Custom Arcade / Fight Sticks

chrismox said:
I'd think that you can just check them against a picture of them on Google images. Not sure about a serial number.



The type of Mad Catz I used (see pic in previous post) doesn't have a switch for the X-axis / D-pad as they were separate on the original stick. I could have made this and, subsequently, I wish I had for compatibility with certain emulators which don't easily recognise the D-pad. Maybe a future modification...?

As for buttons, the ones you can see are all I have wired up, being:
A
B
X
Y
LB
RB
Select
Start
Xbox guide

The other 4 buttons, including the triggers set as digital rather than analogue buttons are wired up internally in case I decide to swap things around. There doesn't seem any real need to have more face buttons than I've currently got.
Click to expand...

Cool. Yeah the emulator compatability is what I meant. I am sure when I used to have the EX2 some PC emulators didn't like it, and I recall reading about "better" sticks that let you switch axis or dpad.

I think I misunderstood, when people said they were using madcatz pads/sticks to mod, I assumed you bought the SF4 SE/TE or SF4 pads (which I think all have that switch on their). Didn't realise it was the cheopo "XBLA" stick you were modding (which doesn't have those options).


rp2000
 
rp2000 said:
Cool. Yeah the emulator compatability is what I meant. I am sure when I used to have the EX2 some PC emulators didn't like it, and I recall reading about "better" sticks that let you switch axis or dpad.

I think I misunderstood, when people said they were using madcatz pads/sticks to mod, I assumed you bought the SF4 SE/TE or SF4 pads (which I think all have that switch on their). Didn't realise it was the cheopo "XBLA" stick you were modding (which doesn't have those options).


rp2000
Click to expand...

It can be done by removing the X-axis potentiometer and wiring it up with a few resistors to make it a digital rather than analogue axis. It can then be wired to the joystick or via a switch to select between the X-axis and D-pad. It's a lot of extra work on the PCB and I've managed to get 99% of programs to recognise the D-pad (which registers as a POV hat in Windows). You can also use X-padder or Autohotkey scripts to make the D-pad directions act as buttons to solve most compatibility issues.
 
simo182 said:
I've bought a custom built stick that is meant to have Sanwa Joystick and Buttons. Will I be able to check that they are genuine by looking at the model number on each button?
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I've just recieved my sanwa parts. I can confrim that the buttons have sanwa written on the bottom.

I should be in a position to start my build this weekend.
 
Yay now the medium punch button on my SE Fightstick is barely responding now, similar to the jab button but much worse.

I'm pretty sure the PCB is fine though as the jab button works perfect since I swapped the buttons around, but still this is ridiculous.

I can swap in another button for time being, but considering how 1 button only broke a few days ago and now another is on the way out I wonder how long it will take before the rest of them start to go. :rolleyes:
 
The buttons and sticks on the Madcatz SE are absolutely horrendous, even when they're working they feel cheap and like they're going to break. I really do stand by my statement of only get one if you're going to mod it, otherwise the rock solid Hori EX2 all the way!

I'm using my EX2 until the rest of my parts for the SE arrive.
 
got an SE coming in the next week and after reading about your problems Margaret iv just ordered 3 sanwa buttons, for Jab, Light Kick and Medium kick - the buttons i tend to press most. Reckon i can wait for the others to wear out before replacing them, spread the cost out a little :-)
 
You may as well order the full set of 6 buttons now as ordering 2 sets of 3 will add a lot to total delivery costs and I guarantee you that they will all go eventually.
 
Which known fault?

The faults are:

Inconsistent joystick micro switches
Sticking joysticks due to loose washer
Spurious joystick actions due to loose washer wearing away PCB
Inconsistent buttons that fail to register after a while
Scratched artwork
Dead PCBs
Dodgy turbo on the PS3 SE and TE stick

All but the last 3 are sorted by changing to sanwa buttons and stick.
 
Hahaha! Quality items aren't they?

Don't care about the turbo or the artwork, so as long as the PCB isn't dead I'd be fine.
If I can sell my DS Lite for a reasonable price, then I might spend the cash on this.
I'm in no rush though, assuming my cheapo Blaze stick arrives when the shop says it will.
 
Kreeeee said:
They're appalling, typical madcatz quality.
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That was my fear when they got announced, but I missed the boat with the Hori sticks.
*kicks self*

It's a shame I'm rubbish at woodworking and rubbish at soldering, otherwise this'd be a superb opportunity to make my own.
I'd probably try anyway if I wasn't a bit on the broke side atm, can't risk it all going belly up and the cash being wasted.
 
mcwildcard said:
That was my fear when they got announced, but I missed the boat with the Hori sticks.
*kicks self*

It's a shame I'm rubbish at woodworking and rubbish at soldering, otherwise this'd be a superb opportunity to make my own.
I'd probably try anyway if I wasn't a bit on the broke side atm, can't risk it all going belly up and the cash being wasted.
Click to expand...

I've got a Hori, SE and a home built one :p

I've never soldered before and used a plastic box for the case to avoid woodwork. As long as you're happy to make a compromise liek that every single person on this forum is capable of building a decent stick if I can do it!

£6 for the pad, £25-30 for Sanwa parts and a couple of quid for cables, solder and quick disconnects.

Getting rid of the Hori though. It's awesome but but my other stick will have Sanwa parts in the next few days.
 
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EasyG said:
lol @ scratched artwork.

thats not much of a fault mate, just don't go at it with your keys and you'll be fine.
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Right... I suppose I'll have to humour you :rolleyes:

A lot of the SE's and TE's come with badly scratched art from madcatz's dodgy packing process and lack of any protection on the sticks. The Hori EX2's have a film on the artwork to protect it from scratches during the packing process but the madcatz stick have no such thing. On a £150 item this it quite frankly a retarded oversight.
 
360 Hori, just been sold on the MM.

Ah, my ghetto stick is so close to being finished!

It actually looks pretty god :p
 
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Well I swapped over another button on my MadCatz and it's working fine again, god knows for how long as I can't afford any more buttons acting up as I don't have any more to swap out, the faulty buttons work OK for menu navigating.

Only 2 more weeks or so for my Sanwa parts I hope, I swear I am never touching MadCatz again, I figured they had a lot of bad flak but then again all companies do have their fair share of faulty products, but this is absolutely ridiculous...

It seems the SE buttons just start to die after a month of use, splendid.
 
Ii have an SE on order (stock expected mid month), decided to get one despite some bad press they have recieved for malfunctioning parts. Depends how hard you are on it though as im sure some people would be heavier handed than others. I'll see how I get on with it though until the warranty expires and then I'll prob mod it as most have - no biggy.

Been looking at the custom builds on SRK and I'm very impressed. Im pretty keen on giving it a go in the near future providing I can price one up reasonably. Prob go for a woodern frame (mdf), flat topped, art work covered in perspex. I have a friend who has created concept art for several game studio's and films so I may be able to get him to contribute something if I ask him nicely :) Tis all just at a conceptual stage atm though so prob won't happen for a good while.
 
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