1930s Semi Refurb - Part 9 of ... (Edition: WC)

dlockers

dlockers

dlockers

Caporegime
Joined
21 Jan 2010
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Hi folks, me again - seems I was accidentally suspended from the forum (lols) so had some time over the weekend to leave all the other jobs half finished and start another. Edition, water closet! I had held off of this one due to Part 7 Wall Knock Through clogging up brain cells and one option would mean the WC would be knocked down. Anyways, interest rates has killed that idea - so onto a quick refurb.

1. Super tight hard-lined sink. Spent about 45 seconds trying to get to the water connection.
Kev6pFN.jpeg

2. Used a hammer instead
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3. Toilet was a pain too:
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4. So used a hammer:
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5. Full bore and PTFE because that's how I roll, regardless of modern advice on compression fittings:
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6. First fix:
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Toilet and sink get delivered Tuesday. The radiator will likely stay in place but just get painted. Just trying to work out what concoction of waste fitting pipes I need. Luckily I have a bunch thanks to past endeavours. This worked but was obviously ridiculous:

gpmQ954.jpeg

I think I'll grab one of these:
www.screwfix.com

McAlpine Push-Fit Single Socket Drain Connector Black 110mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Polypropylene drain connector with 'O' seal socket. Finned seal spigot for internal connection to 110mm cast iron, plastic or clay. Ideal for low level connections. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com
(The floor is concrete/it fits into clay).

And then use the Grohe 110 to 90 converter.

OCUK: Should I yolo and drill the 10mm hole in the floor and pray I don't hit any water or clay pipes?
 
Ummmm youve put PTFE tape on the wrong section (the thread). If you do want PTFE tape you put it on the pipe with the olive but personally I just use fernox jointing compound with it.

I would fix that before you go any further.
 
Buffman said:
Ummmm youve put PTFE tape on the wrong section (the thread). If you do want PTFE tape you put it on the pipe with the olive but personally I just use fernox jointing compound with it.

I would fix that before you go any further.
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Went into autopilot from taping up radiator tails lol. It shouldn't need any PTFE anyway so I'll leave it be.
 
PTFE tape on the compression nut threads? You're just trolling with that one :p.

I always put a dab of grease on them. Makes tightening (and the subsequent removal) easier.
 
dLockers said:
Unfortunately it is to hold the toilet --- so not sure I have that option :(!

Maybe I'll do fatter screws but shallower? That's structural engineering right?
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Surely the ones in the floor only stop it from from sliding forwards backwards? Are there other connections further up against the wall?
 
Bug One said:
Surely the ones in the floor only stop it from from sliding forwards backwards? Are there other connections further up against the wall?
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Yeah two into the wall. Wall hung toilets seem a bit black magic to me anyway (big fat ass + 600mm from the wall and made out of crockery, what?) so wasn't going to chance it. If most of the load is elsewhere I'll stick to shallower fittings.

I have ordered a Bosch pipe detector which I have very little faith in so I'll give that a go and boomerang it back to Amazon if its no-good.
 
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Just ct1 it to the floor :D.

I’d just drill and plug… use browns. Yolo. Does the soil pipe go out of the wall after going under ground? Is that an external wall? Is it easy to see or at least deduce where it goes?
 
Mason- said:
Just ct1 it to the floor :D.

I’d just drill and plug… use browns. Yolo. Does the soil pipe go out of the wall after going under ground? Is that an external wall? Is it easy to see or at least deduce where it goes?
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Waste goes straight down, it is the cold feed I am stressing about, as it either goes down, around and over -- or diagonal from corner sink. It looks like it is wrapped as it emerges from the concrete, so it seems they've done it properly --- however the heat from the radiator pipes can be felt beneath the floor in the hall so they can't be all that deep.
 
Masonry bits don't like drilling through metal, go slowly, check regularly
Don't go balls out using an SDS with a cut through anything bit in it ;)

Although whilst said in jest I agree with the CT1 (or even just decent silicon) we refer to it as a sealant in to the UK but a good chunk of the world refer to it as an adhesive.
I would argue its at minimum as restrictive to movement as a couple of decent screws in brown plugs based on my bathroom and trying to get the sink off the wall last year.
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Masonry bits don't like drilling through metal, go slowly, check regularly
Don't go balls out using an SDS with a cut through anything bit in it ;)

Although whilst said in jest I agree with the CT1 (or even just decent silicon) we refer to it as a sealant in to the UK but a good chunk of the world refer to it as an adhesive.
I would argue its at minimum as restrictive to movement as a couple of decent screws in brown plugs based on my bathroom and trying to get the sink off the wall last year.
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Stixall is my alternative to CT1, but around half the price. I'd agree that that the bottom would be fine stuck to the floor, the main fixing point for the frame is on the wall
 
I can definitely get away with one big ass bolt on the left hand side; so maybe I'll CT1 + one big bolt, and then decide how lucky I am feeling on the right hand side fixing.
 
The problem with CT1 is that if you need to get that toilet up for any reason, you need to get a blade under to cut the CT1. If you fix toilet, then do flooring you won’t be able to cut the CT1 without lifting your flooring. Obviously with just bolts you could.

I have no doubt CT1 would probably hold it better than the screws. It’s just a maintainability factor that goes out the window.

Just food for thought, you’d have to be much more destructive if you ever needed to remove the bowl.
 
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Mason- said:
The problem with CT1 is that if you need to get that toilet up for any reason, you need to get a blade under to cut the CT1. If you fix toilet, then do flooring you won’t be able to cut the CT1 without lifting your flooring. Obviously with just bolts you could.

I have no doubt CT1 would probably hold it better than the screws. It’s just a maintainability factor that goes out the window.

Just food for thought, you’d have to be much more destructive if you ever needed to remove the bowl.
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We are just talking the frame here - not the toilet bowl itself. I hear you though.
 
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