Bought an old BMW M3, filled with regret...

Given what's inside these, I fail to see why the ATE part is still over £30 when other German/EU brands are under £20 for what seems to be the exact same thing! It's not like the ATE one has thicker sheathing, or more robust terminations!

Just one of those things I guess.

It's too crap outside today to be jacking the car up, maybe tomorrow. Wish this weather would sod off. Car hasn't had a good wash in over a month!
 
Ok so this afternoon I had some time to kill and the weather was great, so jacked up the car both ends to check out both speed sensors. Under the M3 the junction box the connector sits in is behind two panels that stop water splashing up and keep the underside flat. These are somewhat annoying to remove...

Anyway, I got both sensors out and they had no signs or damage and I'd say they looked relatively recent, certainly not original items so someone has changed them in previous ownership. They both has a layer of dust/rust from the steel frame they sit in, so I cleaned them both up, as well as the frame. I'm guessing the rust layer acted like iron filings causing erratic readings hence the error codes. I also looked through the hole to the reluctor rings and they both looks nice and silver, no corrosion signs on them. So I have no idea what the scraping noise was from the rear right wheel which I mentioned above. Symptoms pointed to the ring scraping against the sensor, but this appears to not be the case.

Put the sensors back in and fired up Carly to clear the codes. Too knackered to go for a drive to test so will do that mid-week perhaps. If the errors come back the investigation continues.

For reference, these were the error codes:

Screenshot_20190324-184346_Carly%20f%20BMW.jpg


Screenshot_20190324-184341_Carly%20f%20BMW.jpg


Both codes refer to an ABS sensor issue^

Apologies for jumping the gun and thinking it was the ring(s)! All signs pointed to them!

It's been quite fun driving without DSC these past few weeks. By fun I mean no different at all :p
 
They can fail without any signs. Mine went so put it on a code reader to see which wheel. ordered a new one and replaced it in the time it takes to look at them you could have fixed it.

True, I still haven't had time to re-jack the car up to swap out the sensor since my last post, no time this month either what with shoots and other things going on.

I did however have time for a bit of a blast one evening. The carbon fibre airbox is the greatest thing ever invented :cool:

 
So I think after 4 years of regular roof down action, my roof motor has started to play up.

Pretty much this:

Another scenario:

I'm betting it's the plastic cover as per video 2, but I'll take it apart tomorrow and investigate the white plastic cog too where the drive shaft goes in.

Joys!
 
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DIY modding of the hidden fast wireless charging pad is now completed. I've been up the last few hours determined to solve the challenge. I bought a couple of wireless chargers off Amazon and failed the first time as the PCB was too large. The second charger was a stand type which had a removable base cover housing plate which I re-used to make the DIY look professional. Tested in the house and all working nicely. Will fit into the car in the morning :cool:

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Video
 
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I've not yet seen a vent mounted one that looks half decent. All of them as you say seem to be bulky eyesores!

My only issue now if I cannot upgrade to a phone that has a wider width than an S10e any more as no other big phone will fit :p
 
So now my power glovebox lock has failed! The convertibles have one for obvious reasons, think the motor or solenoid bit has worn so it just spins and makes a right racket when locking/unlocking the car. I've disconnected it so it can still be locked manually if I ever want to lock the glovebox. The lock itself is super easy to replace, 2 screws on in the glovebox and it pops right out and unplugs. I'll probably just salvage a working motor from a scrapyard one day when idly passing by or even ebay one but tbh I don't care about auto locking gloveboxes anyway so probably will leave it be.

Other than that...
Here are a few detail shots at nearly half moon mileage @ 118k

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Not too shabby I reckon.
 
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Get your finger away from the indicator stalk :p

I follow the Petrolicious motto and drive tastefully!

Bet it sounds the dogs danglies with the Eventuri intake, I imagine somewhere you have a sound clip of it, i hope?

I've had it installed for around 4 years now so you may have seen an older clip! Even though I'm used to it, there's never a day the burble from the Eventuri doesn't put a smile on my face :D

From inside the engine bay:

From Outside (@20s):
 
ASBO :mad:

Eventuri do a V8 airbox now too. That must sound good. Videos never sounds as good as real

Yup it took them years of being pestered by E92 owners before they finally released one. I think I recall Imran saying that the V8's version has a small benefit other than the induction sound increase because the stock intake is very good as it is for performance. The S54's intake plenum was improved by the Evolve CF plenum couple years after the Eventuri was released. Sadly it's a £3000 option but at least you retain the MAF so no Alpha maps and things needed.

That sounds amazing.

Oh yeah the latest video shows the sound even better from inside the cabin with roof down, was in the motors tube thread but...


Edit*

And on the way to lunch with a friend, might try something out with this sort of series, think it has some scope!

