Corsair H50 Water Cooling Kit

sponge999 said:
I dont really know much, but what i do know is the H50 radiator performs much better as an intake and not exhaust. have you got any other fan exhausting on your case?? or is that the sole 1.
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So in my Antec 1200 it would be better to have it as intake cos of the big exhaust fan above it?

Just skimmed through this thread really and some say push/pull whilst others say intake. Seen a corsair installation video as well that says it should be intake. Suppose I could always try both if I have the time.

Ordered one and it's coming tomorrow, the other half is out shopping with her mate on Sat so that gives me a day to play about with it (and fit the H50) :)
 
as you have a 1200, why dont you try making one of the 2 fans on the back an intake fan whilst the other stays as an exhaust, (preferably the lower one as the intake) and attaching the radiator to that??
 
zom247 said:
So in my Antec 1200 it would be better to have it as intake cos of the big exhaust fan above it?

Just skimmed through this thread really and some say push/pull whilst others say intake. Seen a corsair installation video as well that says it should be intake. Suppose I could always try both if I have the time.

Ordered one and it's coming tomorrow, the other half is out shopping with her mate on Sat so that gives me a day to play about with it (and fit the H50) :)
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Just a quick clarification there. Push/pull can simply means 2 fans attached to the radiator, one either side. The direction can be still "intake" or "exhaust" for push/pull.
 
Guest2 said:
Yes, my case is antec sonata 2 so it only has one exhaust fan.
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In that case i would keep the fan as an exhaust, but in a push pull config with the rad to expell the air quickly. Your temperatures may suffer by 2-3 C, as an exhaust, but nothing major. Unless you have any other fans you could use as an exhaust, or mount one somewhere if you have any available fan spaces?
 
sponge999 said:
In that case i would keep the fan as an exhaust, but in a push pull config with the rad to expell the air quickly. Your temperatures may suffer by 2-3 C, as an exhaust, but nothing major. Unless you have any other fans you could use as an exhaust, or mount one somewhere if you have any available fan spaces?
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Thats what i'm saying . The person i bought it off realised he broke the corsair fan so is just sending it with one. I have now sorted my system so other fans are directed to exhaust.

Would be ok with the radiator against the back of the case (no exhaust fan) with just the noctua fan exhausting over the radiator? (but no fan exhausting behind the radiator)
 
well if you have other fans directed to exhaust, you really should connect an intake fan to the back of the case with the radiator attached to that fan. H-50 was designed to perform as an intake. But if you have to use the setup you described, it would be absoultely fine, but temperatures will be better with intake, as you are blowing fresh cool air onto the radiator, instead of warm, used air. Try both setups and compare the temps. i would actually be interested in seeing those results.
 
HornyRhino said:
Static pressure 2.60
Akasa AK-FN057 Apache Super Silent 120mm Fan - 4 Pin PWM which 2 of these can be connected via a Akasa AK-CB002 PWM Fan Splitter Cable
which can be connected to the 4pin fan header on most boards for pushpull.

Static pressure 5.90
120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpm Cooling Fan 3-pin <<<<<<<<<<<<<<< just bought 2 to try out see if better than my apaches

Static pressure 4.70
120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450 rpm Cooling Fan 3-pin

both of these in pairs can be connected via a Akasa 3 Pin Fan cable splitter and then connected again to the cpu or spare sys fan header ...but note that some motherboards have not got the feature of changing voltages on fans to reduce speeds so with some boards that use a 3-pin on a pwm fan header the fans will be on full constantly.. so grab a fan controller:)
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Hey HornyRhino, have you tried out the 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons? against the Apaches?

I'm debating getting the 1450rpm Gentle Typhoon's or the Akasa Apache's.
 
Mine is now installed. Running the same settings as before on a Scythe

Antec Sonata 2 ATX Case
Gigabyte P95 DS3P
[email protected]
1.512500Vcore in bios
1.424V cpuz on load
North Bridge 1.8V
OCZ Platinum 4x1gb 5-5-5-15, 2.0v

Before Was
36-40c idle
81-83c load

Now
39-42 idle
67-69 load

Load temps drop to about 64 with the door open.

This is running push pull with a Noctua P12 and Antec (?) fan, all in exhaust. Noctua on rear of case, then radiator then Antec. I will be swapping the Antec in a couple of days for a Scythe Kaze Jyuni 1900RPM

Memory chips seem cooler now for some reason (by touch) but North Bridge is roasting. Possibly because it have almost under the 120mm fan before and now has nothing.

