Check my home network plan for mistakes

Soldato
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I like the Connectix keystone system - basically tool free and you can assemble them out of the frame then just plug them in whatever order you want.

Connectix also make a vertical entry low profile CAT5/CAT6 Socket that gives you 2 or 4 RJ45 in a single-gang box. I especially like these for domestic installs because you can walk past them or hoover next to them with no fear of smashing the cable through the faceplate.

https://www.connectixcablingsystems...4-cat5e-ccs-4000-series-vertical-outlets.html
 
Soldato
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Ohh, they look pretty good, I like the vertical sockets.

So, if I get those, does that mean I could run cables from the exposed floorboards straight up a narrow channel in the plasterboard and into this box, mounted on the wall, without having to dig out any recess in the wall? To make it easier to fill and finish afterwards? Or even straight up the wall in a small cable cover?

Part of my issue is that the walls are already finished in the bedrooms upstairs, so I don't want the builders to completely destroy them by doing this if it can't be refinished okay afterwards.
 
Soldato
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Yes, I use 25mm square section surface mount conduit to surface-route the cables into the top of that box. For very simple networks I wouldn’t always use a patch panel but if you’re looking at 16-plus connections all routed back to one place then patch panels start to make a lot of sense.
 
Soldato
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So, if I get those, does that mean I could run cables from the exposed floorboards straight up a narrow channel in the plasterboard and into this box, mounted on the wall, without having to dig out any recess in the wall? To make it easier to fill and finish afterwards? Or even straight up the wall in a small cable cover?

If you install backing boxes properly there's nothing to fill and finish. The faceplate you attach has enough overhang to completely hide the backing box. You'd have to really butcher things to have any damage visible.

If you're lucky and it's a hollow wall or dot-and-dab then there's often a void you can pass the cables through without damaging the wall at all.
 
Associate
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Do you guys really think I need a repeater or additional wifi access point upstairs? The router has been located in the lounge at the marked spot for the last year or so and we've not had any wifi issues in any room of the house or the garden. And it's only a basic stock virgin router, it's the superhub 3 IIRC.
Even if you don't install APs run some cable to the locations.
Today your virgin router is fine, tomorrow who knows.
 
Soldato
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I like the Connectix keystone system - basically tool free and you can assemble them out of the frame then just plug them in whatever order you want.

Connectix also make a vertical entry low profile CAT5/CAT6 Socket that gives you 2 or 4 RJ45 in a single-gang box. I especially like these for domestic installs because you can walk past them or hoover next to them with no fear of smashing the cable through the faceplate.

https://www.connectixcablingsystems...4-cat5e-ccs-4000-series-vertical-outlets.html

I ordered a few of the 2 gang and 4 gang, should be arriving tomorrow.

Hopefully the builders aren't too annoyed after I emailed them the last minute wiring plan late last night and an updated one today! :o

Got a crimping tool kit with tester, punchdown tool and stripper (the wire kind, not the naked kind)
Also ordered a pack of RJ45 ends for the cable in the cupboard and cameras
Ordered another 100m of cat5e too.

Will have to think about what switch to get and what camera system. As long as we can test the wires after laying them I should be able to hold back on that for a bit.

I guess I'll need a 24 port switch now that I've got 20 wires planned! :eek:

https://i.imgur.com/DkFrww4.png
 
Soldato
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You only need a switch with capacity for the ports you're going to actually use.

Is that from “Zen and the Art of Networking”? :)

While I totally agree, the number of 20 port switches on the market is very limited compared to the 24-ports which are plentiful. And it doesn’t leave him anything for sticking a LAGG’d NAS in the cupboard with the switch.

I just go straight for the 48-port Unifi switches these days because I need the 10GbE SFP+ ports. It’s a shocking waste of 1GbE ports but I need the 10GbE uplinks.
 
Soldato
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His original plan was for having only a very few ports. The sort of network that'd be handled by an eight port switch with a couple of POE ports.

He was talked up into installing many more ports for 'future proofing and redundancy'.

Unless he's suddenly acquired a substantially more wired devices the majority of the ports aren't going to be used at the moment.

A 24 port switch may still be the best option, but they do look a bit sad if only six ports are lit.
 
Soldato
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Hmm, that's a good point actually.

For immediate use I'll likely only be using 7 of the ports.

Well, immediately I'll likely only be using 2. One for the router, and one for a smart TV box in a single bedroom.

Once I get the 4 cam system that will be another 5 ports, 4 for the cams, and one for the recording box.

That that's 7 in total.

I could probably get away with an 8 port switch for the time being to save having for fork out straight away for a fully connected system and sort that further down the line.
 
Soldato
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You may find that it makes sense to have a small PoE switch for the cameras (and wireless access points if you have them), and another standard switch for everything else.
 
Soldato
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I bought a cable testing kit for cable prep and finishing

"RJ45 RJ11 Ethernet Cable UTP SSTP FTP Kit Crimper Crimping Tool with Stripper Network Cat5e Cat6 Cat7 Tester Tool Kit Punch Down 2x Screwdrivers Oubao & Black Stripper 10 Modular Plug Connector"

(Cheap, and the cable tester that it came with didn't work, I've just picked up a seperate cable tester from screwfix, which does seem to work)

It comes with a punchdown for connecting the cable to the sockets, and a crimping tool for adding plugs to the end of the wire.

It also comes with a cable testing kit. What's the best way of testing the cables that I connect to the wall outlets?

Of course the cupboard end will have RJ45 plugs that I can connect to one end of the testing kit, but for the wall sockets should I just plug a short pretested cable to complete the circuit into the other end of the cable tester?
 
Soldato
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Connectix are a safe bet.

I've remembered that for some reason you're using F/UTP cable so matching faceplates and patch panels are going to be relatively expensive.
 
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