Another model finished.

Somehow missed your Lanc over at ARC Skii :o looks great though! Those cars are awesome too, love the two Skylines :D

Skii, do you mind me askin how you get the panel lines to stand out like that?

I know about this idea of using a thinned out paint wash and all that, but i do worry about how it will turn out - I always use Humbrol enamels and humbrol matt/gloss coats, and I wonder how using cellulose thinners and a wash would react with these. I'm sure there are probably better paints out there, but getting hold of them locally is the problem, as is applying them (I've yet to use an airbrush on a model).

I always get paranoid about ruining a good paint finish :( and tend not to bother, I just do a bit of dirtying up with a HB pencil and my fingers which looks 'okay' for light dirt smearing but is no use at all for panel lines. If you could tell us what paints you use, what oils/paints you use for the wash, and what sort of dilution, that would be really helpful!

Also, if I can pick your brains further :p what tool do you use to rescribe panel lines?

:)
 
Last edited:
Will said:
Somehow missed your Lanc over at ARC Skii :o looks great though! Those cars are awesome too, love the two Skylines :D

Skii, do you mind me askin how you get the panel lines to stand out like that?

I know about this idea of using a thinned out paint wash and all that, but i do worry about how it will turn out - I always use Humbrol enamels and humbrol matt/gloss coats, and I wonder how using cellulose thinners and a wash would react with these.

I always get paranoid about ruining a good paint finish :( and tend not to bother, I just do a bit of dirtying up with a HB pencil and my fingers which looks 'okay' for light dirt smearing but is no use at all for panel lines. If you could tell us what paints you use, what oils/paints you use for the wash, and what sort of dilution, that would be really helpful!
Click to expand...

Will - the panel lines are post shaded - where you spray a darker shade along them, and then I use an oil wash (oil paint mixed with thinners).

The secret to a wash is the protective coat. When you finish your basic paint job, you completely coat the model in a protective shell which keeps the oil wash from staining the paintjob - the best technique by far is to spray (or brush) a coat of Johnsons floor polish (klear) onto the model, this gives it a glossy appearance. The oil wash will now flow along panel lines without affecting the paint, and the added bonus being you can simply wipe any mistake away without affecting the paint underneath. The gloss coat also is the best surface to apply decals to. When you get tho the final stages you can simply spray a matt coat on to restore the matt paintjob.

iv-tecman - I love that Nissan Skyline R33 - really nicely done !

John
 
It takes me a while to put a kit together as I work full time, and I only have so many hours free each week. I think the average time for me to build a single kit is around 150 hours. I tend to have more then one on the go at any one time, as one is drying or setting I’m off doing something else.

As for the person who asked about panel line washing. This is tricky, and can take some practice. I tend to use inks, as acrylic inks such as Winsor and Newton from any artist shop can be used.

You basically thin the ink with water, and use a .03 or finer soft needle tipped brush and apply the ink into the line. The ink then flows along the line, and “should” run straight, and look deep and natural. All my models have inks applied around the recesses and panel lines. Skii has done some wonderful panel washes on his tornado. It looks very natural, and not overdone at all. A good example of how it should be done.

Pastels can also be used to weather models, and cleared with Johnson’s floor wax. One coat of floor wax will give a protection bond, whereas about 7 coats will result in a nice shine such as the Subaru I’ve posted.

I’ve got no planes or tanks; perhaps the OP has built a few. I’ve got a few warships ready to be built.
 
Skii said:
Will - the panel lines are post shaded - where you spray a darker shade along them, and then I use an oil wash (oil paint mixed with thinners).

The secret to a wash is the protective coat. When you finish your basic paint job, you completely coat the model in a protective shell which keeps the oil wash from staining the paintjob - the best technique by far is to spray (or brush) a coat of Johnsons floor polish (klear) onto the model, this gives it a glossy appearance. The oil wash will now flow along panel lines without affecting the paint, and the added bonus being you can simply wipe any mistake away without affecting the paint underneath. The gloss coat also is the best surface to apply decals to. When you get tho the final stages you can simply spray a matt coat on to restore the matt paintjob.

iv-tecman - I love that Nissan Skyline R33 - really nicely done !

John
Click to expand...

Ah, posted at the same time, and good point about the protection coat. Washes work best on clear or glossy coats.

and thanks for the comment. The R33 is the one I got offered a few hundred quid for, but I couldn't selll it.. :p
 
I think i need to learn how to use my airbrush. :p

They look amazing, if only my rc cars/planes could look like that.
 
Skii said:
a coat of Johnsons floor polish (klear) onto the model, this gives it a glossy appearance.
John
Click to expand...

Skii and tecman, is this Johnsons stuff what the yanks call 'future'? Where do you buy it from?
 
iv-tecman
can i send my latest loco round for a paint been at it now for nearly 2 years with another year to go ;)

pic in the sig

all scratch built in 5 inch gauge ( 1 inch to the foot ) wieght about 120 llb live steam coal fired , i have just the plate work to go all the cleading is done
 
Pieman, nicely done... Good detail work.

As for airbrushing a loco.. Hmmm.. Not had that request before. I airbrushed a crash helmet once, he made his own stencil but couldn't use an airbrush, so I did it for him..

But I'm not as good an airbrush artist as some. I've been airbrushing models for a while now, and first used an airbrush nearly 15years ago. Man, I feel old now. But I've seen some wild airbrush work, you think me and skii have done good work, well skii certainly has but some of the works I’ve seen at shows. As your jaw hits the floor, you then start to wonder why you had bothered to turn up.

Actually, car model builders are given a little slack, but military builders are VERY precise. Everything has to be "just" perfect. Many military builders have a very keen eye for detail.
 
you think they are bad with a loco, people wil count the rivets my GWR 14xx will have approx 1500 1/32 rivets all done properly some loco tenders have over 3000 in them


we spend all the time to build then the firsy thing we do is set in on fire smoke and soot

infact we use a small spray gun as the first coat is acid etch primer not good for a air brush

when its done i will post some pics
 
Cool, other model makers on this site!

I've been building model tanks for the past year and aircraft for the past 15!

The best internet modeling forums are at http://www.finescale.com/FSM/CS/forums/

The best on-line UK model shop is Hannants, they are Europes biggest supplier and stock most after market stuff.

Some of my models:
http://caleodels.fotopic.net/c662735.html

My only photographed car.
Sauber_1.jpg


John
 
saddler said:
Cool, other model makers on this site!

I've been building model tanks for the past year and aircraft for the past 15!

The best internet modeling forums are at http://www.finescale.com/FSM/CS/forums/

The best on-line UK model shop is Hannants, they are Europes biggest supplier and stock most after market stuff.

Some of my models:
http://caleodels.fotopic.net/c662735.html

My only photographed car.
Sauber_1.jpg


John
Click to expand...

I've been using Hannants meself for years now, Started building aircraft in about 1984, and exhibiting for about the same amount of time. I'm wondering how many ppl here have been to the IPMS national exhibition, or some of the lesser ones, hornchurch was always a good one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom