Building a supercharged Exocet

Finally managed to release the diff from the power plant frame (PPF).

I ended up getting a crow bar in there and discovered there's a spacer between diff and PPF, so I pulled that out and gained a few cms of clearance. That allowed me to take a big hammer to it and knock the PPF off the bottom of the diff bolt.

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I then discovered that the propshaft will come out the gear box before the rust on the diff to drive shaft mating plates will release.

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But then I finally got the half shafts out and confirmed I have the Fuji LSD I thought I did, not the best but they work, it's done ok so far and the car will be far lighter so hopefully will ease the strain. The supercharger should also not worry it as it's the least stressful power curve you can imagine, just straight lines so no coming on boost as such.

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Good to see you're back working on it dude but as hard as it may be, try not to let people pressure you into working on it (people on here, friends/family popping round etc.) as that can easily screw with MH, even if it's meant well. :)
 
Good to see you're back working on it dude but as hard as it may be, try not to let people pressure you into working on it (people on here, friends/family popping round etc.) as that can easily screw with MH, even if it's meant well. :)

Cheers mate, appreciate the concern but this is all about me wanting to drive this bloody thing, the sun is out and I miss having the MX5, might have to buy one for the interim.

I'm making other changes too, my daughter decided she wanted to learnt to ride at the age of 8 just over a week ago, we're now getting out every day on the bikes and doing 2/3 miles at least so that's helping too.

Plus i changed jobs, 20% pay cut but far less stress. Life isn't so bad at the moment.
 
I figured the fact you're working on it is more down to wanting to drive it than because others have said "is it finished yet?", just mean if people do keep asking that sort of thing, ignore them and do it at your own pace. I do look forward to seeing it done though and I'm jealous of the build (and a garage/space to work in). :p

Glad things are going alright for you. At the end of the day, you/your mental health and family are the most important things, so it's nice that you're focusing on those. :)
 
Hey @wesimmo thought id check in hope your doing well. how is the build coming along. looking into 1 of these myself so have read through yours a couple of times already :)
 
I need to do an update to be fair, made some progress.

Diff should be back from having the bushes pressed out and then I can build the back end back up, should only be a couple of hours. Front end is rolling and I've depowered the steering rack.

Literally just got off the phone to Royal Mail who were supposed to be delivering a new wiring loom right now but it looks like the driver just fancied a pint in the sun and clocked off an hour early!
 
sounds good mate, interested in seeing as presently looking at MX5s and also looking to maybe make a visit and see one in the flesh with a view to getting an order in soon. keep them updates coming when your ready as interested to see them
 
Where are you based? There's an active group of builders on Facebook, I'm sure someone local to you would let you have a look around and a chat if you got in touch.
 
Where are you based? There's an active group of builders on Facebook, I'm sure someone local to you would let you have a look around and a chat if you got in touch.
Ive joined a couple of the groups now fella so will take a little look and see whats about cheers
 
Ok time for an update with pictures.

Next job was to make a steering rack. I had 2 power steering racks as mine was ruined by rust and i got another one for £25, so the good bits from both create 1 non-powered rack.

Obviously all the pipework goes so i just cut it off, removed the nuts you can see below with the remains of pipework and had them welded close. You then remove a seal from the main steering cross shaft, quick go with the grinder and a chisel and that pops off to allow full movement of air / grease within the steering rack outer tube.

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The big nut thing in the middle wasn't coming out, so i actually gave up on this and used the new rack i bought, back to that later....

Then operation clean up started, Ryobi sander, rust remover and grease remover were in heavy rotation.

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Finally had enough bits to rebuild one rack with shiny new tie rod ends too.

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I then spent about 2 hours trying to refit the column pinion into the rack, after much swearing, i discovered there is one tiny difference in the pinions on the racks, one has a 2/3mm larger bearing housing on the end of the column and won't fit to the casing of the other, once i spotted that, bit more cutting and i removed a washer type ring from the receiving casing and it fitted perfectly.

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And finally back on the car to test fit, I'll take it off again at some point, pack it with grease, paint and refit the boots for the ends.

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With the steering rack on, and the front suspension built up, it was time to attack the rear end again after my diff extraction issues..

