Bought an old BMW M3, filled with regret...

so encountered my first problem, one of the brake callipers is sticking on now and again causing slight vibration through the car.

when I get a chance ill jack it up and free off all the callipers.
 
That was one of the exact issues I read about with K-sport brakes. The ones on your car are more or less the same calliper, just rebranded.

How did you find the Scorpion exhaust on the motorway? Much drone?
 
D2 is such a weird brand/company, they took the name/logo of the mobile phone network in Germany that turned into Vodafone. I'm not sure if they had permission from Vodafone to do it, but all the old DTM cars before Vodafone took over have D2 mobile network branding on them so it makes them look like the same company which always seemed pretty dodgy to me!

DTM Mercedes car sponsored by D2 (Mannesmann) the mobile company:
gpdGdwt.jpg

Compared to pretty much the same logo here:
qI8xWya.jpg

It would be like having Orange or one2one branded calipers. :D
 
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the drone wasn't too bad, it sounded sporty but not over the top.

yea D2 are pretty big on driftworks, hopfully it just needs free'd off and not rebuilt
 
I've done about 100 miles in it today, my dad had a good drive of it too, he must like it as he never drives my cars.

I made a joke that, for the last 10 years I've always had big family cars with no family. (Vectra, st220). now that I have a new born baby I bought a 2 door convertible xD.
 
Hmm googled "Ksport brakes binding", aparently the pad clearence is tiny so when the brakes heat up and expand, make contact with the disk.

Should know more after a good poke around whats going on.
 
Hmm googled "Ksport brakes binding", aparently the pad clearence is tiny so when the brakes heat up and expand, make contact with the disk.

Should know more after a good poke around whats going on.

Simple solution be to just remove some pad material, not the best solution but a potential fix, or other option remove the squeal shims if present or reduce the pad backing plate thickness slightly by taking away some material, just ensure you keep it perfectly flat.

Or alternatively, remove the BBK and offer it as a swap for the CSL brake setup as quite a few run the CSL setup as they could not afford a BBK, or simply upgrade to a good quality BBK like AP or Alcon. :)
 
Gave the car a little blast yesterday, what a machine!, I love the SMG!.

The grip is unreal, the balance is perfect and the power is spot on.

Its the age old story tho, with faster cars means you run into license losing speeds incredibly quick.

I have friday off so going to have a good run out to the lakes and really see whats what.

Can not wait to have a track day!.
 
Gave the car a little blast yesterday, what a machine!, I love the SMG!.

The grip is unreal, the balance is perfect and the power is spot on.

Its the age old story tho, with faster cars means you run into license losing speeds incredibly quick.

I have friday off so going to have a good run out to the lakes and really see whats what.

Can not wait to have a track day!.

Keep roof down, you will go slower. :D
 
figured out how to drop the roof using the key, I wouldn't mind 1 touch options as holding the buttons down is a real bore.

whats the options for 1 touch?
 
so, the car currently has (almost) full BMW service history, apart from the inspection 2, the previous owner got it done at an indy.

I love working on cars, and the BMW seems like a doddle to work on with plenty of access.

do you think its worth attempting to keep a stamped full service history, do it all myself and keep receipts for all parts, or buy parts myself and pay for labour just to get a stamp?.

the only thing I haven't looked into is the valve check, there is a German specialist near me who comes highly rated so if need be, just book it in with them for the valve checks. (I'm sure I could learn to do it myself if need be)

BMW wanted £1200 for a standard inspection 2, I can buy parts myself for £300 (that's including fuel filter and SMG fluid which I bet has never been changed (I don't trust lifetime products, especially on a 100k car)), £250 for valve clearance check and gaskets from specialist (ballpark estimate) and if decided to pay an indy, £150 for labour (estimate).


no doubt the car will be easier to sell with a full BMW/indy history, but these cars are already in the enthusiast only section, and surely fellow enthusiasts can understand anyone with a bit of competence can do a full service without much hassle?.

this isn't because i'm cheap and can't afford it, its simply because I know (and enjoy) how to service cars.

what do you guys think?.



(I'm using inspection 2 as a guideline as that's the costly one)
 
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I would do it all (or as much as possible) yourself, can save hundreds or even thousands depending on how much work over the amount of time you own it.
1. You know its done properly (presuming you're competent)
2. Labour costs are a bigger percentage of total job costs most of the time
3. Lets say you save £2000 doing work yourself over the next 3 years, I doubt very much that if you come to sell it, your car is devalued by £2000 compared to an identical spec car with FBMWSH.

Engine oil and filter change for mine is quoted at £293 (1 to 1.5 hrs of your time, Less than £150 IIRC for oil, filter and sump plugs. or with micro filter = £379 (5 min job and costs ~£40)

EDIT: A big saving is for the above service (oil, filter, microfilter) but with spark plug service = £751
Spark plugs cost me £85, admittedly around 3 hours to do but worth the £275 saving.
 
