Big Bike Thread

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Nice :) I love the Scott Scales

2hmet5d.jpg


:p
 
School boy error

Well I tried the cable tie trick over night and my brakes are still shot so i thought ill investigate some more. (ps im a noob a bike maintenance)

Soo i take the rea wheel off look at brakes pads still in calipers etc, the for the love of god
i dont know what made me do it but i pumped the brake lever!!!!!!!

Oh joy the pads welded together and no hope of gettin the wheel and disk back on.

So i then had to start to take off my brakes and remove pads (which ive never done before)

Managed to push the pistons in enough to get my wheel back on.

So an eventful hour but glad i have learnt how change my pads.

Just a shame none of it fixed my brakes. I think they need bleeding so not overly happy
didnt think they would need bleeding so soon :(

Andy
 
Tip: If you (or someone else) pumps the brake leaver of your hydraulic disk brakes when the wheel is out, use a knife blade between the pad backing/pads to slowly wedge the pistons back in.
 
IceAx said:
Just a shame none of it fixed my brakes. I think they need bleeding so not overly happy
didnt think they would need bleeding so soon :(
Click to expand...

Have you checked for leaks?
Contaminated pads then a loss of power could mean fluid has been leaking out onto the pads/rotors somewhere.
 
Pads and disks didnt look like they were contaminated just look theyHve started to bed in :s

Thanks WS ill remember that for next time!

Bike is booked in at LBS on friday, also going to get my other bike into another LBS
for repair after my crash.

What is the rough cost to change an 8spd into a SS ? (GT Chucker)

Cheers

Andy
 
Mmmm bike porn, I never knew this thread existed! Got my new MTB today through Cycle2Work scheme. Opted for a 2010 Specialized Rockhopper SL since it had some nice spec for the cash.



Frame: Specialized M4 fully manipulated alloy frame, fully butted, ORE DT, asymmetrical seat stays, forged dropouts w/ replaceable derailleur hanger, disc only

Fork: RockShox Dart 3 SL, 80/100mm, 1 piece magnesium lower, alloy steerer, adj. reb. damping w/ LO and preload adj., size-specific spring rates, disc only

Gears: 27 Shimano Deore, 34.9mm clamp, top swing, bottom pull Shimano RD-M592 Deore Shadow, long cage

Shifters: Shimano SL-590 Deore trigger

Wheels: Alex RHD 26 inch, pinned, alloy double wall, eyelets, 28h front and 32h rear Forged alloy, hi/low flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, 28h Forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, cassette, 32h 2mm (14g) stainless

Brakes: Tektro Auriga Pro Tektro Auriga Pro, hydraulic disc, dual piston w/ 160mm rotor Tektro Auriga Pro, hydraulic disc, dual piston w/ 160mm rotor

Drivetrain: Shimano FC-M442, Octalink Spline 44A x 32S x 22S replaceable crankset KMC X9 w/ reusable Missing Link Chain, Shimano HG50, 9-speed, 11-34t cassette, Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68mm x 118mm Bb

Extra Features: Alloy two bolt, 12.5mm offset, micro adjust, 30.9mm Specialized Fast Trak LK Sport, 26x2.0 inch, 60TPI, wire bead Front
 
It's the Scale 35 2009, carbon fibre frame. I love it personally, it does have a very harsh geometry but it suits me :)

The brakes on the 2009 are only Juicy 3's so a little underpowered, but they're not too bad.
So far only issues are the relatively soft carbon fibre, I ended up having some paint rubbed away then chipped by a bike carriers, not am issue on Al though I'd imagine.

Also the tyre clearance is pretty minimal on the back, anything larger than the 2.25 I think tyres would potentially cause issues, not sure it's the same on other models.

It goes up rough tracks very fast though. My friend has a cube of some sort, and maybe due to different styles/tyres but I seem to be able to get more traction down.

One other downside I think is they tend to make the scales XC orientated, I mean they are designed for that, so some of the components aren't the strongest, I think on mine at least the Mavic 317 is a fairly light but weak rim, although I;ve not had an issue yet, and the Schwalbe tyres, the Rocket Ron that I have are good on dry dusty/solid tracks and roads but I've found them to fail me in mud, they get clogged very easily.
 
IceAx said:
What is the rough cost to change an 8spd into a SS ? (GT Chucker)
Click to expand...
You can do it fairly cheap. If you use the chain you've got, leave on one of your chainrings and one sprocket from your cassette, you'll only need some cassette spacers and a tensioner. Should be less than £20. I did it this way on my jump bike.

you could also do it the 'proper' way and get a singlespeed sprocket (a little wider in the middle to spread the load on the hub splines) and then you'd need a singlespeed chain and chainrings also.
 
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I'm getting the upgrade itch, and my Juicy 3's aren't providing me the control over my braking, plus they are a bit on the weedy side. Even with a 185mm rotor.

Therefore I was looking at :

Elixir 5 185mm front 160mm rear and I can keep rotor. Not been a fan of the Avid, but they are relatively cheap, however bleed process is a pain.

or

Hope TechM4 front 183mm with standard rotor and Hope Tech X2 rear 160mm. Apparently a popular setup. Pros are easier to bleed, I like the look of them, they are a mainly U.K made product which I am proud of, and more so as they are in Barnoldswick which isn't too far from where I lived and where my Grandfather helped make fan blades for the RR engines.
But they cost a lot and maybe overkill for what I need.
 
What's the shelf-life of disk pads generally? I've had some Mono-Minis on my bike for 4 years now, the bike didn't get used much from new until a few months ago though.

So, although there's loads of actual pad left, there isn't much bite to them anymore. I've cleaned the disk rotor with some proper cleaner and to my knowledge the pads aren't contaminated, but I need quite a hefty grab to bring the bike to a stop.
 
Big Chris said:
What's the shelf-life of disk pads generally? I've had some Mono-Minis on my bike for 4 years now, the bike didn't get used much from new until a few months ago though.

So, although there's loads of actual pad left, there isn't much bite to them anymore. I've cleaned the disk rotor with some proper cleaner and to my knowledge the pads aren't contaminated, but I need quite a hefty grab to bring the bike to a stop.
Click to expand...

They may just need re-bedding in if you haven't used them in a while and there is plenty of pad left on them, you could try rubbing them on some rough sandpaper to re-bur them then bed them in again. And they may need a bleed.
 
Big Chris said:
What's the shelf-life of disk pads generally?
Click to expand...
All depends on the use. With heavy use they may last a summer. Less in the winter. And it depends on the compound. Carry a spare set with you if they're wearing out quite thing - other than that don't worry ;)
Big Chris said:
So, although there's loads of actual pad left, there isn't much bite to them anymore. I've cleaned the disk rotor with some proper cleaner and to my knowledge the pads aren't contaminated, but I need quite a hefty grab to bring the bike to a stop.
Click to expand...
As IC said, they'll probably just need some bedding in again.
Rough them up with some sandpaper, after a ride or two they should be back to normal :) Check the brakes for leaks or hose deterioriation also if they've been left unattended for that long.
 
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