My brother in law is a Sgt Major in the army and is good friends with one of their mechanics, so i shipped the diff off to him to extract the bushes using a press, there's no way these are burning out as there's a metal collar on the OEM set up that welds itself to the diff over time. Believe me i tried everything but just ended up making it harder when i finally gave it to someone with the right equipment. He ended up using all sorts of air chisels etc to get my bodged attempt side out, the other came out like a dream apparently....still all that and getting the pipework nuts welded up cost me £30 of beer for him and his welder mate.

So in went the new poly bushes.

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And an hour later (BTW IF YOU EVER DO THIS DON'T USE A RUSTY DONOR), the rear end i took literally months to break down was built back up again.

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Those very silver nuts and bolts will be replaced with proper high tensile versions, they're just some B&Q ones i had lying around to test fit it all up and see which bolts I need to buy so i can make one big order, my labeling was less than perfect and I'm discovering which bolts i ruined / cut or lost in the process of rebuilding..

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And finally she was rolling, so flipped the frame onto her

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She emerges for the first time in a year after an extreme winter weight loss regime.

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Grabbed a couple of neighbours and flipped it over and loosely fitted the frame to the chassis, it'll be coming off a few times yet as I fit brake lines etc. So also, I know the wheels are on the wrong way, i just grabbed the nearest one off the pile as i rebuilt.:p

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It's low :D

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TBF those coilovers are fully adjustable on height and damping so i'll find a decent ride height, maybe get some new springs as the ones that are on were destroyed cosmetically by 3 years on the road, and obviously it's half the weight now anyway.

And then obligatory deckchair perched on the frame while i pretend to drive shot...

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The last thing before the next chapter - Wesimmo Teaches Himself Car Electrics - I loosely fitted the brake servos and clutch assembly so i can measure up for brake lines.

I'll keep the ABS stuff MC etc, but as the ABS module does some of the biasing and I've removed that i need a custom set up. So I'll have 2 main lines out the ABS MC, the back will do as per OEM and take one line to the back with the biased splitter. I'll the do the same on the front, there's a guy who makes the kits up so I'm talking to him to work out what i need, the lengths (it'll all be braided), etc. While I wait for that, i got a modular loom from a kit car company, more on that later.

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Thanks. :cool:

So anyway, I'd heard the MX5 wiring is a nightmare, there's all sorts of weird stuff about switched earths that I didn't understand, and others like the fact you need to keep a dimmer switch in the loom otherwise the fuel pump doesn't work (exaggerated for effect, i think).

However the standard loom is huge and heavy, especially with my donor being a fully specced Sport version, so it had wiring for heated seats, powered mirrors, rear screen, electric aeriel, etc that just won't get used.

So, in for a penny and all that i went to a company called Stafford Vehicle Components who do a modular loom for the car side of things. So for the best part of £300 I ordered their front engined modular loom and then hit Amazon for some wiring tools, waterproof connectors, multimeter, etc and set to learning stuff.

First off i laid out the new loom and went around it checking what wiring went from where to where and identifying the various branches, disappointingly they weren't labelled, and though it should have been a quick job working them out, there were a couple of errors on the wiring guide they sent...

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The cluster of fuse boxes and relays in the bottom left were a new thing to learn about, but i got my head round it, it's just like programming little VBA routines with IF statements given the way my mind works.

At the same time i started to unpick how the standard wiring worked using the Haynes manual and the internet to teach myself to read the diagrams and then physically going through and unpicking the standard loom. I didn't need to do that for the build as such, but that's the way i learn, rip things apart and understand the concepts in practical situations.

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Eventually, the loom looked like this.

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Plus another couple of piles for the rear loom and dash loom, above is basically just the heavy electrical work, lights, seats, heated window etc.

So more confident i knew where i was going, i started making up the waterproof quick connects, basically i want to be able to remove any body or ancillaries easily, so for example the rear fuel tank shell will have lights mounted, so i can quickly disconnect them from the main frame where the loom will be routed.

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Still need to work on my crimping..but getting there and the connections have continuity so all good so far.

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The rear lights, indicators, reverse and fog lights all good to go.

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So then it was downstairs to the garage and start putting theory into practice.

First was laying it all out and then connecting it up to the main engine loom and fusebox. I'm hoping like hell that i can just leave the engine side of things, it's running a custom MS3 ECU with sensors for IAT, wideband, etc and was wired in by a local MX5 race team when they supercharged it, so I'm hoping to not have to unpick that.


