Just found the problem with not adding the resistors
Any chance of a picture of your wiring mate?
Custom Arcade / Fight Sticks
- Thread starter adeq1
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Just found the problem with not adding the resistors
Any chance of a picture of your wiring mate?
Just found the problem with not adding the resistors
Any chance of a picture of your wiring mate?
Yep, give me a minute...
Not the clearest of pictures, I got a bit carried away with the glue gun last night! The yellow tape can be ignored. It's the underside of the pcb where the triggers used to be. Any more help, see the link I posted above which I followed.
What problems have you got with yours?
What problems have you got with yours?
I get phantom directional inputs when the triggers are pressed.
So taking the three points that the black potentiometer was connected to (For your LT displayed above) it goes like this:
Also, do you think a 40W iron is too powerful to do this as the points are close together and why can't I find anywhere that sells 10k resistors
Cheers for your help
So taking the three points that the black potentiometer was connected to (For your LT displayed above) it goes like this:
Code:
~ = 10k resistor
LT = LT connection wire
~
LT_| |
| |
X X XAlso, do you think a 40W iron is too powerful to do this as the points are close together and why can't I find anywhere that sells 10k resistors
Cheers for your help
Yep, that's the correct wiring. As you say, if it's not done correctly, you'll get ghost movements from the other axes.
My soldering iron is 30w and that didn't cause any problems. When you try to remove the potentiometer that's connected to the pcb, you'll notice that it's connected by 3 small metal legs. Use a wire cutter or just keep bending it back and forward until they snap. This leaves you easier points to solder to rather than soldering directly onto the pcb.
As for 10k resistors, they sell them in [your local electrical parts store] for 15p each. If you can't get them, send me an email by trust and I'll post you a couple that I've got spare.
My soldering iron is 30w and that didn't cause any problems. When you try to remove the potentiometer that's connected to the pcb, you'll notice that it's connected by 3 small metal legs. Use a wire cutter or just keep bending it back and forward until they snap. This leaves you easier points to solder to rather than soldering directly onto the pcb.
As for 10k resistors, they sell them in [your local electrical parts store] for 15p each. If you can't get them, send me an email by trust and I'll post you a couple that I've got spare.
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Nice site, pity life got in the way of you finishing and enjoying it.
If you decide to modify if for your Xbox, drop me an email via trust and I'll save you all the research. The simplest way of doing it, you'll just need 2 of the Mad Catz Arcade Sticks for your 2-player layout:
Horrible, horrible joystick but the perfect donor for an Xbox arcade stick. You can easily wire the D-pad up to the joystick and you're left with 12 regular buttons that can be used on either the Xbox or a PC.
You know you want to....
Delivery price is huge for that place!
I'd be happy to pay you for your spare ones plus postage mate
For the other pot do I swap the legs (so the resistor is always on the inner 2 solder points)?
There's a branch in every town
Either that or send me an email, no trading outside of Members' Market so they're yours if you want 'em for nothing. Owe me a virtual pint!For the other side, the right trigger, you solder the leg with the wire attached to the centre contact, as in the pic I posted earlier. The other leg goes on the "top" contact, again as in the pic I posted.
See this video for clarification - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5dojbIQPMk
...and this picture (not mine):
You don't want much, do you!?!
What are you using for wiring, modifying an existing controller or getting a purpose-made board? If it's for a 360, you'll need an existing controller, anything else can use a purpose-made one which, although more expensive, is a lot easier if you're not confident about soldering.
I'll be more than happy to give you any advice you want.
My parts arrived this morning so expect a few pics soon
Soldato
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I have a X-Arcade.. Love it to bits but gonna replace the sticks with some Sanwa ones
I think I'll have a crack at doing it for my xbox 360, then I can buy SF4.
I want to limit soldering work to the pcb only and use crimp (or whatever they are called) connections to the buttons. I was thinking of taking the wiring from buttons and joystick to terminal blocks and then to the pcb so I can swap the pcb to something else if i need to in future.
I want to limit soldering work to the pcb only and use crimp (or whatever they are called) connections to the buttons. I was thinking of taking the wiring from buttons and joystick to terminal blocks and then to the pcb so I can swap the pcb to something else if i need to in future.
Then you want to do something like I made:
From left to right: A, B, X, Y, LB, RB, LT, RT, Start, Guide, Back, Common Ground
Do I need to use the triggers or can I just not wire them up. I was thinking of just having 6 buttons plus start, guide and back. If I don't use them do I still need to use the resistors on them?
I assume SF4 still just uses 6 buttons.