Aorus Owner's Lounge

[willhub]

which game you're running with? it looks a little bit high however it may vary while running different type of game
also, if you make the repaste, do remember to paste as less grease as possible - make it looks like a super-skinny paper covered on the die

I researched into applying thermal paste and generally it's thought more is better than less as it just all gets pushed out which indeed looks the case, I think the cooling solution needs replacing wonder if they have some spare ones in Burnley?

At 4.2GHz cities skylines it's at 88 degrees, but benchmarks it hits 99 instantly like prime 95.

Even at 2.9GHz -0.170mv it still hits 70 degrees, 50 idle. Weirdly it'll crash yet -0.150 works for 4.0GHz.

 

[FloppyPoppy]

I researched into applying thermal paste and generally it's thought more is better than less as it just all gets pushed out which indeed looks the case, I think the cooling solution needs replacing wonder if they have some spare ones in Burnley?

At 4.2GHz cities skylines it's at 88 degrees, but benchmarks it hits 99 instantly like prime 95.

Even at 2.9GHz -0.170mv it still hits 70 degrees, 50 idle. Weirdly it'll crash yet -0.150 works for 4.0GHz.

Don't use p95. It's not realistic in anyway. Test temps playing games, video editing ect. They will throw real heavy loads at it. P95 just cooks cpus for no reason.

With laptops you want the thinnest application of paste possible. Their coolers are always milled to a much finer tolerance due to the lack of IHS. This is why liquid metal is a great option for laptops. 88c under gaming load doesn't seem unreasonable at all.

 

[willhub]

Well I won't get any thinner anymore because I had to Dremmel grooves in the screws to get the HSF on tight enough, did lower temps a bit but one screw head snapped off so can't remove the screws.

 

[Xemnes]

ive considered liquid metal, but im afraid of messing it up. im confident in doing it but theres always that small chance something goes wrong. also, ive heard liquid metal eats the heatsink over time, even if its copper.

 

[FloppyPoppy]

ive considered liquid metal, but im afraid of messing it up. im confident in doing it but theres always that small chance something goes wrong. also, ive heard liquid metal eats the heatsink over time, even if its copper.

It doesn't eat it, it patinas it. So does normal paste.

 

[Xemnes]

well it amalgamates with the metal, from videos and pictures ive seen online, the stains are far worse than any ceramic thermal paste.

 

[FloppyPoppy]

well it amalgamates with the metal, from videos and pictures ive seen online, the stains are far worse than any ceramic thermal paste.

Yes a stain, hence my use of patina. It absolutely isn't an issue on any material other than aluminium. Unless you want the part of your cpu cooler that you can't see to be slightly less stained that it would normally be.

 

[Xemnes]

hmm i will take that into consideration then, assuming the cold plate is definitelly copper and not aluminium plated in copper.
still worried about the application and potentially frying the pcb though
also worried about the fact theres no heat spreader over the cpu so liquid metal could potentially spill out onto nearby parts when travelling.

 

[FloppyPoppy]

hmm i will take that into consideration then, assuming the cold plate is definitelly copper and not aluminium plated in copper.
still worried about the application and potentially frying the pcb though
also worried about the fact theres no heat spreader over the cpu so liquid metal could potentially spill out onto nearby parts when travelling.

A thin layer of conformal coating around the dye and then cover it with a really thin electrical tape

 

[Xemnes]

A thin layer of conformal coating around the dye and then cover it with a really thin electrical tape

yeah i looked that up when i was doing research. but what about all the other components?
lets say my laptop is upright in my bag, i knock my bag and some of the liquid metal happens to escape and fall anywhere on the motherboard? after all, there still is a gap between the pcb and the cold plate.

also, what conformal coating should be used? id rather prefer one thats easily removed by alcohol or peelable. i dont want to have to do any scraping.

 

[FloppyPoppy]

yeah i looked that up when i was doing research. but what about all the other components?
lets say my laptop is upright in my bag, i knock my bag and some of the liquid metal happens to escape and fall anywhere on the motherboard? after all, there still is a gap between the pcb and the cold plate.

Hi Xemnes. i understand what you are thinking about with the liquid metal being ejected around the laptop. Before i answer that i will give you an idea of my routine with my LM cooled laptop; the laptop is put into a sleeve and put into a backpack it barley fits into, it is then transported to work by car over a lot of speed bumps, or when i am traveling to uni it is in my bag as i walk for 30 minutes followed by a train journey and another 30 minute walk. So it's being bumped around for a fair amount of time each week and i have never had any LM issues on any of my laptops that have undergone this or similar routines.

