Sort of. The Aqualis XT you originally spec'd would not have fitted on the pump adapter but that isn't neccesarily a problem. The 880ml base will fit on the pump but you lose the fill-level sensor. There is a variant of the D5 pump adapter that has a fill-level sensor (and internal and external temp sensor) which would get you what [I'm guessing] you're after.
Alternatively you get an Aqualis XT res which has fill-level sensor, internal temp sensor and external temp sensor header and have the D5 adapter separate.
Nano-coating doesn't seem to be necessary with a colourless coolant - but may prove it's worth with either coloured, pastel or aurora. I believe it's basically a non-stick coating to keep the glass clean.
I had a Phyobia inline temp sensor and it was correct at idle but deviated from the Aquacomputer (and an IR thermometer) as the temperature rose - it over-read. Not sure if this was just a bad sensor or whether they would all be incompatible. I have an Aqualis XT, flow sensor and inline temp sensor and they don't completely agree but are now within about a degree of eachother.
Flowmeter: You don't have one in what you've spec'd so if you want one, you'd need to add it. You can go for the MPS Flow 200 or 400 but I believe you must (for accurate reading) have straight connections in and out - which didn't fit with my loop. The alternative is the High Flow or the High Flow USB. The cheaper of these plugs into the 'Flow' header on an Aquaero but requires a separate cable (3-pin header but larger than a fan). The more expensive USB version can plug in by USB (and be used without an Aquaero) or by Aquabus to an Aquaero. It also has an internal temp sensor and an external temp header. These units do tick slightly as the rotor goes around. Louder as the flow rate goes up. You won't hear this unless you've got a silent build though.
PowerAdjust gives you an additional temp sensor header, and additional fan (or pump) channel up to 30W and can be used without an Aquaero (as basically a single channel unit with no screen). Connects by Aquabus and/or USB.
Aquabus: There are 3-pin cables and 4-pin cables. A 3-pin is supplied with the Aquaero. 4-pin supplies power as well as data. Your pump ought to take power from the power connection to power the pump (at least, you'd hope) but the pump adapter (version with fill-level sensor) or the Aqualis XT require to be powered either by USB (to a motherboard header) or by a 4-pin Aquabus connection. Irritatingly, in order to calibrate a fill-level sensor, you need a USB connection - it cannot be done over the Aquabus connection for some reason. The Aquabus connection is needed if you want the Aquaero to have an independent connection though - for example, if you want the Aquaero to monitor the fill-level and sound an alarm or shut down the PC if the fill-level is below 10% then this would work with just USB if Windows is running and the Aquasuite service is running but if you want it to be independent of software, you need the Aquabus connection.
Multiple Aquabus devices need an Aquabus Y-cable to connect (or familiarity with a soldering item) and you may need to set Aquabus IDs on them via USB first so they don't clash. See earlier posts in this thread for cabling info.
Fans: You can connect one fan/pump to a channel as long as it is less than 30W power. More fans can be connected either by using a PWM hub (for PWM) or splitter cables for 3-pin fans. Most 3-pin splitter cables seem to have all three wires connected to all fans. This doesn't work properly as the tacho (speed signal) cable should only be connected to one fan for a reliable reading - multiple signals on the same wire causes weird speeds to be reported. Usually you do something like one channel for the three fans on your triple rad, one for the two on your double rad and one each for your intake and exhaust fans - obviously adjust for your fan situation.
Hope that helps.
Gareth