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with the summer code, comes with just under £300.


I just moved from an st220, talk about awkward spark plugs... in the end I could so them blindfolded xD
nFRSBU
 
You won't need 3 litres of diff fluid for the diff. It's only 1.2litres iirc. And if you don't use the genuine fluid you're going to need FM booster and play around with how much you put in to whether or not you make the diff sound like it's broken or not.

Also, is that the correct coolant? Never seen red coolant in a BMW. Only blue. It must be silicon free iirc otherwise it precipitates and blocks up.

Also, what's the Dexron III for?
 
so, the car currently has (almost) full BMW service history, apart from the inspection 2, the previous owner got it done at an indy.

I love working on cars, and the BMW seems like a doddle to work on with plenty of access.

do you think its worth attempting to keep a stamped full service history, do it all myself and keep receipts for all parts, or buy parts myself and pay for labour just to get a stamp?.

the only thing I haven't looked into is the valve check, there is a German specialist near me who comes highly rated so if need be, just book it in with them for the valve checks. (I'm sure I could learn to do it myself if need be)

BMW wanted £1200 for a standard inspection 2, I can buy parts myself for £300 (that's including fuel filter and SMG fluid which I bet has never been changed (I don't trust lifetime products, especially on a 100k car)), £250 for valve clearance check and gaskets from specialist (ballpark estimate) and if decided to pay an indy, £150 for labour (estimate).


no doubt the car will be easier to sell with a full BMW/indy history, but these cars are already in the enthusiast only section, and surely fellow enthusiasts can understand anyone with a bit of competence can do a full service without much hassle?.

this isn't because i'm cheap and can't afford it, its simply because I know (and enjoy) how to service cars.

what do you guys think?.



(I'm using inspection 2 as a guideline as that's the costly one)
I’m guessing now the history is no longer full BMW then to those who would seek out a Full BMW dealer history will most likely disregard it and look for the next car...

I’m in a similar ish dilemma with my e38, it’s got a Full BMW history (and a folder of BMW invoices as thick as a phone book!) and pricing up it’s next service (Inspection II typically) I’ve had a few quotes of ballpark £1200, I very much want to maintain its impeccable history but not at any price.

I have though discussed my options with a couple of local dealers (Blue Bell Crewe and Stratstone Derby) both have agreed to do the job based on the price for an e39 535i - which is mechanically at least more or less the same - and the price came back at just under half!

Perhaps you could argue that as it’s an older car they could try to do it under the “Value Servicing” deal, this was my approach with my e38, the 7 Series - like the M3 - isn’t covered by this scheme but they were willing to accommodate me and at a considerable saving.

If you initially get fobbed off (as I was by Knights BMW Stoke) try another dealer, I found it interesting that Knights didn’t want to know yet Blue Bell Crewe (who are part of the same group as Knights) couldn’t have been more helpful!

Hope this helps.
 
You won't need 3 litres of diff fluid for the diff. It's only 1.2litres iirc. And if you don't use the genuine fluid you're going to need FM booster and play around with how much you put in to whether or not you make the diff sound like it's broken or not.

Also, is that the correct coolant? Never seen red coolant in a BMW. Only blue. It must be silicon free iirc otherwise it precipitates and blocks up.

Also, what's the Dexron III for?


Dexron is power steering fluid,

The diff oil matches the BMW part number, and i was informed it takes 2.2l?.

A lot of people on m3 cutters run Halfords coolant, this is just another branded version of that, coolant isn't that expensive so I wouldn't mind buying a bottle from the dealer if need be.
 
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Dexron is power steering fluid,

Ah course it is. Are you sure you should be using it? I used Pentosin CHF11S when I had mine as this is what realoem said...

The diff oil matches the BMW part number, and i was informed it takes 2.2l?

Nope. You need friction modifier if you buy aftermarket stuff. Genuine BMW fluid comes with the right amount of FM mixed in so it's a case of just pour it in. With aftermarket stuff you need to buy a bottle of FM too then use trial and error as to how much you need to not make the diff grind. Genuine stuff is £95ish for 3 X 500ml bottles which is more expensive than the aftermarket stuff but worth it for the complete lack of hassle.

A lot of people on m3 cutters run Halfords coolant. I've always ran this stuff in other cars and that includes some track cars. I cant see it being a problem once the cooling system is flushed.

Yeah it doesn't have to be BMW coolant, but it does have to be the right kind. You can't get all the coolant out of the engine so there will be a lot of mixing with the red stuff which it warns specifically against. Just find the coolant part number on realoem and get the equivalent. It won't be red coolant though!

ill do a bit more research, I cant imagine a bottle of anti freeze will cost too much from BMW if need be.

Its been a while since I've bought BMW coolant but seem to remember it only cost about £12 per 1.5l bottle.
 
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