Big Bike Thread

nicholas_yiu · 3 Dec 2007 at 12:51

I use slicks for commuting and change to fire XC for offroad.

Using slicks make a huge difference on road, it takes much less effort to get up to speed, you also don't slow down as quickly. They are also a lot quieter. I really hate the noise the fire XC makes when I use them on the road.

kieranv · 3 Dec 2007 at 13:01

MP - i wouldnt get a top level bike for your first full sus, unless you can absolutely afford it, which on 10k i doubt it

I say use the voucher thing to get a lower spec bike for that sort of money and maybe upgrade it with your own money, that way you're getting a free base bike and just spending your money on parts?

monkeypants · 3 Dec 2007 at 16:58

I've booked a demo on an '08 Epic Expert. Rode one today and it's just amazing how the shock turns on and off!

The voucher is pretty much useless for me, as every bike I'm considering (that will deffinatly be available) is >£1k.

My options have opened up a bit, as I can buy on interest free finance, so now all the £2k level bikes are looking distinct possibilities. Although part of me is still saying "be sensible and get the 2007 FSRxc Comp"

Choosing bikes is hard

Genoma · 3 Dec 2007 at 18:33

MP, also depends a lot on what kind of riding you are doing the bikes you have listed are quite different. Where do you spend most of your time riding? If I was you I would have a look at a few bargain bikes around online. If you are set on spesh, also consider the Spesh Pitch, which seems to be very good value for money at £1199~£1399, albeit spesh has been skimping out on some of the components it seems a lot of bike for the money.

On the other hand, if you are considering your dream machine, my budget would work around getting the frame I want with the best suspension components I can afford, a good set of wheels then everything else can be replaced later.

Leisure Lakes had a Race Face finishing kit (headset, stem, cranks, bars, seatpost) which I used on my build and saved me a good wack together, with a view that they are decent components anyway, the XC spec kept my build light and they can/will be replaced as and when needed.

PlatinumFX · 3 Dec 2007 at 20:12

monkeypants said:
I've booked a demo on an '08 Epic Expert. Rode one today and it's just amazing how the shock turns on and off!

The voucher is pretty much useless for me, as every bike I'm considering (that will deffinatly be available) is >£1k.

My options have opened up a bit, as I can buy on interest free finance, so now all the £2k level bikes are looking distinct possibilities. Although part of me is still saying "be sensible and get the 2007 FSRxc Comp"

Choosing bikes is hard

My apologies if its not my place but just because you can, doesn't mean you should. I am reffering to the interest free finance. On 10K pa, id very hesistant to take on a burden like that. Just a word of caution from an semi-impovarished student who's learnt many financial lessons the hard way.

monkeypants · 3 Dec 2007 at 21:54

I ride Grizedale's North Face trail and Gisburn forest mostly, with trips to wales (Coed y Brenin) so it's XC mostly, and nothing I couldn't handle on my hardtail.

I'm looking at the Stumpjumper now and wondering if the brain locks the rear shock out as much as the epic, as it was really quite amazing how it changed from HT firm to free flowing, but the was I ride, I doubt I'll need the extra travel.

Platinum: Thanks for your concern, but I have very little outgoing (live at home, don't drink much at all etc. Basically I can manage my finances well

) and I'd pay a fair chunk off when I took the bike home so it'd be less than £90 going out of my bank each month.

After the demo I'll arrange one on an AFR'd Stumpjumper and then an FSRxc. If I don't think the brainy bikes are worth it, I'll get the FSRxc. As Genoma said, I can easily upgrade the components later.

Genoma · 4 Dec 2007 at 07:53

Although the FSR xc is a nice price, if you are doing trails like Coed-Y-Brenin, you may want more travel, the FSR xc is built around a 100mm fork which is great for racing / fast trails. I personnaly would be looking for a more travel for that sort of riding, but this is certainly a personal thing.

SgtTupac · 8 Dec 2007 at 18:09

Piccy of my pads after today! 3 runs of Rheola!

Jonny ///M · 8 Dec 2007 at 19:23

SgtTupac said:
Piccy of my pads after today! 3 runs of Rheola!

WTF!!!

Closest i have come to that is my hayes 9 pads after months of use with a sticky piston! :eek:

HeadlessChicken · 8 Dec 2007 at 20:31

I got through a WHOLE brand new pair of sintered pads in one ride at Thetford. The earth there is full of sand and silt, and we rode for bloomin ages hitting every big puddle possible (one of those, "I'm so wet, I can't get any wetter" situations).

Expensive ride that

Kamerad · 8 Dec 2007 at 20:53

HeadlessChicken said:
I got through a WHOLE brand new pair of sintered pads in one ride at Thetford. The earth there is full of sand and silt, and we rode for bloomin ages hitting every big puddle possible (one of those, "I'm so wet, I can't get any wetter" situations).

Expensive ride that

Did you bed the pads in?

SgtTupac · 9 Dec 2007 at 10:12

Rheola is basically bog lol.. Have a look on youtube for Rheola downhill.... Then look for "starwars"

barkey52 · 9 Dec 2007 at 16:14

I've just got some avid juicy brakes and the pads are stupidly close together almost to the point they are almost touching each other. I'm assuming this means I will need to bleed the brakes to allow them to rest with a much bigger gap between them.

SgtTupac · 9 Dec 2007 at 16:47

What do you mean? If you mean they are close to the disc thats normal.. They practically just rub the disc all the time.

barkey52 · 9 Dec 2007 at 17:13

there so close the disc wont even fit between them

Jonny ///M · 9 Dec 2007 at 17:13

barkey52 said:
I've just got some avid juicy brakes and the pads are stupidly close together almost to the point they are almost touching each other. I'm assuming this means I will need to bleed the brakes to allow them to rest with a much bigger gap between them.

Nah just use something to push the pads apart which will push the pistons back into the bores.

monkeypants · 9 Dec 2007 at 17:14

Waggle a flat head screwdriver between the pads (without the wheel on obviously) until the pads are all the way back in their pistons. Put the wheels back on and squeeze the levers a few times.

Do not pull the lever without a disc in, that's what causes the pads to get too close together.

barkey52 · 9 Dec 2007 at 17:44

Thanks

monkeypants said:
Do not pull the lever without a disc in, that's what causes the pads to get too close together.

in the manual it doesn't give any kind of warning which it should for idiots like me

SgtTupac · 9 Dec 2007 at 17:44

Ah right... id take the pads out before you go wedging a screw driver in there.. Gently push the pistons back in then

monkeypants · 9 Dec 2007 at 19:39

Don't be a woman! The pads are pretty tough and if you use a reasonable size flat-head screwdriver (ie. anything bigger than a jewellery one) then no damage will come to the pads and you won't have to fuss with removing/replacing them.