[Buildlog] GAME HARD, FOLD HARDER

Tattysnuc · 8 Jan 2013 at 09:52

Sorry, I don;t follow with the:
"If the bottom colour isn't damaged badly or dented you can suffice by just making the old paint look frosty, then clean with some degreasant whatever. I used terpentine. Then just apply a thin layer, wait 20 mins, another thin layer, and another time and this was the result. "

comment. Can you explain again?

Hukkel · 8 Jan 2013 at 10:27

Tattysnuc said:
Sorry, I don;t follow with the:
"If the bottom colour isn't damaged badly or dented you can suffice by just making the old paint look frosty, then clean with some degreasant whatever. I used terpentine. Then just apply a thin layer, wait 20 mins, another thin layer, and another time and this was the result. "

comment. Can you explain again?

My appologies, English is not my native language.

Some people think when painting they need to sand untill you can see the bare metal. Get it all off. Which is just not needed. If the current paint on it doesn't have big scratches in it or dents (so the material is not damaged but quite flat) you can suffice with using a small grid paper such as 240 or a bit less. Just so you remove a thin layer of paint. The paint will have a "frosted" look after that. It will be enough. Just clean it afterwards with something that is degreasing. I used terpentine for it. But lots of stuff can be used. When it is clean just spraypaint it with a thin layer, then wait about 20 minutes and spray a thin layer over it again without cleaning or sanding. Do this 3 times and the photos I just showed you are the result.

I hope I explained it better now. If there is something you still don't understand just tell me.

----------------

Alrighty, time for a new small update. Since I got the advice a rad with no fans is pretty muchy useless I went and installed the fans in the top. Man I love those fans. I also couldn't help myself, I had to testfit stuff just because I could even though I will need to take it apart again for sleeving of wiring and such. I like how it ended up. I also made some holes in the midplate for wiring behind the mobo plate and room for loads of wires and tubing inside the pillar. After that painting it black. But I forgot to take picture of it. The top grill looks pretty much flush now. There will be a cover over de 5,25 bays side. So no worries. Things are SLOWLY starting to take shape. But I need to buy me that mobo soon and some fittings

BTW the MDPC package is only partly for this build. The sleeving is for a PSU I am sleeving for someone else.

hugobosslives · 8 Jan 2013 at 12:33

Got a really good build coming along here. Those orange on black fans look so good im tempted to swap my colour scheme to something like it haha.

I await futher progress

Tattysnuc · 8 Jan 2013 at 16:15

Hukkel said:
Some people think when painting they need to sand untill you can see the bare metal. Get it all off. Which is just not needed. If the current paint on it doesn't have big scratches in it or dents (so the material is not damaged but quite flat) you can suffice with using a small grid paper such as 240 or a bit less. Just so you remove a thin layer of paint. The paint will have a "frosted" look after that. It will be enough. Just clean it afterwards with something that is degreasing. I used terpentine for it. But lots of stuff can be used. When it is clean just spraypaint it with a thin layer, then wait about 20 minutes and spray a thin layer over it again without cleaning or sanding. Do this 3 times and the photos I just showed you are the result.

No need to apologise - thank you for explaining to a thicky like me

All perfectly clear now.

Tattysnuc · 8 Jan 2013 at 16:16

I'm intrigued to see why the res and fan controllers have been mounted facing inwards...

Hukkel · 8 Jan 2013 at 20:13

hugobosslives said:
Got a really good build coming along here. Those orange on black fans look so good im tempted to swap my colour scheme to something like it haha.

I await futher progress

I love orange. I now see orange builds all over the net. When these fans are on I like them even more. But that will be a few updates down the line. I have quite some building to do first.

Thank you for your comment!

Tattysnuc said:
No need to apologise - thank you for explaining to a thicky like me All perfectly clear now.

haha no problem at all. Glad I could help.

Tattysnuc said:
I'm intrigued to see why the res and fan controllers have been mounted facing inwards...

I wanted the front to be as clean as possible and I really like the stock look of the TJ07. It is so clean. The anodised aluminum 5,25 inch bay covers are really nice. So the idea was to make all parts face inwards instead. This also means no visible wiring and tubing in the PC. At least not at the back of the bays. They will all be in the bay-tower/pillar. Invisible to the eye.
Now they stick out as you can see, but there will be a custom bay side cover made up which will also stick out a tad to fit nicely against the covers, fancontroller and reservoir.

Appleby · 8 Jan 2013 at 20:53

This is really shaping up to be awesome and one of my favorite builds I've seen. Very similar to what I was planning!

Are you planning to install a slim 360mm rad in the top? How did you mount the grill?

I also like what you have done with the reverse mount XSPC reservoir. In fact I did exactly the same in a Tj11 demonstration system that I built!

Keep up the good work and keep us updated. I can't wait to see this one finished!

Hukkel · 8 Jan 2013 at 21:05

Appleby said:
This is really shaping up to be awesome and one of my favorite builds I've seen. Very similar to what I was planning!

Are you planning to install a slim 360mm rad in the top? How did you mount the grill?

I also like what you have done with the reverse mount XSPC reservoir. In fact I did exactly the same in a Tj11 demonstration system that I built!

Keep up the good work and keep us updated. I can't wait to see this one finished!

Thank you very much!

I wanted to fit a rad there, but there just isn't enough room. The grill takes up about 6mm under the roof. It is fitted like the stock one, my last update shows that. Where the washers have been put the grill is mounted with screws.

