CBR600 F3 (96) Clutch question

MowyTone

MowyTone

MowyTone

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I've been told my clutch springs are going (will move the bike forward if I rev in first with clutch fully in). As I don't know what the rest of the clutch is like I was toying with changing the friction plates at the same time.

My question is what springs and what plates have people found to be good/bad? I can see there are several different types: performance, street racing, racing - but I have no idea which will be best?

Also it seems there are only heavy duty springs about? I know I wouldnt have used the heavy duty on the SV as people hated them, but I don't know if its the same for the CBR?

The bike is for daily commute and play
 
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Heavy duty tend to be stiffer,so that nice light clutch lever will be a little harder to pull in,ebc sell some standard springs

If the springs are stretched it will cause the clutch to drag
 
How many miles has the clutch done?

Have you tried adjusting the springs?
And I would always go with Genuine springs as a replacement, specially for a daily bike.
 
Who told you that ?
if the springs where going it would slip while riding, not drag with the lever in.
it sounds more like an adjustment is needed as the rod that pushes the clutch back plate isn't moving the back plate enough, so you have drag.
with the clutch lever in, the push rod is opening the clutch.
It is impossible for the back plate to move back on its own causing drag, you have to release the lever so the rod moves and the springs close the back plate or the lever isn't moving the rod enough in the first place causing the drag.

wazza300 said:
Heavy duty tend to be stiffer,so that nice light clutch lever will be a little harder to pull in,ebc sell some standard springs

If the springs are stretched it will cause the clutch to drag
Click to expand...
How can they stretch when their under compression all the time ?
 
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wazza300 said:
I thought they went weaker and less movement as you pulled in the clutch=drag slightly idk
Click to expand...
if they went weaker it will slip because they cant hold the back plate closed.

the springs have no bearing on the movement of the back plate other than resistance.
the rod that runs though the shaft moves the back plate away if that rod cant move it back enough to free the plates you have drag.
weak or strong springs, that rod moves the same distance if the cable is adjusted right, it just feels harder to pull the lever back with the heavy springs.
say the rod moves 10mm with the lever in, the springs cant make it only move 8mm, the only thing that makes the rod move less(meaning drag) is wear on the cable and the worm/arm the cable is connected too.
 
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I was told that by a mechanic who watched me replicate the problem.

He explained that after a while the springs lose resistance under pressure and when revving (in my case to 6-7K) the springs cannot hold against the spin created by those kind of revs and the clutch starts to engage.

It seems to be slipping slightly at the top end of the revs as well. Probably going to replace the friction plates or all plates and springs while it's being done.

The clutch cable has about 1-2mm free play on the cable before pulling the cable. I don't know how old the cable or the clutch is as I've only had the bike a month and a bit. However I already have a replacement cable just in case.

I've cut a deal with this guy as he has taken my knackered SV engine in so will do the clutch work for £20 (I'm buying the parts).

Note he has already changed a rear tyre for me for free in the above agreement


edit : @ShakenNstirred so what you are saying is if the cable has stretched too much, and the clutch is not fully disengaging hence the drag?
 
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MowyTone said:
I was told that by a mechanic who watched me replicate the problem.

He explained that after a while the springs lose resistance under pressure and when revving (in my case to 6-7K) the springs cannot hold against the spin created by those kind of revs and the clutch starts to engage.

It seems to be slipping slightly at the top end of the revs as well. Probably going to replace the friction plates or all plates and springs while it's being done.

The clutch cable has about 1-2mm free play on the cable before pulling the cable. I don't know how old the cable or the clutch is as I've only had the bike a month and a bit. However I already have a replacement cable just in case.

I've cut a deal with this guy as he has taken my knackered SV engine in so will do the clutch work for £20 (I'm buying the parts).

Note he has already changed a rear tyre for me for free in the above agreement


edit : @ShakenNstirred so what you are saying is if the cable has stretched too much, and the clutch is not fully disengaging hence the drag?
Click to expand...

yeah but the rod holds the back plate out not the springs, the springs are there to close it, but only when you release the lever.
anyway. why you revving to that high with the clutch in lol , I see no need for it.
who's to say all cbr6's don't do that with the clutch in at those rev ?
I had a cbr6 but never in 6 years did I rev it that high with the clutch in lol
as its slipping at high revs the clutch and maybe the springs need replacing anyway, as it will only slip more n more
 
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ShakenNstirred said:
yeah but the rod holds the back plate out not the springs, the springs are there to close it, but only when you release the lever.
anyway. why you revving to that high with the clutch in lol , I see no need for it
as its slipping at high revs the clutch and maybe the springs need replacing anyway, as it will only slip more n more
Click to expand...

I found the problem when a lorry was creeping next to me getting closer and closer at the lights. I revved up the bike to make my presence known :)
 
MowyTone said:
I found the problem when a lorry was creeping next to me getting closer and closer at the lights. I revved up the bike to make my presence known :)
Click to expand...

lol.
thinking about it I can only think the back plate is rocking on the push rod as it does sit in the centre of the plate, but maybe that's something the cbr6 does if it revved that high with the clutch in.
what mileage is it anyway ?
mine was up to 37k with nothing wrong with the clutch.
my present bike(ZR7) its clutch was slipping at 34k
 
I would take the clutch inspection cap off and take a look, you can usually adjust 3 screws to make it slip more or less.
 
MowyTone said:
I was told that by a mechanic who watched me replicate the problem.

He explained that after a while the springs lose resistance under pressure and when revving (in my case to 6-7K) the springs cannot hold against the spin created by those kind of revs and the clutch starts to engage.
Click to expand...

What you have there is a "mechanic" that has no idea what he is talking about. Don't let him anywhere near you bike.

A dragging clutch on a bike is caused by:
  1. Incorrect cable/linkage adjustment. By far the most common problem.
  2. Warped steel plates i.e. the ones that go between the friction plates.
  3. Notched clutch basket. Anything with 20k+ miles will have some level of notching, but if they get really bad they won't allow the clutch stack to separate fully when you pull the clutch in.
  4. Incorrect oil (viscosity too high) or overfilling can cause dragging, but presumably you haven't been dumping random oil into it?

Start with 1. Ensure the cable itself is in good condition and not sticking, since that will make it difficult to adjust correctly. Progress onto the others if that doesn't fix it.
 
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Dogbreath said:
What you have there is a "mechanic" that has no idea what he is talking about. Don't let him anywhere near you bike.
Click to expand...

This is what has been confusing me since thread start as he says a "Mechanic" said that & I'm like What the **** :confused:
 
FYI all bike clutches drag, it's swimming in oil. Maybe it's worn or simply needs adjustment, changing the clutch isn't the hardest job in the world and you can generally do it without even dropping the oil if you lean it over a bit more.
 
acemastr said:
FYI all bike clutches drag, it's swimming in oil.
Click to expand...

All wet clutches drag a little, but they shouldn't make e.g. getting in and out of neutral a problem, or move the bike forward with the clutch in.

I should add another thing to my list though: overfilling with oil will increase drag.
 
Bike has done 55K miles, so might be at the end of it's 2nd clutch?

I have some paper work with the bike, I'll see if any of it shows any clutch work
 
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