A big plus for me is that there is room to move things around inside there now. My case is a bit cramped to say the least, but I couldnt have a full tower anyway as it wouldnt fit under my desk

Install was easy, I just had to undo the screws almost all the way off to lock the pump thing into place. Hardest part was working out how to hook up case to fan, fan to rad, rad to fan. I got there in the end by using 2 rubber screw things on outside, then 2 screws through the other 2 holes.

edit - I have tried to clock it higher, to 3.3ghz and 3.4ghz and get errors in prime. I think this is something to do with either memory settings or the north bridge possibly overheating.
I set the memory to show 800mhz, what its rated at, in the bios and clocked to 3.4ghz with a bit more on the vcore and it crashed with a physical memory blue screen. Im sure its something to do with the 266/333/400 mhz bands in bios. That or some other setting on the P45 board (theres hundreds)
 
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Guest2 said:
Mine is now installed. Running the same settings as before on a Scythe

Antec Sonata 2 ATX Case
Gigabyte P95 DS3P
[email protected]
1.512500Vcore in bios
1.424V cpuz on load
North Bridge 1.8V
OCZ Platinum 4x1gb 5-5-5-15, 2.0v

Before Was
36-40c idle
81-83c load

Now
39-42 idle
67-69 load

Load temps drop to about 64 with the door open.

This is running push pull with a Noctua P12 and Antec (?) fan, all in exhaust. Noctua on rear of case, then radiator then Antec. I will be swapping the Antec in a couple of days for a Scythe Kaze Jyuni 1900RPM

Memory chips seem cooler now for some reason (by touch) but North Bridge is roasting. Possibly because it have almost under the 120mm fan before and now has nothing.

A big plus for me is that there is room to move things around inside there now. My case is a bit cramped to say the least, but I couldnt have a full tower anyway as it wouldnt fit under my desk

Install was easy, I just had to undo the screws almost all the way off to lock the pump thing into place. Hardest part was working out how to hook up case to fan, fan to rad, rad to fan. I got there in the end by using 2 rubber screw things on outside, then 2 screws through the other 2 holes.

edit - I have tried to clock it higher, to 3.3ghz and 3.4ghz and get errors in prime. I think this is something to do with either memory settings or the north bridge possibly overheating.
I set the memory to show 800mhz, what its rated at, in the bios and clocked to 3.4ghz with a bit more on the vcore and it crashed with a physical memory blue screen. Im sure its something to do with the 266/333/400 mhz bands in bios. That or some other setting on the P45 board (theres hundreds)
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I really do think that you are going to have problems using two different fans in push pull. They won't have the same throughput of air. You won't get a decent airflow. You'll probably get better results just using the single Noctua fan.
 
Alex R said:
I really do think that you are going to have problems using two different fans in push pull. They won't have the same throughput of air. You won't get a decent airflow. You'll probably get better results just using the single Noctua fan.
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So have no exhaust fan at all, just the radiator screwed to the back of my case with the Noctua exhausting into it?

edit - why would it matter, i have both plugged into the cpu header on a splitter so wont it lower them to the lowerst rpm of either fan at max?

If I use a Scythe Kaze Jyuni 1900RPM Slip Stream on the exhaust of the radiator (37.0 dB(A) at 1900 RPM, 110.3 CMF ) then have the Noctua NF-P12 sucking into the radiator from the inside of the case (19.8db at 1300 RPM, 54.31855 CFM)

Would the Scythe just lower its speed to 1300RPM? Why does it even matter if they are at different speeds, wouldnt the air just leave the case faster than its going into the radiator. Surely thats better, as long as its not the other way around and it cant expel hot air fast enough
 
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Guest2 said:
So have no exhaust fan at all, just the radiator screwed to the back of my case with the Noctua exhausting into it?
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Does the PSU sit in the top of the Sonata 2 case (that's what you have?)? Has the it got fans? Could you use that as a secondary exhaust?

Have you reset the Tjmax from 100c to 90-95c on whatever sofware you are using to read the sensors? Seems to me the idle temperatures are a tad high.

Obviously the solution would be to buy a second noctua fan...
 
Yes, PSU sits at the top of the case. (Hiper Type R 580w) It has a fan under it and one on the outside from what i can see. How would I use the PSU as an exhaust? Or is the fan under it sucking air out the case (so an exhaust)?

I could set the Tjmax but on coretemp xxxx.4 but on .5 i cant find where. It doesnt matter much, ill just knock 5 c off the temp in my head. Suppose its safer at 100 anyway
 
Guest2 said:
Yes, PSU sits at the top of the case. (Hiper Type R 580w) It has a fan under it and one on the outside from what i can see. How would I use the PSU as an exhaust? Or is the fan under it sucking air out the case (so an exhaust)?

I could set the Tjmax but on coretemp xxxx.4 but on .5 i cant find where. It doesnt matter much, ill just knock 5 c off the temp in my head. Suppose its safer at 100 anyway
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PSU sucks from in the case and out yep
 
Quick question on this product - I had attached for a week or so while diagnosing a faulty bundle but the mobo had to back. Now there is still a thin layer of paste on the pump. Should I just re-attach or would I need to reapply the paste? If using a different paste how do I remove the stuff that comes on the pump? Any tips welcome.
 
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