Again, a little bit of research on the way the battery and earths need to be set up and i got that sorted, then i wired in the steering column controls and tested the lights and got nothing. At this point i realised that the MX5 lighting system works on switched earths, whereas the new loom needs switched positive. Not a problem, after a bit of head scratching I just provided a live feed to the earth in the lighting switch and then the switch effectively gave me a switched positive to use. This does pose 2 problems, i think i'm sending too much juice into the switch now (and don't fancy ripping the column apart to fit more suitable wiring) and because i need a permanent live for the side lights, i've used a permanent live. However IVA says that your main and dip lights must be ignition switched.

So, although i'm yet to do it, what I'm going to do is take a low voltage permanent live into the switch, and then output that to a little relay set up for the side and main lights that will take the required power where it needs to go depending on light switch and ignition switch positions.

However, while keeping a close eye on things, i had to test the progress and to see if my workaround had worked.

 
ooh, progress. In at the deep end when it comes to wiring but will be so-so satisfying when complete. Hope you're feeling better about yourself too, especially with some progress on this.

I'd love a project like this. Can't afford the donor car however so no luck there haha. Just looked at their kit guide on the website, make it look simples!
 
ooh, progress. In at the deep end when it comes to wiring but will be so-so satisfying when complete. Hope you're feeling better about yourself too, especially with some progress on this.

I'd love a project like this. Can't afford the donor car however so no luck there haha. Just looked at their kit guide on the website, make it look simples!

I've made this a lot of work, through inexperience/incompetence and using a poor donor. If you strip it cleanly, leave fuel and brake lines and electrics in place, you could cut out about all the time and effort I've spent less a few weeks....

As for the cost, again I've not scrimped so I'm not going to say it's cheap, but you can pick up a decent MK2 donor for £100s, or even stripped skates that people have given up on. It's the bodies that rot because they're poorly designed so the running gear can often be fine but the car will need £1,500/£2,000 worth of welding and paint so they get scrapped.

But yeah, still not a happy go lucky, skipping around type of chap, but better thanks!
 
Depending how much time, effort and cost you want to put into the loom grab some decent nylon cable braid and Raychem DR-25 heat shrink (or cheaper adhesive lined heat shrink)

Those and a dymo labeller that does clear heat shrink both really finish things off and make identifying things later down the line much easier

http://polevolt.co.uk do reasonably priced options for both
 
Depending how much time, effort and cost you want to put into the loom grab some decent nylon cable braid and Raychem DR-25 heat shrink (or cheaper adhesive lined heat shrink)

Those and a dymo labeller that does clear heat shrink both really finish things off and make identifying things later down the line much easier

http://polevolt.co.uk do reasonably priced options for both

Cheers I'll have a look at that, at the moment I'm still pulling too much out to do much proper fixing in!

But yeah there's a guy in our group who used the same loom and his wiring tray looks brilliant. All labelled up and barely anything in there compared to the guys running the standard loom. It also means you can fit a nice Varley Red Top battery in there too, you obviously don't need much battery as it basically starts it and that's it, there's no other electrics, except the lights, fuel pump and ECU/engine.

Though I will be using the spare 12v branch on the loom to power one of these at the rear for future Go Pro type power and phone charger. Then I'll use one of the redundant branches for one in the front too, I expect on drives out and track days I'll be needing Bluetooth comms if I have a passenger and sat nav so I'm going to make sure its all wired in convenient places so cables aren't all over the shop.

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I've also got the bug with electrics...

All sorts of ideas going round so I've picked up another Arduino board and a relay module to get up to speed on that side so when winter comes I can look at onboard comms, digital dash / dials etc.

I'm thinking about how I might use the squirter switch on the stalk as a push to talk for example. :D
 
One thing to be careful of is the growing number of things you’ve put together ‘temporarily’ with the best intentions of correcting them later. Experience will tell you that on a long term project these things have a habit of being forgotten about and end up becoming permanent. Make sure you have a very comprehensive list of the things you’ll need to re-do and ensure you tick them all off before driving it.
 
One thing to be careful of is the growing number of things you’ve put together ‘temporarily’ with the best intentions of correcting them later. Experience will tell you that on a long term project these things have a habit of being forgotten about and end up becoming permanent. Make sure you have a very comprehensive list of the things you’ll need to re-do and ensure you tick them all off before driving it.

Good advice to be fair.

It should be hard to miss anything I've done so far. For example most of the bolts will need covering for the IVA and I'll go through the Haynes manual to torque everything to spec as a check list. But I'll definitely add these sorts of things to the list of bolts I've got on my whiteboard in the garage.
 
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