Big Chris said:quackers: I'd go for the standard 3.0, not the disc one. It's another £20 cheaper, and cable discs (especially cheap Tektro ones) are more hassle than they're worth tbh.
Breamy said:cheap disks r really fiddly and heavy and just not worth it as the power isnt much of an increase if any at all
Happens to most after a few DH trials.Big Chris said:Cable disc brakes suffer mainly from the longer cables they have. These stretch quite quickly causing the brake to feel spongy and unresponsive. Also, if you ride offroad then dirt/grime gets into the outer casing making them feel rough.
All disc breaks are pretty fiddly to set up. The cheaper ones are crap, agreed.Big Chris said:Aside from that, as Breamy says they're fiddly to set up and adjust as the pads wear and the cheaper ones (like you'll get on a £200-£300 bike) are poorly constructed and not very sturdy.
Yep, I'll agree with that, Spesh's HardRock Sport Disc 2004 is a prime example.Big Chris said:The other main gripe is that a relatively cheap bike with cable discs will not be as well spec'd elsewhere (gears, controls, suspension fork) as one at the the same price with standard rim brakes, which themselves are just as powerful as cable discs if set up properly.
I'll agree with that, although in some cases you can get discs brakes on bikes for decent prices. Bikes such as the Commencal Combi Disc come with very good breaks (Hayes HFX9's) for the money (£510).Big Chris said:My advice - spend as much as you're willing to part with on a bike with rim brakes (will be referred to as v-brakes in most ads) and you'll end up with more for your money.
Very nice bike. Have the same fork range (but World Cups, not Team) here, with an Poploc Adjust, excellent piece of kit.Breamy said:my handjob -
Rock shox reba team u-turn with poploc
Tbh, I'd go for a Claud Butler Cape Wrath, a Commencal Combi Disc or a GT Avalanche 1.0 over the 4900.Breamy said:id go 4 a 6500 over the 4900 tbh its the same price and hayes sole arnt that good and the spec on the 6500 is better as the frame is much lighter. if you wanted at a later date you could put disks on it as its got disk hubs
All brake/gear cables experience stretching to some degree, and there will always be some adjustment needed a ride or two in having fitted new ones (same thing happens with new guitar strings). With cable discs however, the cables are that much longer that the leverage placed on them by braking (and modern leavers pull more cable than older cantilever systems) stretches them out that much more, meaning often the lever will pull back to the bar, requiring more adjustment of the caliper and cable.Phnom_Penh said:Happens to most after a few DH trials.
Hydraulic discs are actually quite easy, they come pre-bled so it's just a case of aligning the caliper with the disc, by using washers/spacers. I've fitted quite a few in my time (worked in a bike shop for a couple of years) and never had any trouble. Cable discs however are a right pain in the ass.Phnom_Penh said:All disc breaks are pretty fiddly to set up. The cheaper ones are crap, agreed.
As of about £500 yeah you start to see capable components in all areas of a bike, but not at £200-£300 which is the range marc2003 is looking at.Phnom_Penh said:I'll agree with that, although in some cases you can get discs brakes on bikes for decent prices. Bikes such as the Commencal Combi Disc come with very good breaks (Hayes HFX9's) for the money (£510).
Its an alright spec, the frame's fluidformed, and seems pretty decent Aluxx 6061?. The fork should be ok, but I haven't tried that exact model, the wheels are ok too, they're Alex rims which are ok, although never thought much of Shimano 475 Hubs though. Shimano LX Shifters and rear Derauller good, but the deore front mech isn't as good. The brakes look like Giant ripoffs of Hope C2s, so should be ok too. Not sure how good the crank is though, but they're usually one of the first things to be replaced. Tires are good, not so sure about the headset, never liked semi-integrated ones, it could be replaced with a Chris King Perdido, but tbh, I'd go for a bike with an Aheadset gusset.cheets64 said:
Last three pairs of brakes I've had, I've had to bleed myself (spose thats what come from using custom levers.)Big Chris said:Pretty much all hydro systems come pre-bled, infact I can't think of any from Hope, Hayes, Magura, Formula or Avid that require you to cut the hose and bleed the system.
Avid and Hayes cable discs are probably the best of a bad bunch yeah, but you're getting on for hydro prices (ChainReaction sell HFX9 XC for £75 each now) so you might as well go all the way.
Well there you go then, if you use custom levers then of course you're going to have to bleed them yourself. If you buy a hydro system off the shelf from any bike shop then it'll come bled and ready for fitting.Phnom_Penh said:Last three pairs of brakes I've had, I've had to bleed myself (spose thats what come from using custom levers.)
Yes you are! It's against the rules to have a bike like that (Turner have always been a fav of mine since way back in the early 90's) and not ride it. What sports have you found that you enjoy more though? My advice is to give them up and ride your bike some more... .Seraphim said:...I'm a disgrace to the mountain biking community!
Chill out, you his dad or something?Phnom_Penh said:@ Seraphim.
Thats a waste of a bike tbh, hate to think how much that cost you for you to then go and not use it.