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Calling all Gurus, I'm in desperate help here, please come in and help regarding GPU issues.

Not unless I cut it mate, with it on, it fouls the waterblock

Before I do any cutting of the stock cooler, I need to make sure it is going to definitely work. obviously once I cut it, there's no going back. Could have 2 cards that become pointless water cooled and unable to go back to stock cooler on air.
 
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When it black screens can you recover or is it completely crashed at that point? Have you tried having DP and DVI connected at the same time, and when it black screens on DP switching over to DVI on your monitor to see if there is still output?

I'm wondering if the stock cooler/frame is providing a ground route to the displayport connecter that they couldn't fit a trace for on the PCB. Is there any evidence that the stock cooler/frame touches the DP connector housing?
 
TonyTurbo78 said:
Not unless I cut it mate, with it on, it fouls the waterblock

Before I do any cutting of the stock cooler, I need to make sure it is going to definitely work. obviously once I cut it, there's no going back. Could have 2 cards that become pointless water cooled and unable to go back to stock cooler on air.
Click to expand...

Just going through process of elimination mate, test it on original cooler without the plate, see if it black screens without it?

You would need to be very careful you don't get the cooler coming into contact with the exposed pcb though.
 
gthlm said:
When it black screens can you recover or is it completely crashed at that point? Have you tried having DP and DVI connected at the same time, and when it black screens on DP switching over to DVI on your monitor to see if there is still output?

I'm wondering if the stock cooler/frame is providing a ground route to the displayport connecter that they couldn't fit a trace for on the PCB. Is there any evidence that the stock cooler/frame touches the DP connector housing?
Click to expand...

When it black screens I simply have to change the screen input to hdmi or dvi to get the picture back. I can then choose display port again and the picture is back. would it not give me black screens when sat on the desktop also though if that was the case? Interesting post and interesting point about the housing. The black plate that sits on the pcb as well as the stock cooler does fasten around the DP connector, I'll have to have a closer look this evening.

tommybhoy said:
Just going through process of elimination mate, test it on original cooler without the plate, see if it black screens without it?

You would need to be very careful you don't get the cooler coming into contact with the exposed pcb though.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I'll check closely later Tommy. Thx for awesome ideas guys.
 
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gthlm said:
When it black screens can you recover or is it completely crashed at that point? Have you tried having DP and DVI connected at the same time, and when it black screens on DP switching over to DVI on your monitor to see if there is still output?

I'm wondering if the stock cooler/frame is providing a ground route to the displayport connecter that they couldn't fit a trace for on the PCB. Is there any evidence that the stock cooler/frame touches the DP connector housing?
Click to expand...

Agreed that's why I said for Tony to send some pics up of current config with blocks and with the stock cooling. I think you are right it's a grounding issue that the black plate provides when bolted on.

The only other thing it could be is from my pics highlighting the pad areas that require greater cooling for the when the displayport is in use..
Which are the two chips in red near the display connector end and the vrms in Green that Tony put a heatsink on, which might not be upto the job and the plate works better.




Power side of things that aren't cooled when water cooler block on are here too,
 
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I did put the little thermal pads on those points last night but still got the black screens. It'll be an easy job to modify the stock cooler or the backplates but I need to be sure before cutting them. Will put the stock cooler on tonight without the black plate if that's possible and test before anything.

It genuinely does feel like we are homing in on the problem area tjough doesn't it...here's hoping anyway.
 
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TonyTurbo78 said:
I did put the little thermal pads on those points last night but still got the black screens. It'll be an easy job to modify the stock cooler or the backplates but I need to be sure before cutting them. Will put the stock cooler on tonight without the black plate if that's possible and test before anything.

It genuinely does feel like we are homing in on the problem area tjough doesn't it...here's hoping anyway.
Click to expand...

Have you tried talking to either MSI/EK about the issue Tony? I'm assuming EK may have seen this before with this type of block?
 
