Biker's Cafe Chatroom

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Razor-BladE said:
Just passed my CBT a couple of days ago :D I was first undecided if I wanted to go direct access, but after having done it, I think I want to get a bit more experience on a 125 before doing my full licence, and I'll only be doing short commuter trips.

Bought the 13mm Pragmasis chain and RoundLock yesterday (so hopefully arrive end of the upcoming week/early next week).
Should have arriving tomorrow 2 Abus disk locks, a cover, and all the clothes/helmet from sportsbikeshop. (Really liking the helmet graphics: https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/430915)

Also tomorrow, I'll be viewing a 2017 Yamaha YBR 125 with 13k miles, looks really clean, and with a top box for £1250. I've been looking and even 2006-2008 bikes seem to be going for £800+, so I thought for something 2 years old, £1250 seems about right?

Anything I should know or anything else I should buy being new into the motorbike world?
Really excited to get riding! :D
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Over all condition is usually a good indicator. Check up in front of the rear wheel as this can be a good indicator as to the condition of the bits of the bike you cannot see. Ask when the oil was last changed and the condition of the chain (is it rusty and really slack?). Check head stock bearings and brakes and disks you might need to look up how to do these bits if you don't already know.
 
MowyTone said:
Over all condition is usually a good indicator. Check up in front of the rear wheel as this can be a good indicator as to the condition of the bits of the bike you cannot see. Ask when the oil was last changed and the condition of the chain (is it rusty and really slack?). Check head stock bearings and brakes and disks you might need to look up how to do these bits if you don't already know.
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Thanks. I paid and collected it on yesterday! General condition is very good, I didn't check the head stock bearings (I'll check it tomorrow), but brakes/chain were good and tyres (Pilot Street) are relatively new.
He only had it a few months (for his grandson, using it as an interim bike before doing full licence), but he said he normally buys run down bikes and cleans them up to resell. Seemed like a very genuine guy. He said he changed the oil just before sale.

Waiting on a pinlock insert though, because my helmet visor steams up like crazy, unless I have it cracked open a bit but then I get wind cutting into my eyes.

One thing I noticed today though, is that the fuel gauge doesn't seem to really work? Had a quick Google and apparently it's quite common? When I was checking it over before sale, tank was about 2/3 full. Then I noticed today that the fuel gauge was almost empty, I thought that's weird and went to the station and filled up but could only put in £3.80 before the tank was full. Then when I started it up, the fuel gauge said half full... :confused:

Also how much can you lean into corners? I'm taking corners pretty slow because I don't want to lean too much and have the bike slip under me!

Other than the usual oil, chain, brake fluid, brakes, tyres. Is there anything else I need to keep an eye on maintenance wise inbetween services?
 
My old Aprilia Caponord used to give you a good 80 miles or so before dropping the first bar on the fuel gauge. It would then drop 3 out of the remaining 4 in the next 50-60 miles before giving you a random number of miles for the last bar, depending on how hard you'd ridden.

My XR will only show a maximum of 155 miles range no matter what. You can fill it up and then watch the fuel gauge and the range reset, and the 155 mile range tops out two or three bars before the gauge is at max. Unsurprisingly, you can then normally ride 40 - 50 miles before the first bar disappears. So much for German efficiency.

I guess what I'm saying is that motorbike fuel gauges are not known for being reliable. Probably why some bikes are still made without them!
 
Ok thanks. Basically just ignore it even if it fluctuates wildly day to day, and just reset the milage counter every time I top up. I should be safe filling up when I hit the 200 mile mark? Or maybe about 170 to be extra safe?
 
Oh yeah, anyone know what's the deal with insurance for me? I thought my insurance would be ok being 27, maybe around £500. All apart from 1, I was being quoted £1800+ :confused:
I did have to put being parked overnight in a residential car park as I don't have access to a garage, and I do have 3 points from early 2018 :( but I didn't think it would be that much.

The only cheap quote came from MCE, and looking at the reviews there's not much hope if you need to claim from them. Even if I picked full comp (£430) or TPFT (£350) the compulsory excess was £1050, so there really wasn't any point getting those.
In the end I went Third Party only from MCE which was £240. Towards the end of the year I'll be moving place, so I'll be looking to rent something with a garage, so hopefully with that, 1 year NCB and most probably have done my full licence, the other insurers can give me a decent quote.
 
The_Abyss said:
you can then normally ride 40 - 50 miles before the first bar disappears. So much for German efficiency.

I guess what I'm saying is that motorbike fuel gauges are not known for being reliable. Probably why some bikes are still made without them!
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A fellow OcUK member who works on the BMW software told me that's intentional so people feel good about having a full tank for a while after they fill up.
 
Most cars do that, sensor marks full below where you brim it too essentially. So the first 1/4 tank (or bar etc.) lasts ages and the bottom one lasts no distance at all. Just have to do a full to empty run and count the miles...
 
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