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What board are you using Humbug?
What multi/FSB settings are you using? neither of my 8320s would go past 4.6ghz on multi alone.
Depends on your temperatures. DL this and run the stress test for about 30 minutes.
Your looking for no more than 65c on Package and CPU
some BIOS settings that might help
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What your thoughts on the H60 ? Not worth it ?
No x 1000000000000
I had one, and tbh? my 8320 barely held stock clocks. My initial overclock of 4.2ghz failed and my CPU was throttling down to 1.7ghz.
Any kind of big BD/PD overclock requires water. You have to remember that they started life out as 2ghz Opterons and were never designed to be ran that fast. As such they get somewhat hot fast. They don't have a massive overall temp threshold like the Intels do, but they say uncle far quicker.
If you dig around I'm sure you can still find refurb H80s.
Edit. What are your actual voltages? ignore what you set in the bios... I hear that some of the Gigas have terrible Vdroop issues.
ive got room for 3x120mm fans should be fun
Hmm it could be then. You can find my overclock settings here, CHVFZ.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18557773&highlight=8320+analysis
But at no point was I ever able to manually enter the voltage for the memory without serious issues.
Id like to thank everyone for the support and i will bug you all again once i get some water coolingive got room for 3x120mm fans should be fun
Thanks
ALXAndy humbug LtMatt AlamoX Hope i havent missed anyone![]()

Some advice.
1. Do not manually volt your ram on AM3. Especially with an Asus board, they don't like it. Both my CHVFZ and M5A97 R2.0 absolutely hate it when you touch ram voltage. Both are completely unstable and unable to even maintain stock clocks.
2. Be very careful about which cooler you decide to use. Remember; the rule here is that what usually works on Intel doesn't work the same way on AMD. There are certain coolers out there that are supposedly brilliant, yet, when put on an AM3 they just crumble. This is because the AM3 die is larger than the Intel and the cores are put into the far corners. That Zalman wouldn't be much use.
3. Whenever possible, go water. That means H80-H100 if you can pick one up cheap, or, at the very worst a second hand H70. AM3 chips really need water if you want to chase big clocks. I suggest one of the three I listed if you want to chase 4.4ghz+. I am running a Scythe Ninja on my 4.4ghz 8320 (board VRM limited) and it just about holds the temps.
4. Ignore the max temps of the chip. Some people say 63c, others say 72c, I say - basically the chip will let you know itself when it is too hot (it'll simply lock up your PC). You can't possibly damage it because it has a heat throttle/shutdown. It's the same with Intel CPUs, GPUs, anything else. I was told never to go over 63c with my 8320, well I disagree, because I can hold a 5ghz overclock with a max package temp of 73c in Asus Realbench R2.0.
5. Try not to use synthetics to test an AMD. Whilst it may work well on Intel I can run Prime 95 for over an hour with no crashes on my 8320 @ 5.2ghz, yet, run Asus Realbench and as soon as I hit the multi tasking test I bomb. Realbench is great because it uses actual real life applications with which to stress your PC (Handbrake, GIMP, hi res video, etc).
I would aim for 4.4ghz. Anything over that does provide yields, but they get lower and lower as the chip begins to near 5ghz. In the end I decided on an all round clock of 4.9ghz, which hits 71c in Prime 95 and LinX* and remains stable through the Asus Realbench multi tasking tests
* I really don't advise using Prime, but, if used in moderation (IE five minute bursts) it's a good indicator of what sort of temps your CPU will allow you to hit. That's all I use it for though, as like I said it does not simulate real world conditions like Asus Realbench does
Good luck !
H100i
or H100 ? 240mm new or refurb
H80i ? 120mm new or refurb
H100i = H100 with software. They're the same pump (Coolit). H80 is Coolit (same pump, big square bugger !) and H70 is Asetek.
It's not so much the pump, it's the rad size you need to be concerned with. You want either a double thick 120mm, or, double width 240mm single. The issue with AIO is the overall volume of coolant. The more you have, generally the better they perform.
Go with whatever is the cheapest. I am using two 240mm H100s that I got refurb (one was £40 or so the other free from a mate) and both have performed admirably.
The issue with smaller rads is that the coolant heats up fast, and there's simply not enough of it to work with the rad. This is why I strongly advise against coolers like the H60 as they are not worth the materials they're made out of. All looks, nothing else. They simply don't have enough volume.
And remember - bus. Bus bus bus. Multi alone won't really get you anywhere. The devil is in the detail, and, will be a combination of a reasonable multi and a high FSB.
Edwarhys. You're very welcome. I still wouldn't recommend the Zalman though. You're only running a hex, and tbh? any one with a 8 phase motherboard should really be running a FX 8. The 8320 is only £100 or so at the moment.
It's the 8320 you want. Mine at 5ghz is the same as a 3930k/39x0 X at stock. IE - with a full CPU test such as Cinebench I can score 800 points. The 3970x at stock scores 800 points, and 1200 when overclocked. However, that's a £900+ Intel chip and for £100 you can get an AMD that offers 2/3 the performance for 1/4 the price of something like the 3930k.
Before the Intel lot jump in....
That's all 8 cores in use. When apps and or games are threaded less that changes, however, I am absolutely adamant that core use will sky rocket soon. Core use in desktops (IE not professional workstations and or serverrs) is dictated by Intel as they have the highest IPC. Soon they are going to release their first ever desktop 8 core CPU, which will then dictate to game devs how many cores to use.
Windows 7 only used 4, because the I5s were where it was at for leading performance. Windows 8 though uses far more, as people with 4+ core CPUs are now finding out. It won't be long before games use 8 either, because the new consoles (both) have 8.
So if you want to turbo charge your rig and turn it into a nice powerful system buy yourself an 8320. The IPC is 15% higher than Bulldozer too, so it'll demolish your 6100.
