Another spec my build £1200

Associate
Joined
27 Jan 2018
Posts
32
Hi

So wanting to get back into pc gaming after about 7 years. Now I built my old pc with help from a friend so I have a basic understanding of how to put it together. That with the wonderful thing that is YouTube I'm pretty confident about doing it again. Now there is nothing left from my old build it got thrown out when I moved house.

I'm going to need everything again apart from a headset. So I've been doing some research over the last couple of weeks and this is what I've come up with. Any advice would be great.

- Amd ryzen 5 2600 3.4ghz
- MSI radeon rx vega 56
- MSI B450 gaming plus
- 750w gigabyte 80 plus gold hybrid modular
- corsair vengeance 2x 8G 3000mhz
- WD Blue 500gb ssd
- Asus 1300 pci wireless adapter
- phanteks p400 midi tower

- AOC C24G1 24 inch Monitor 144hz 1920x1080 Freesync.
- Steelseries mouse and keyboard

All comes in at £1128. There some other little bits in there I.e mouse mat, HDMI cable and a usb stick for Windows. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Have you thought about a CPU cooler? i believe the stock one that comes with the 2600 is decent for starting off with but if you are planning on overclocking or having long gaming sessions then it may be worth upgrading to something better.
 
The monitor supports AMD FreeSync (via Adaptive-Sync) over both DP and HDMI on compatible GPUs and systems. The 144Hz refresh rate is supported via DP and HDMI on both AMD and Nvidia GPUs. Standard accessories include an HDMI and power cable.

https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/aoc-c24g1/


Have a look at the Antec Earthwatts Gold and Antec HCG Gold power supplies which are currently on offer at OcUK. They have more warranty than the Gigabyte (5 v 7 and 10, respectively). 650W or 750W would be fine. The HCG Gold are based on same platform as Seasonic Focus Plus and built by Seasonic, and they are £20 cheaper than the Focus Plus right now.

The motherboard is Micro-ATX and the case is ATX. You could go for an ATX mobo like the Tomahawk, and since you're fitting a PCI wireless adapter there'll be more room for thicker GPUs in future than with Micro-ATX (especially as the Gaming Plus forgoes a PCI location at the top). And then, once at Tomahawk+wireless adapter cost, could just consider the B450 Carbon Pro since it comes with wireless already. There are several Asus 1300 PCI wireless adapter models so it depends on the price of the one you were looking at.

If you get the 2600X it comes with a better cooler than the 2600 does.
 
- AOC C24G1 24 inch Monitor 144hz 1920x1080 Freesync.
first of all, i wouldn't recommend any VA panel for fast-paced gaming. simply not designed for it (especially the cheaper panels).
Either get a TN panel, or at worst, an IPS one.

Quote from the review @Danny75 of the monitor (highlighted for effect):
Increasing graphics settings further and therefore putting more strain on frame rate resulted in some dips significantly below 144fps. The dips to around 100fps, for example, could be noticed with or without FreeSync active. There was a significant increase in perceived blur and a worsening ‘connected feel’ regardless of the technology. Having said that, it was much more pleasant having the technology enabled than not as the obvious tearing and stuttering without was not something we enjoyed. As the graphics on this game were really maximised (by increasing the ‘resolution scale’ or rendering resolution for the game), the frame rate dipped further so that triple digits were a distant memory. This was very obvious to us in terms of a significant loss of ‘connected feel’ and a huge increase in perceived blur. But the lack of tearing and stuttering from frame rate and refresh rate mismatches was very pleasant, with FreeSync active. Individual sensitivity to tearing and stuttering and indeed the effects of decreased frame rate vary, but at these relatively low frame rates the stuttering becomes much easier to notice.

Another important point to note when it comes to FreeSync is that the pixel overdrive is often not optimised very well for lower frame rates and refresh rates. Fortunately, the ‘Medium’ setting on this monitor provided a good experience in this respect even as frame rate dropped significantly. There was a bit of overshoot that became visible as frame rate dropped, especially below 80fps, but nothing particularly noteworthy. The ‘Strong’ setting gave extreme overshoot at these lower frame rates, though, and is only really something we see of practical use at much higher frame rates (ideally > 100fps). If the frame rate alone dips and the refresh rate remains at a static 144Hz, because you’re not using FreeSync, these weaknesses aren’t as apparent. With the stuttering and tearing taken out of the equation, overshoot can really stand out if things aren’t nicely optimised and FreeSync is enabled.
 
I haven't looked at getting a different cpu cooler. The ryzen 5 is the standard 2600 if the cpu starts running too hot I will look at a new cooler down the line.

I didn't know that the msi b450 pro carbon comes with Wi-Fi so thanks for that. Is the built in wifi good enough to play games online as the router will be downstairs and the computer in one of the spare bedrooms? I've looked at the antec power supply and the earhwatts gold is the same price as the other one i was looking at so I will go with your suggestion. @Danny75
 
@Shasell

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £1,240.73 (includes shipping: £20.82)

it's not overbudget as you can get the cpu for £25 cheaper and the ram (part number: CMK16GX4M2D3000C16) for £15 cheaper elsewhere - so that's the £40. a quick google should show you where (and has free shipping too - both from the same place)
for the rest of the parts, ocuk are pretty price competitive and i suggest just getting the rest as is.

so just a base spec 2600 - can get an aftermarket cpu cooler later down the line if you need.
as mentioned, b450 carbon ac is the board to get, and has integrated wi-fi
with a bit of juggling, can get a 2070 into the build, which will run rings around a vega 56
better monitor - note there are 2 versions (both the same price) FX and PX - you want the PX version as it comes with a more ergonomic stand.
cheap, but very good value kb/mouse combo
with respect to the windows key, i suggest you also google how to get cheaper keys :)
 
Last edited:
@tamzzy Any recommendations? VA, TN, IPS means nothing to me lol.

