Big Bike Thread

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From the May edition of MBR mag's big bar test:

Easton Haven Carbon - 177g - 720mm - £119.99 - 9/10
Easton Havoc Alloy - 300g - 750mm - £64.99 - 9/10
Easton Havoc Carbon - 234g - 750mm - £119.99 - 10/10
mavity 777 - 322g - 780mm - £79.95 - 9/10
Gusset Slade - 322g - 760mm - £39.99 - 9/10
Race Face Sixc 3/4 - 234g - 730mm - £119.00 - 9/10
Renthal Fatbar - 361g - 780mm - £59.99 - 10/10

The sunline V-One (which I have) only scored 8/10.. :(


:)
 
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"andy" said:
the same Geo as other popular bars arent they ?

and the colour/decals sicken me:p
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As our little hobbit posted above, they are teh perfect!
Seriously though, first time I used them, they just felt perfect... before knew the amount of sweep/rise .

Still unsure precisely how they differ in sweep to the others, they just felt better than the V one's/Warhead/Atlas FR/Boobars ive had before them. They have some fancy shock absorbermagic also on the inside of the bar.

I’m getting the 20mm rise ones for my DH bike and the 38mm rise ones for the Tracer.
I’ll cut the Tracer’s down to 750 though, possibly a wee bit narrower.
 
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When installing a new tyre, would you wipe it over first or anything to help remove mould release, or just ride it for a few miles?

Have got a fat albert front to install, at first glance it doesn't say which way to install it, but I assume it is directional.
 
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Mould release? :confused: Make sure the rim is clean, put on your rubber and ride! F'nar, f,nar!

All the Schwalbe tyre I have are directional. I would assume the Fat Alberts are the same.
 
R0B75 said:
You're meant to have 2 to 3 inches clearance over the top tube of the frame when standing over it.

If you haven't been on a bike for a long time any saddle will give you a sore arse.
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Take away the saddle and I've got a good 2-3 inches. It only starts to hit my groin towards the front of the bike, but barely at that which is why I'd say the frame is probably correct. I think it's because I'm used to riding smaller frames which is why this has thrown me slightly.

I've got to pop to work now, but I'll be trying to buy some bits and bobs online later such as shorts and pedals, etc.

What colour pedals do people think I should get? The nicest I've seen have been the Octane blue (if you don't know which ones I mean, I'll grab a link later, don't have time now unfortunately!) ones as it matches my front-sus' lock-out, but aside from that I'm thinking white or silver/chrome DMR-types.

Also, what colour bottle-cage? :p

And finally, any personal recommendations for saddle-bags and lights? I'm currently liking the look of the Specialized saddle-bag on Evans.

My friend last night made the point that I've just spent a bit of money on the bike but I haven't really taken it out for a real journey yet and therefore don't have a bond. That, and I do probably need to keep tweaking the variables to get it to feel perfect. Has to wait until I get the pedals though. :D :o
 
Nix said:
What colour pedals do people think I should get? The nicest I've seen have been the Octane blue (if you don't know which ones I mean, I'll grab a link later, don't have time now unfortunately!) ones as it matches my front-sus' lock-out, but aside from that I'm thinking white or silver/chrome DMR-types.

Also, what colour bottle-cage? :p

And finally, any personal recommendations for saddle-bags and lights? I'm currently liking the look of the Specialized saddle-bag on Evans.

My friend last night made the point that I've just spent a bit of money on the bike but I haven't really taken it out for a real journey yet and therefore don't have a bond. That, and I do probably need to keep tweaking the variables to get it to feel perfect. Has to wait until I get the pedals though. :D :o
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Most of what you look at will be a personal choice that suits you. We can point out types of pedal but the colour should be your choice :D

You will spend money on your bike to make it feel right. I'm still doing it on mine and I bought it last August. Bars, grips, stem, brakes, tyres, seat and seatpost are all different now. No point in getting really expensive pedals. Some DMR or Wellgo flats will do just fine. YOU pick the colour. :D

Saddle bag? :eek:

Bottle Cage: Something cheap. Got a lifeline one from Wiggle the other week for £2.40. Colour? Again, your choice. I've got a black one. :p

Lights: What type of riding do you want to do at night? Cycle path or road then you only need to be seen, not blind drivers, so something cheap, but stylish. Cat Eye do decent lights. If trail riding at night then you need something a whole lot better and expensive.
 
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weescott said:
Mould release? :confused: Make sure the rim is clean, put on your rubber and ride! F'nar, f,nar!

All the Schwalbe tyre I have are directional. I would assume the Fat Alberts are the same.
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When tyres are made they are moulded ;)

The mould release can be slippy, its the same case on actual car tyres, slippy until bedded in.

Is there a directional arrow on the tyre to show you, ive not opened it up yet, so its still folded.
 
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Berger said:
When tyres are made they are moulded ;)

The mould release can be slippy, its the same case on actual car tyres, slippy until bedded in.

Is there a directional arrow on the tyre to show you, ive not opened it up yet, so its still folded.
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Ive never wiped a tyre before use, there will usually be a directional arrow on the sidewall somewhere.
 
Just wondering if anyone can recommend me any decent Bike service shops in Nottingham? Are evans cycles any good? Also what level of service should i have?

This is the bike i have got http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-giant-xtc-25-07-12440/

I would say it has had moderate use when i first got it i would probably ride 50miles a week but last year not seen much action due to being a University. Since i have had it had the mini service but nothing after that. One thing i have noticed is that gears are not in alligment as I cant get to the top ones of the rear cassette.

Would people recommended a basic service ~£35-50 or a full service £85 and it will probably need new brakepads and tyres. Also is it worth the money to have the forks serviced as well as it seems a lot of money ~£80.

Thanks
 
I've got my new Hope M4s ordered and a new saddle too.. Went for the braided brakes in the end as I feel I needed more placebo effect plus they looked better! :)

Roll on tomorrow!
 
lynchy6789 said:
Just wondering if anyone can recommend me any decent Bike service shops in Nottingham? Are evans cycles any good? Also what level of service should i have?

This is the bike i have got http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-giant-xtc-25-07-12440/

I would say it has had moderate use when i first got it i would probably ride 50miles a week but last year not seen much action due to being a University. Since i have had it had the mini service but nothing after that. One thing i have noticed is that gears are not in alligment as I cant get to the top ones of the rear cassette.

Would people recommended a basic service ~£35-50 or a full service £85 and it will probably need new brakepads and tyres. Also is it worth the money to have the forks serviced as well as it seems a lot of money ~£80.

Thanks
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You could probably do most of your bike service yourself, if not then ask the bike shop to adjust the gears and advise if anything else needs done and take it from there. It shouldn't cost much to do at all. If you are buying stuff from them they might even adjust it for free, assuming nothing is wrong.

New brake pads c£15
New gear cable c£3
Tyre choice depends what you want to use the bike for, but budget around £20-£30 each.
If other parts need replacing like the chain, cassette & rings, then it can get expensive.

:)
 
What do people think of cable disc brakes, in comparison to V-brakes and hydraulic brake?

I know hydraulic discs are excellent in comparison to V-brakes, but they are more expensive and trickier to service. Cable discs are no more complex than V-brakes for servicing but are they really much better in day to day use?
 
Mechanical disc brakes are heavier than Vs but don't have the problem of not working well in the wet, they don't get clogged up with mud and still work with buckled wheels. RIP V brakes.
 
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