A TJ11 demonstation build *drools*. I'd like to build that alright.

Appleby · 8 Jan 2013 at 21:13

That's a shame, you could get some serious radiator area bit I suppose it doesn't really matter with lower power and cooler components. Do you have any plans for the mid plate or is it staying as is?

Here is the tj11 mid-build. You can see I had the same idea as you with you XSPC bay res (x2) (this was a completely rush job, I was given 2 weeks!)

Tattysnuc · 8 Jan 2013 at 21:30

Hukkel said:
I wanted the front to be as clean as possible and I really like the stock look of the TJ07. It is so clean. The anodised aluminum 5,25 inch bay covers are really nice. So the idea was to make all parts face inwards instead. This also means no visible wiring and tubing in the PC. At least not at the back of the bays. They will all be in the bay-tower/pillar. Invisible to the eye.
Now they stick out as you can see, but there will be a custom bay side cover made up which will also stick out a tad to fit nicely against the covers, fancontroller and reservoir.

Very Nice. Are we to assume that there will be no side permanently fitted to this build, or at the very least some sort of Window cut into the side panel?

Hukkel · 8 Jan 2013 at 21:53

Appleby said:
That's a shame, you could get some serious radiator area bit I suppose it doesn't really matter with lower power and cooler components. Do you have any plans for the mid plate or is it staying as is?

Here is the tj11 mid-build. You can see I had the same idea as you with you XSPC bay res (x2) (this was a completely rush job, I was given 2 weeks!)

Yeah I would have really liked having one on top as well. Maybe in another project I will use an matx mobo, lower it so I can use the top for a rad as well.

Oh there are many custom panels in planning atm. I have a very special idea for a midplate. I have to admit I have seen it somewhere else first. But it is so amazing I cannot NOT use it in this build.

Tattysnuc said:
Very Nice. Are we to assume that there will be no side permanently fitted to this build, or at the very least some sort of Window cut into the side panel?

Both sides will have a sidepanel with a window. I have special plans for the other side even. But yeah there will be a sidepanel with a big window. But everything you see through that window must be clean.

Tattysnuc · 9 Jan 2013 at 12:57

Out of curiosity - how are you planning to fill and drain the loop?

Hukkel · 9 Jan 2013 at 14:03

Well the reservoir has a top opening, I will temporarily fit a hose there that goes out the front and up a bit. I can poor coolant in there. When the loop is full I can take it off and close it.

I will make a drain tab on the lowest point, so basically a T-section with a tab on it to open and close it. End it with a 1/4 part. When I need to drain I will fit a hose to it and drain it.

Sounds plausible?

Tattysnuc · 9 Jan 2013 at 19:59

That's exactly what I'm doing. I've had problems as my 800D has only 5x5.25 bays, and all are occupied - I've had to butcher the fan controller in order to get access to the top of my Koolance bay-res.

Hukkel · 10 Jan 2013 at 08:20

Tattysnuc said:
That's exactly what I'm doing. I've had problems as my 800D has only 5x5.25 bays, and all are occupied - I've had to butcher the fan controller in order to get access to the top of my Koolance bay-res.

I placed the res a bit lower than the top on purpose. That way it should be easier to fill it from the top. And a drain should be on the lowest point of the case.

I have actually thought about making a fillport in the top. But I fear it will destroy the clean look of the case.

Tattysnuc · 10 Jan 2013 at 10:09

Hukkel said:
I placed the res a bit lower than the top on purpose. That way it should be easier to fill it from the top. And a drain should be on the lowest point of the case.

I have actually thought about making a fillport in the top. But I fear it will destroy the clean look of the case.

I know what you mean. Are there no countersunk fill ports on the market?

Hukkel · 10 Jan 2013 at 11:38

Well some fillports look really well, but it's still not the same as a flat piece of metal you know.

Hukkel · 10 Jan 2013 at 11:41

Time for a small update.

I had this idea for 2 SSDs. One being a Samsung one (black and orange duh) and the other being the same but put it in a new casing. Full acryl with Samsung engraved and finally (if doable) 2 or 3 LED holes in the side to add either orange or white leds and highlight the brandname.

How do you guys think it worked out? Be honest. They will feature on the back of the mobo plate side by side. More picture of them when they are fitted and the leds have been tried.

Thanks a lot for helping me out Marcel! I know it cost you quite some blood, sweat and tears to get them done the way I envisioned it! Top work!

www.robocnc.nl

And I finally received my package that was sent by the most handsome man in the world :thumb:

bearing the most beautiful name in the world. Thank you SO MUCH for helping me out man. :drunken:

Two i7-3770ks and 2 packages of 2*4GB Samsung low voltage, low profile ram. In other words; THE overclocking ram. One cpu is for me, one is for a friend and all the ram is mine. For this project

mag1caltrev0r · 10 Jan 2013 at 12:16

Personally, I think the Samsung SSD case looks great anyway. For something 'different', how about CNC'ing a block of aluminium and then anodising it?

Hukkel · 10 Jan 2013 at 12:50

mag1caltrev0r said:
Personally, I think the Samsung SSD case looks great anyway. For something 'different', how about CNC'ing a block of aluminium and then anodising it?

I think it would look great, but the original case already looks like an anodised aluminum. I just tried something different. I can always change it. But he who does not try does not succeed

I guess I will see how it looks when the leds are in and both are mounted behind the mobo plate.