Big Bike Thread

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20mm mountain bike axles are overkill ... fact

always wondered why they dont just use a solid threaded axle for jumping and downhill etc, there isnt really need for qr in those cases
 
20mm TA aren't overkill if you're doing any DH/FR/large drops.

Besides, Maxle's make them simple, '08 stuff will also allow rear Maxle's.
 
Solid threaded axles require you to carry a spanner around. A 'normal' through axle is just allen keys with pinch bolts so you can do it on the trails if you need to. My rear 12mm axle is the same, 2 pinch bolts and allen key axle ends.
 
i didn't say a 5mm qr would be better.

a female type axle between 12-14mm would easily be strong enough and lighter and wouldnt require spanners ( which i dont see as a problem anyway)
 
andy said:
i didn't say a 5mm qr would be better.

a female type axle between 12-14mm would easily be strong enough and lighter and wouldnt require spanners ( which i dont see as a problem anyway)
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Define female type axle? :confused:

Whats so hard about sliding the wheel betweent he forks,sliding the axle through,putting a bolt into the other side of the axle and doing up some pinchbolts?
 
Jonny ///M said:
Define female type axle? :confused:

Whats so hard about sliding the wheel betweent he forks,sliding the axle through,putting a bolt into the other side of the axle and doing up some pinchbolts?
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Exactly.. Doesnt take long and no need for spanners.. A set of allen keys.. which you carry around anyways.
 
At the moment I am always putting my bike in the boot of the car to go to trails (no rack yet) so I like the QR. Other than that can't see the point, especially when I have to leave my bike down town...makes it easier to steal! :(
 
andy said:
why use 20mm though ? it doesnt need to be anywhere near that thick , just adds un needed weight
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9mm solid steel axle or a 20mm hollow aluminium axle..... :confused:

If its not needed why do some bikes take a 20mm rear axle?(yeti dh9 afaik -santa cruz super 8 has a 14mm axle) or does the foes curnutt fork take a 30mm axle IIRC.
 
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I dear, what have I started.

20mm thu axels are for a different type of rider. You see it more on AM / aggressive XC bikes nowadays where as 2 years ago it would have been seen as total overkill. The XC racer and weight weenie won't want or need a thru axel though.

-----

The problem with Curnett shocks is that if you want them serviced you have to send them to Italy and can take weeks to get back.
 
a 20mm axle really dont weight that much at all and take 3 mins really to undo the bolts. Also as far as hope hubs are concerned anyway, the 20mm version of the their hub is a few grams lighter than the qr version, so its kinda balances out :p
 
SpudMaster said:
Also as far as hope hubs are concerned anyway, the 20mm version of the their hub is a few grams lighter than the qr version, so its kinda balances out :p
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Not when you add the weight of a 20mm axel. :p
 
FFS people get a grip!

How much stronger is a 20mm axle! How much stiffer does the front end become!!!! If it means an extra 100 grams(if it even is that) then i'll happily take 20mm over 9mm QR.

The brake on the junior Ts kept pulling the wheel in the drop outs slightly.....this was with the QR really tight,i had to put some knurled washers in just to stop it! That wont happen with 20mm axles.
 
A pal of mine just sent me a Camera phone pic of his Iron Horse MK3. This year's frame loses a pound of weight over last years model.

It has Pikes with guess what? A 20mm Thru Axel! :o

Rest of spec that I can remember:

RF Evolve XC with my warranty replacement BB. :p
Sram X9 Groupset.
Thomson Elite Saddle and Stem
FiZik Gobi Saddle.
Hope XC's on DT Swiss EX 5.1D's with Tubeless kit.



weescott-MKIII_web.jpg
 
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