Battery - switch for isolation.

I recommend fitting a isolator and not relying on spannering on and off the battery lead.

I could never prove it, but I reckon a loose battery lead was the reason I crashed many years ago because I was regularly taking it on and off to clear a Check Engine Light fault (being a yoof with a fat exhaust and O2 sensor issues). Lost power including traction on a long sweeping wet bend and demonstrated a total lack of ability to do anything other than soil my trousers.
 
I have had the issue a number of years now. The current battery is brand new and just one of many I have had to purchase over the years when I have forgotten to disconnect the battery and had it die.
 
skyripper said:
I recommend fitting a isolator and not relying on spannering on and off the battery lead.

I could never prove it, but I reckon a loose battery lead was the reason I crashed many years ago because I was regularly taking it on and off to clear a Check Engine Light fault (being a yoof with a fat exhaust and O2 sensor issues). Lost power including traction on a long sweeping wet bend and demonstrated a total lack of ability to do anything other than soil my trousers.
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I bet your insurance bought that excuse as much as anyone reading this post :p
 
My father had a problem with a draining battery years ago, nobody could find the cause.

It went on until one winters evening and he'd remembered that he'd left some work stuff on the back seat, when he went out the car in the dark he noticed light shining through the split folding back seats.

It had been the hatch light switch intermittently getting stuck on :)
 
dLockers said:
I bet your insurance bought that excuse as much as anyone reading this post :p
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Not sure I get ya? I lost all electrical power on a motorway sliproad, which meant traction control, ABS, power steering as well as probably lack of any sparks in the engine. I promptly oversteered, failed to correct, span and planted the car in the barrier.

Anyway my point is spannering the lead on and off regularly increases the risk of one morning chuffing it up. Which would be bad.
 
I highly doubt it'll be the instrument cluster causing the fault. However, if it is, a second hand one can be coded to work.

I'd be checking the alarm siren first, they're known for causing issues.
 
I have had the alarm removed. So I don’t think it is that.

I thought the cost of programming the binnacle was extortionate as I would have to go to Audi.
 
I expect Audi have quoted for a new one which would required programming and coding to your vehicle.

Plenty of places can repair the cluster. We've used these people for multiple issues and they've repaired them all. https://cartronix.co.uk

Second ones can be coded to your vehicle, but the dealer tools probably can't do it. It would require specialist tools. Have a look for local specialists and/or a mapping company might be able to do it
 
mrgubby said:
My father had a problem with a draining battery years ago, nobody could find the cause.

It went on until one winters evening and he'd remembered that he'd left some work stuff on the back seat, when he went out the car in the dark he noticed light shining through the split folding back seats.

It had been the hatch light switch intermittently getting stuck on :)
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I would have thought a modernish Audi would automatically turn off lights after a set amount of time of the ignition being turned off. I know my Saab does and that's 2004 so pretty ancient.
 
Bazzards said:
It had no wires at all. Just a simple dial on top to disconnect/reconnect. It looked like the image above but without the wires.

That cost me a new battery as it would not hold a charge.
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Ah, OK. That one I posted, and all the ones I've seen, need the entire threaded part to be removed to disconnect the battery. It isn't a switch as such, the electricity actually flows through the threaded part. If you removed it fully (and didn't just undo it a bit) the only reason the circuit wouldn't have been disconnected would be if the isolation material (usually a piece of plastic between two of the metal parts) was out of place or missing. That's something I've seen mentioned with cheaper ones in the past.
 
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