 
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Can anyone explain to me what this white stuff is? It appears to be coming off the edge of this pulley/wheel. I've never seen anything like it, it's just light residue that wipes off but it's always there. The belt seems to be on normally, everything else seems normal too. The wheel bit is new along with all belts and stuff as part of the engine swapout when the bearing shells went on the original engine.


Just a bit odd lol.
 
I emailed Redish before posting too and they just got back to me, it looks like it could b the water pump bearings.

They said:

I'm quite confident that 'spray' residue on the plastic fan cowling (and pulleys) is Antifreeze/coolant mixture.

I've seen this a few times before and it's usually when the Waterpump bearings are failing and allowing a small amount of Antifreeze/coolant mixture past the bearings (i.e a leak), and then it gets forced (centrifugally) outwards and lands on that plastic fan cowling in the engine bay.

Nothing immediately to worry about today, but I would recommend you have it double checked by either us or a local specialist. It will probably require the Waterpump to be changed, that's all.

Genuine BMW Waterpumps are quite pricey around £360 but aftermarket copies are available nowadays for a lot less. Always use Genuine BMW BLUE Antifreeze though (this is important).

As for the other video showing the genuine idle/running of the engine - this is very good. This sounds exactly as I would expect and I cant hear any issues at all there.

I just thought of another test you could try yourself to check those Waterpump bearings: With the engine OFF, reach into the plastic fan blade area and grab one of the fan blades (MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS OFF). Rock the fan up and down and see if you can see the pulley (i.e waterpump) moving?

This is because that fan is screwed on directly to the waterpump/pulley. So if the pulley moves or 'knocks' then you can tell the waterpump bearings are worn and that's what's allowing the very small water seep, which in turn is being thrown outwards onto the engine plastics.

I'll try the test they mention when I'm home :cool:
 
I've had a bit of a browse tonight and came across a cutters thread that contained very good info. Seems OEM is ideal, but Meyle is the preferred choice for the waterpump. A tried and tested brand and often used as OEM. Also at £70 odd it's well priced.

https://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/threads/waterpump-failing.215744/

I won't replace the thermostat as I've had this replaced a couple of years back so there's no need. Just the pump and o-rings/
 
Right so bit of a no man's land this water pump business.

Seems Meyle do not do one for the E46 M3 but they do for the E36 and others. Their waterpump is of a higher standard than OEM with seal break safeguards etc to stop fluid reaching the bearings, and higher quality bearings. Bummer...

Nobody knows who makes the OE water pump for the E46 as there's no stamped branding on it. Not Meyle, not First Line etc etc. But some keen eyes on forums noted that the composite impeller on the OEM pump was the same configuration as the pump made by Saleri who are Italian and also make water pumps for Ferrari etc.

Looked on Saleri's website and drilled down their parts catalogue and found the part:
http://aftermarket.saleri.com/web/catalogo-dettaglio.asp?cod=PA1297&marca=BMW&modello=3 Cabrio (E46) M3 3.2

Then using the SIL part code I found it at FCP Euro with lifetime warranty at $107. I fully expect around £30-£50 on top for import duty however but still a good deal cheaper than buying in the UK.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-water-pump-m3-11517838159

eBay for the same pump is around £200

Before I order tonight, anyone spot anything out the ordinary? I am happy with this even though there have been no reported cases of the cheaper Circoli (ECP own brand) ones failing to date, I don't know what the flow rate of non OE ones are in comparison to the OE one so best keep things original spec.
 
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That's what I thought regarding job itself and how people fit them. I'll be getting it done with the help of another E46 M3 owner who also a mechanic/MOT tester. It's just the damn pump itself I wanted to buy lol. He himself said Circoli (ECP's brand) are OEM for a lot of VAG cars he's worked on and he's never seen an issue but personally he'd pick as close to OEM as possible or better for his car.

I've read a USA forum review on the Saleri pump and no problems to note. I'd expect the E46 M3 pump from them to be just as good as the rest of the range tbh as they are OE for the other models. I'll also be replacing the Orings connecting to the thermostat and depending on the condition of the belt, that too as it's cheap.

I think the above might just be the best option in this case. Quality brand, good price. Cotswold on m3cutters quoted me £275 for the OEM pump on its own, no gasket that goes between it and engine block. Maind ealer wants over £370!!!!!!!!

I suppose 100k miles from an OEM one at £275 is "great value", but nobody out there has had the Saleri one and put 100k on it either even though we can almost be certain that it will last 100k miles or even more. The ///M tax applied to things like this by the dealer is just ridiculous which is why by principle I have always opted for OEM where the tax hasn't been applied or better than OEM with aftermarket where prices are cheaper and products are better.
 
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