Sorry! Thought you were talking about bolting the pan to the floor. Yeah I would have no worries with CT1'ing the frame to the wall or floor. Would be fine.
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1930s Semi Refurb - Part 9 of ... (Edition: WC)
- Thread starter dlockers
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 4 Aug 2007
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- 21,990
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- Wilds of suffolk
its buried treasure, get ready to do your gold dance!
Oooo matron.
Soldato
- Joined
- 4 Aug 2007
- Posts
- 21,990
- Location
- Wilds of suffolk
Right, can confirm the McAlpine adapter was spot on for the clay pipe. This gave me a 110mm fitting and the Grohe included a 110mm to 90mm adaptor. Glorious.
n.b. the wetness around the cold feed is causing me some concern. I'm about 60% certain its just residual moisture from when I put the compression fitting on; and the compression fitting down is 100% dry. When I drilled the sole plate it seemed a bit....moist...about 2 inches down. I'm not about to start tearing concrete up so will keep an eye on it as the 'boxing in' won't be a fully permanent solution anyway (mdf cupboard).
@ci_newman to the rescue as I still haven't patriated my socket set from home-home to where I live. This worked great for the sole plate bolts.
I did add a 3rd bolt in to the floor - and then was going spare trying to find some decent wood screws to attach the frame with. I ended up recovering 4 flat head (lol) screws that were super chunky and did the job perfectly. I then put in 2 pozis with some washers which is over kill.
Solid as a rock.
n.b. the wetness around the cold feed is causing me some concern. I'm about 60% certain its just residual moisture from when I put the compression fitting on; and the compression fitting down is 100% dry. When I drilled the sole plate it seemed a bit....moist...about 2 inches down. I'm not about to start tearing concrete up so will keep an eye on it as the 'boxing in' won't be a fully permanent solution anyway (mdf cupboard).
@ci_newman to the rescue as I still haven't patriated my socket set from home-home to where I live. This worked great for the sole plate bolts.
I did add a 3rd bolt in to the floor - and then was going spare trying to find some decent wood screws to attach the frame with. I ended up recovering 4 flat head (lol) screws that were super chunky and did the job perfectly. I then put in 2 pozis with some washers which is over kill.
Solid as a rock.
Yeah I went Torx Pozi (someone on here recommended) for the floor. I just needed 4 chunky boys for this though and couldn't spot any so ended up with decades old flat heads I must have rescued. Seems to work!
Right, tried to tackle the plumbing but
1) don't like the idea of plastic in compression (probably fine)
2) can't remember whether the gear I have is hep2o or JG SpeedFit
3) the Grohe toilet is expecting a tap connector rather than a compression fitting I think.
Token insert picture:
I was desperate to get this out of 1 cut of MDF and then use the inner bit as the cupboard door, given it'd be a precise fit.
Unfortunately physics (geometry?) got in the way and a full board wouldn't fit through the door, so I chopped it and test fitted it.
And the top bit:
All good, just need to have a think about the fittings for the Grohe adaptor and what bits I need to grab from Wickes/SF/TS.
Annoyingly I forgot the track saw works "up to" the line and not "on the line" depending on which way you cut, so I am 5mm less tight than I wanted to be; but nothing some caulk won't fix.
Edit: I've just PVA'ed all the edges of the MDF for some kind of minor insurance policy if it gets wet.
1) don't like the idea of plastic in compression (probably fine)
2) can't remember whether the gear I have is hep2o or JG SpeedFit
3) the Grohe toilet is expecting a tap connector rather than a compression fitting I think.
Token insert picture:
I was desperate to get this out of 1 cut of MDF and then use the inner bit as the cupboard door, given it'd be a precise fit.
Unfortunately physics (geometry?) got in the way and a full board wouldn't fit through the door, so I chopped it and test fitted it.
And the top bit:
All good, just need to have a think about the fittings for the Grohe adaptor and what bits I need to grab from Wickes/SF/TS.
Annoyingly I forgot the track saw works "up to" the line and not "on the line" depending on which way you cut, so I am 5mm less tight than I wanted to be; but nothing some caulk won't fix.
Edit: I've just PVA'ed all the edges of the MDF for some kind of minor insurance policy if it gets wet.
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For the inlet on the grohe cistern I used one of these
www.screwfix.com
Flomasta Twistloc Plastic Push-Fit Angled Tap Connector 15mm x 1/2" - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. One-step, fully demountable and reusable. Combining push-fit and twist-locking technology to offer a secure, leak-free joint which incorporates pressure and combination systems. Suitable for plumbing, local / home hot water supply and central heating systems. Highly...
Thanks for this - it expedited my thinking on the tap connector. I went Hep2o and swapped out the compression fitting that was giving me grief, too:For the inlet on the grohe cistern I used one of these
Flomasta Twistloc Plastic Push-Fit Angled Tap Connector 15mm x 1/2" - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. One-step, fully demountable and reusable. Combining push-fit and twist-locking technology to offer a secure, leak-free joint which incorporates pressure and combination systems. Suitable for plumbing, local / home hot water supply and central heating systems. Highly...
Toilet bolted and plumbed, working great.
Have since decided to leave a shelf space, and then a cupboard - so watch this space!
Beautiful toilet accessories.
Constipated? Dig it out with a 3 inch screw, deep thread for extra grip
Burned your knee on the radiator while taking a dump? Pour a beer over the burn.
Don't want to spend time cleaning the skids off with the toilet brush? Squirt of fairy liquid and another flush will get (most of) it off.
The tape measure? Hmmm...
Constipated? Dig it out with a 3 inch screw, deep thread for extra grip
Burned your knee on the radiator while taking a dump? Pour a beer over the burn.
Don't want to spend time cleaning the skids off with the toilet brush? Squirt of fairy liquid and another flush will get (most of) it off.
The tape measure? Hmmm...
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Went downstairs this morning and the WC stinks of sewage. No visible issues on plumbing or waste connection....FFS...
It has been smell free with no toilet/open waste pipe for 5 days now...super odd.
Edit: maybe a side effect of not having any flushing going on for a while and the caked on stuff has been activated?
It has been smell free with no toilet/open waste pipe for 5 days now...super odd.
Edit: maybe a side effect of not having any flushing going on for a while and the caked on stuff has been activated?
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Soldato
- Joined
- 4 Aug 2007
- Posts
- 21,990
- Location
- Wilds of suffolk
Could have been a gas build up in the pipes and now you have flushed it its released back
Is the pan full of water? Or has it dropped at all.
Did you use the old loo or was it in effect out of action
Used it lots as the one upstairs is pretty broken (lols at my priorities). Pan was full, flush is great. I haven't christened it yet but am guessing it was gas build up. It's on its own branch of the poo pipe so it would have gone dry for the first time in 30 odd years.
Soldato
- Joined
- 2 May 2011
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- 12,137
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- Woking
And how's the stench?
- Joined
- 14 Jun 2004
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- 17,508
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- Newcastle U/T
Unfortunately it is to hold the toilet --- so not sure I have that option!
Maybe I'll do fatter screws but shallower? That's structural engineering right?
Adhesive?
CT1 to the rescue!