I usually use full cover waterblock, I dont see why it would overheat in this configuration, especially if you isolate a single card and direct a powerful fan onto the pcb ( and possibly underclock )

I think this will turn out that its MSIs fault, my brother has an MSI laptop that got so hot that it burned him everytime he used it
 
1kiwi said:
Have you tried talking to either MSI/EK about the issue Tony? I'm assuming EK may have seen this before with this type of block?
Click to expand...

Emailed both EK and msi last might detailing everything, not heard anything back yet but it's still early. Was planning on ringing them later after work as well.

Why couldn't EK just make a full bloody cover for this card, it's beyond me. It's the most popular 390 out there, I'd love to know their reason for not making a full cover when they've made full covers for other 390 cards I think.
 
Ok, got the cards out and blocks off. I'm not sure I can put the stock cooler on without the black mounting plate. Really worried the cooler will sag and short out on the pcb or a component.

Any ideas, do you need pics to advise me better.
 
TonyTurbo78 said:
Ok, got the cards out and blocks off. I'm not sure I can put the stock cooler on without the black mounting plate. Really worried the cooler will sag and short out on the pcb or a component.

Any ideas, do you need pics to advise me better.
Click to expand...

Is the cooler shroud mounted to the metel silver heatsink, not the vrm plate, if so just use the 4 screws to mount it together, to test if DP works.
 
I've used a piece of paper on top of pcb while mounting coolers before, then carefully pulled it away after you get the 4 screws in, then tighten-make sure you don't sit card down upside down making sure it rests on the cooler.
 
TonyTurbo78 said:
snip
Click to expand...

Hawaii cards do have a weakness with DisplayPort using 60htz @2160p. This only normally appears when using high core clockspeeds like 1200mhz+ and will result in a blackscreen where the signal is not properly output. This can be sorted by switching to 30htz @2160p.

I am not sure how this helps you but it may come in useful somewhere.

I hope you are up and running soon.:)
 
I'm only using 1440p kaap and these cards were previously fine running 144hz at 1440 over DP on stock cooler before the WC project. I've managed to fit the black plate as well as the waterblocks via a little cutting lol. Its go big or go home time because I'm getting sweet FA help from EK and MSI.

Just got home from work, will fill the loop for like the 6th time and try again.
 
No full block covers for msi 390's or else obviously I would have bought a full block cover.

I'm actually quite disappointed with EK. They should not have said the thermosphere block will work great on the msi 390. I get the impression they have no idea the msi 390 pcb is bigger than the 290 or reference and they just appear to be saying it'll fit just fine as the design is essentially the same as 290. Nowhere did they mention fittings to the inlets on the blocks would be half covered because of the wider pcb. They provided me with incorrect bridge type when I provided them my motherboard and gpu so I've 2 bridges here now doing nothing. They've not replied to any of my emails asking for help in this matter, overall really poor customer service.
 
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Kaapstad said:
Hawaii cards do have a weakness with DisplayPort using 60htz @2160p. This only normally appears when using high core clockspeeds like 1200mhz+ and will result in a blackscreen where the signal is not properly output. This can be sorted by switching to 30htz @2160p.

I am not sure how this helps you but it may come in useful somewhere.

I hope you are up and running soon.:)
Click to expand...

not relevant to this thread, but I run folding@home and my Hawaii based gpu crashed quite often and I changed myn to 30hz and its stopped crashing

cheers :D
 
Didn't know there was one here.

Thanks for the heads up, will drop him a message :)

On a side not, cut the black plate so I could secure it back on how it was, but with the waterblock, it's still blackscreening after a few seconds gaming or benching with only displayport. It's getting ridiculous now, just about to chin off a thousand pound project here. Not getting any help at all from EK or MSI. Just about to email the above MSI rep, hopefully at least get some sort of response.

Hey Kaap, I know we live within 10 minutes of each other, fancy trying to help me out a little here?? I'm really struggling man.
 
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