I'm not a VA fan either, so would either go TN for pure competitiveness and smoothness, or IPS for the viewing angles and colour consistency. It can be subjective but it's interesting that the reviewer highlighted the issues (I only clicked it to find accessories so you wouldn't need to bother with HDMI cable, so kudos to Tamzzy for reading it all).
 
so kudos to Tamzzy for reading it all).
i didn't really read it all lol.
having owned a VA panel i know what it's like - and any good reviewer worth their salt will mention the poor pixel response - and pcmonitors is a very good review site (i think he's also a forum regular here)
so it was a matter of scrolling to the "responsiveness" section and ctrl-c ctrl-v :P
 
review: https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/aoc-g2590px/

For monitors like this, much of their appeal comes from their responsiveness. In that respect the monitor performed quite well, but not perfectly. There was very little input lag to speak of and, overall, pixel responses were very snappy. It had the sort of look and feel we’d expect from a highly responsive 144Hz TN model. There were some weaknesses in pixel responsiveness, but they were pretty minor. A little but of overshoot and trailing in places – but we stress the little, it’s not something we feel most users would notice. AMD FreeSync also worked well on this model, with a full range of 30 – 144Hz (plus LFC) supported. As usual low frame rates remained low frame rates regardless of the technology, but the lack of tearing and stuttering from frame rate and refresh rate mismatches was something we always welcomed. One element we were less welcoming of was the ‘interlace pattern artifacts’. We found these quite obvious at 144Hz and increasingly obvious at lower refresh rates, particularly around or below 60Hz. This is significant when using FreeSync, because reduced frame rates drag down the refresh rate as well and introduce these more noticeable interlace patterns. We should stress that individual sensitivity to these varies and they are common, in some form, on most high refresh rate monitors and some 60Hz monitors as well. Still, we would have much preferred that they weren’t there in the first place and found this manifestation of them quite obvious.

Another interesting (but potentially annoying) quirk with this monitor is that the pixel response behaviour is slightly better with a ‘Game Mode’ active. We were able to set the monitor up in a perfectly satisfactory way by using one of the custom game mode settings. But you have to remember that individual units vary and this level of tweaking can put some users off. Furthermore, the fact that you never have access to the colour channels with a ‘Game Mode’ active could prove problematic on some units or according to some user preferences. You need to rely on ‘LowBlue Mode’ settings if you wish to adjust the white point, but the steps there are quite dramatic and you have no control over the green channel. Overall, then, the monitor delivers an experience with a few bonuses compared to the sea of models using the older AUO panel. But there are a few niggles as well, which users will have to weigh up for themselves. If they are deemed only minor annoyances or not at all problematic, then this model is worth careful consideration.

The bottom line; a highly responsive monitor with respectable image quality, a step above models using ‘the older panel’ in some respects. But some minor niggles to go with it – because no monitor is perfect.
 
Is the built in wifi good enough

Yes, definitely. Good enough to play online in your particular house nobody can say for sure due to all the interference factors that can come into play. But yeah probably. That said, if paying games online wireless should only be last resort. There are alternatives to look into, such as Powerline adapters. It's said that if the house (and therefore wiring) isn't too old (about 30 years), it should be fine.
 
@tamzzy thanks for the ideas on that build. I know it's subjective but do you think I will notice a massive difference between the gtx 2070 and the rtx 1070 there is pretty much £100 difference
 
gtx 1070 and the rtx 1070
gtx 1070 is old tech and around gtx 1660ti performance. so not even worth considering. slower than the vega56.

there is no rtx 1070 - so i'm assuming you mean the rtx 2070 that i've specced.
2070 is about 30-40% faster than the 1070
 
itx style


ODE
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £1,074.05 (includes shipping: £13.20)

https://bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cases/metallicgear-neo-g-mini-review/1/

£70 for the case

1440p 75hz monitor . save your self some cash on Tamzzy list . RTX 2070 is a bottle neck for ryzen at 1080p , unless you upscale to 1440p , which isn't the best on a 24/5" screen .
drop to RTX 2060 and will still give you 100 fps on that 1080p monitor :)

screens outlast GPUs by a factor of 3 normally. solution to RTX 2070 being more powerful then ryzen 2600/2700 is to slap in Ryzen 3000/4000 next year to gain back FPS you've paid for but aren't seeing . or go to a larger resolution
 
I don't know know if I can justify dropping £419 on the rtx 2070....
depends on whichever way you want to spin it, of course.
for a £1000 build (not inc peripherals)- as i've shown, the best performing card you can get into that build is a 2070.
of course the vega 56 is the better value card, but it's also 20% slower than the 2070.

just depends on what you want to get out of your money.
if you want the best performing system that you can afford - 2070
if you want the best value card whilst staying under the budget - vega56
 
Back
Top Bottom