Onto why i don't think this is actually an issue. Liquid metal is a funny material and has a very very high surface tension making it stay put even suspended fighting against gravity(see image in spoiler, as you can see the LM is staying at the top of the tube despite the gravitational pull on the material in the tube)

Spoiler

Despite the surface tension of LM lowering as it heats, it doesn't lower to the point of being water like so i would say so long as you are careful to not put far to much on then there is no way once the cooler is on that the LM is going to come out. The conformal coating and electrical tape are just first and second lines of defense from users putting to much on and having it ooze out over the sides.

also, what conformal coating should be used? id rather prefer one thats easily removed by alcohol or peelable. i dont want to have to do any scraping.

I personally use MG chemicals acrylic conformal coating. Though you would need a stripping agent to remove it. I use this as i trust it and have used it for projects for many years now. I treat it like LM when applying it you don't want to put too much on as it will insulate the heat and in cases i have seen cause over heating of components due to massive overuse. I won't really speak for others as i haven't personally used them.

 

[Xemnes]

hmm right ok, thanks for the info. so the trick is to apply a layer of liquid metal as thin as humanly possible. as for the conformal coating, its just a precaution if i ever need to send the laptop off for repair (im unsure how mendit handles machines that have been repasted with liquid metal that are still under warranty). i would most likely need to remove it all and apply a ceramic paste.

 

[FloppyPoppy]

Exactly, the conformal coating is there in case some liquid metal happens to ooze out over the edges and also manage to get beneath the electrical tape.

im unsure how mendit handles machines that have been repasted with liquid metal that are still under warranty

This i can't answer. I have never used mendit but i know Aorus have been pretty good to me surrounding not voiding warranty for simple things like ssd swaps/ram upgrades ect. I would suggest asking one of the vendor reps in here about specifics surrounding LM.

 

[Xemnes]

alright, im sure either @Atom80 or @baloney will read what has been said and can give some insight.
ive used mendit before as its aorus' go-to repair service for the uk, although ive had to send it back a few times because they messed something up during a repair, their customer service is decent and even sent me an aorus mouse for free as an apology for messing be about with less than satisfactory repairs. mendit seems to be fine with replacement of removable parts as well. ive swapped out my ram, ssds and wifi card with no problems.

 

[willhub]

So is LM not like a thin sheet between HSF and CPU like paste?

 

[FloppyPoppy]

So is LM not like a thin sheet between HSF and CPU like paste?

LM is basically exactly the same as a traditional thermal paste. Only difference being is that it's conductive so you need to be a little more careful on application. It has a HUGE MW/k dissipation in comparison to even the best ceramic/diamond solutions on the market allowing the heat to transfer much more effectively. My X5V6 shed quite a lot of heat when i applied mine as it let the cooler work at it's most efficient.

EDIT : I have just had a quick look and the best none conductive thermal grizzly paste is 12.5mk/w compared to 73 for their LM.

 

[baloney]

I researched into applying thermal paste and generally it's thought more is better than less as it just all gets pushed out which indeed looks the case, I think the cooling solution needs replacing wonder if they have some spare ones in Burnley?

At 4.2GHz cities skylines it's at 88 degrees, but benchmarks it hits 99 instantly like prime 95.

Even at 2.9GHz -0.170mv it still hits 70 degrees, 50 idle. Weirdly it'll crash yet -0.150 works for 4.0GHz.

the heat conduction ability may get weaken if you paste too much thermal grease beween die and thermal module - this has been approved in our lab
my personal suggestion is that before re-pasting, just clean all the grease remained on the surface of die also the thermal module.
Take little new thermal grease and paste it with tool like butter knife - to make it evenly distributed.
and most important of all, do fix the thermal module tight for 100% heat conduction from die > thermal grease > heat sink

BTW, 88 c seems okay

 

[FrostFox]

have you tried to update the C&C or BIOS?

Bios is the latest, C&C needed updating , ill keep an eye on it and report back if it doesnt work.

 

[FrostFox]

@baloney @Atom80 Im still having boot up issues on my x7 DT v8, little worried its less than 12months old. Bios and C&C are both updated to latest but made no difference. Usually 1st start up of the day is black screen but once it loads up its fine, no crashes or blue screen. Its just the initial bootup thats the problem. Anything else u can advise to check?

Edit:- checked all the ram sticks, I have 2 newer 16GB sticks and the 2 original 8GB sticks that came with it, all 4 sticks on their own did black screen boots.

 

[baloney]

@baloney @Atom80 Im still having boot up issues on my x7 DT v8, little worried its less than 12months old. Bios and C&C are both updated to latest but made no difference. Usually 1st start up of the day is black screen but once it loads up its fine, no crashes or blue screen. Its just the initial bootup thats the problem. Anything else u can advise to check?

Edit:- checked all the ram sticks, I have 2 newer 16GB sticks and the 2 original 8GB sticks that came with it, all 4 sticks on their own did black screen boots.

we didn't test over mixed size combination of RAM in our lab. my opinion is that have your dual 16G first installed first to see if it's improved. If it's okay, install original dual 8G on