Advice for DIY install of bathroom and waterproofing walls - can I tile a dot and dabbed wall?

Simon said:
No need. Screwing it down stops the decoupling too
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Aye seems to be ok to do it that way.

As Ive got no washers, a bag of tile adhesive and more importantly loads of pipes in the floor I think I'll just tile adhesive it down. Online seems to suggest:

14. How do I fix Marmox to wooden floors?
If the floor is sound and level, Marmox boards can be mechanically fixed using screws With large heads, or washers under the head, to enable the screws to ‘bite down’ into the Marmox board. If the flooring is uneven, the floor should be levelled using plywood first, before fixing the Marmox to the floor.


15. What adhesive should I use to fix Marmox?
It is recommended that a flexible cementitious floor tile adhesive be used. Solvent-based adhesives must NOT be used as these could cause damage to the Marmox boards.
 
Simon said:
How does it decouple if it’s fixed from the top side.

I did kitchen on concrete with just adhesive and no issues
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I believe the primary reason for a decoupling membrane is to take up any long term/short term deviation in the substrate material (e.g. Chipboard expanding /contracting seasonally)
 
Arsonist said:
New house so various other jobs needed doing too (e.g replacing my entire porch roof, sofits,fascias and guttering), also )...
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Hah mines not going quick but I'm also renovating the rest of my house whilst doing this. I've put myself on a "go slow" for this one whilst I wait for tilers availability.

Taped up the tray and put some sealant in the holes, just need to finish taping the rest of the board lines and fit the bath.

I think i might put a few more spankers in a couple boards that are dot and dabbed as there's a bit of flex in the board.


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Participant said:
I found exactly the same, i.e. dot and dab method left too much flex in the board.

Not sure if I applied the adhesive too thickly but I ended up putting dozens more screws into the boards as I was worried about board flex and tiles cracking.
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Glad I'm not. The only one! Probably part my fault for buying 10mm boards

Simon said:
The dabs need to be behind the spankers though
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Aye but they say use 5 spankers per board but theres flex between the spankers. I'll just put a few more in. Should be OK for a tiler to tile over.
 
More tape in! Does anything need to be put on top of tape or can it be adhesive straight on top of this? I believe it can be straight on top but saw a YouTube video of them painting a "tanking" compound on top but I presume that's due to it being plasterboard

Also is there any value to tape behind the mixer bar pipework? I've seen it before and could neaten it up but doesn't seem to be of value?


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Bug One said:
Don't know if it's the light, but some of those spankers look like they're sticking out quite a bit. I'd have thought they'd be better flush.
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I think it's the light casting a shadow on them. They're banged in as far as they will go. To be honest yes it's going to need a decent sized trowel to get over them :cry:
 
Installed bath

Asked on a bathroom fitters forum and got a lot of judgement for not fitting battons :(:eek:

The feet are (mostly) either directly on joists or adjacent to joists

There is a steel fixing to the wall to be fitted to tie it to wall. I'm tempted to do this and just CT1 it to wall (and then waterproof tape)

I don't think I can actually fit a Batton in along the wall of the taps and fit the tap connectons

Its this bath below and only 1400 long (only for if i have kids+ dog)
https://puracast.co.uk/product/pbbqse14x7/


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Had a small leak here but only when the overflow going full blast. I've applied some OB1 sealant and tightened it up

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200sols said:
Is that a new fitting? Trust me applying a sealant to stop a leak is a bodge that will fail with time.
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Aye its a mcalpine bath waste so fairly good one. I emptied a full bath and was leak free so just the overflow element seemed to come back "up" through the waste trap when it was all completely full.

I also tightened it up further as I applied the sealant.

Any thoughts on fitting battens? Necessary? I'd rather not have to remove it all... :eek:

Just thinking out loud, it's max capacity is 130l, plus say a fat man at 150kg (of which would displace most water) that's only 280kg. I figure 60kg across some m12 bolts in compression should be fine
 
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ANDARIAL said:
Battens definitely!
While i was not a plumber before i retired i ALWAYS ended up cutting 4x1 or similar for the plumber to put under the legs.ALL of them inc the middle one
i.e. a length of timber about the width of the bath,from wall to just beyond the outer leg.Spreads the weight and makes sure in the future a leg wont go through the floor with a fatty plus water:D
And if you end up refitting i recommend putting a batten under the bath rim to the wall,both long and short sides if possible
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looks like you can wind up the feet/legs and slip a batten/timber under if you really do not want to take out bath
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The legs are directly onto joists thus why I haven't bothered to do that (I.e. Chipboard but directly above joists as I've measured positions)

Sounds like I'll be taking it out tonight to fit battens then:eek:. I wish the supplier indicated that was worthwhile in instructions..
 
Reckon I'm good to go for tiling from this point @200sols ? Got my tiler coming early june

I ended up putting a baton behind the bath.


I haven't tanked ontop of the backer boards and waterproof tape. I believe that's unnecessary?


Should I prime the one wall of plasterboard or let the tiler do it? Suppose I've got some left over so could do it.

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Realised that my plasterer managed to put screws through my niche also (had other side plastered) fortunately not tiled yet!!!
 
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Tiler has started

He pointed out the tiles are ceramic not porcelain, don't think it matters (from porcelenosa and feel fairly high spec).

Think he did have to use a lot of adhesive to make up for the undulations in the boards (my fault!)

Rest of it is going to be white with this as a black feature wall.

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Participant said:
Professionals use them too, with good reason being that it's impossible no matter how good you are to get less lippage without a levelling system than with, all other things being equal.

You cannot eliminate lippage without them and they cost nothing, so what's the advantage to not using them?

The notion that professionals don't use or need levelling clips is just wrong.
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As far as I'm aware pros tend to not use them again as not necessary and add extra time (and maybe cost? I think primary issue is time) . Every tile is back buttered and wall done with tile adhesive.

Doesn't seem to be any lipping problems anyways!

I need to do a smaller toilet downstairs DIY once this one is done, are there any clips youd recommend as I'll use them. Cheers.
 
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Just need to clean the grout /marks off but looks neat/pleased overall!

Shower and screen etc going in next week from the plumber, I'm going to sort the units out.

Tiler said hes had problems with those clips before, as you can end up with voids behind the tiles and the overall wall might go out of level (but each joint might be straight)

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Also another utility room he finished
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