Dark Rock 4 owners - i need re-assurance.
- Thread starter Plec
- Start date
Try DR4 last time, if broken, get your money back
Normally, i would totally agree (and i do) - but current times and supply are making this decision suddenly more complex.What orbitalwalsh said. Previous motherboard problems was most likely defective, so using DR4 is highly unlikely to change anything .. except temps and noise.
I'm may return the DR4 to the retailer (undecided) and, agree, it's probably perfectly fine, but i want a gentler attachment for this build due to my nagging suspicions about the motherboard. It may not be an inherent fault/combo with the MB - but i'm not prepared to experiment within this current climate/shortages. Plus, it's a complicated fault to explain in the CS forum and if it were to die again - my back would would really be up against it. (very likely a coincidence - but in the present climate i haven't got the luxury to experiment - parts becoming increasingly difficult to come by and my work needs a fully functioning, stable system.).
I will wait for OcUK to get stock of the Mugan 5, for fitting reasons explained in above post - they at least package components properly, too. This motherboard appears to be stable - and i need a primary workstation i can trust - i'll wait for the Mugan's to come back in stock - probably have to wait a few months :/
Until then... "My god the noise!"
LoL
I have always hated stock coolers. Do you like Thermalright coolers?
Stock Coolers: I loathe them, with a passion - the quality, noise, performance and now the gopping RGB :/
The last Thermalright i used was the Silver Arrow - the first incarnation with the terrifying central tightening nut, which you dared yourself to risk another turn... Now that bowed my p67 and z77 virtually in half - and they didn't bat an eyelid. It was for my own builds - I only installed the single fan version after that - with the one tower stack. Cooled just as efficiently, without the literal blood, sweat and tears - emphasis on blood.
Not used Thermalright recently on builds - Mugan 5 is my go to for family and friends as fits budgets and quality/performing unit. Plus, Noctuas and the odd DR4 (but no NVMe) - if look or silence is desired (i don't do RGB). I've installed other coolers against my advice - i.e. AIOs - but that's a personal dislike (more points of failure, noisy) which i don't enforce on friends. *Kids have no choice - and they have dampening cases too.
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The founder of Thermalright and I are friends and have been from company founding. Company changed owners a couple years ago but still makes very good coolers. I do agree, the center tensioning knob did get some into trouble, but when used properly it works fine. I've tested/used most all of Thermalright line of coolers. All are/were good with some being exceptional, especially some of their single towers. They were first to do offset base (HR-01) coolers .. one of very first to use heatpipes. Was a time Thermalright and Noctua were only kings out there .. not anymore. Have used/tested a couple of Scythe and like them. I should use more of them, but still have closet with too many Thermalrights that need to be used. Thermalright lost it's market share because owner thought good product would sustain good sales .. sadly marketing and bogus review hype makes more sales than quality.
I agree about AIO/CLC, most are garbage. A case setup to flow air properly cools as well and quieter than CLC and most AIOs at much lower cost and much longer life. That said, I am using a Swiftech H320 X2 and a be quiet! Silent Loop 280 with additional 360 rad (Alphacool OEM) AIOs on 2 of 6 system in house. While they cool well and are quiet, they obviously require much more maintanance and are more expensive. If they had not been test samples I wouldn't have them.
I agree about AIO/CLC, most are garbage. A case setup to flow air properly cools as well and quieter than CLC and most AIOs at much lower cost and much longer life. That said, I am using a Swiftech H320 X2 and a be quiet! Silent Loop 280 with additional 360 rad (Alphacool OEM) AIOs on 2 of 6 system in house. While they cool well and are quiet, they obviously require much more maintanance and are more expensive. If they had not been test samples I wouldn't have them.
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Dec 2015
- Posts
- 18,512
Mug 5 is old new, Bequiet Shadow Rock 3 beats it now , and all 4 dimms cleared
Stock will be hard , trust me on that
Stock will be hard , trust me on that
Could you give us links to tests showing be quiet! Shadow Rock 3 is better than Mugen 5 please?
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Dec 2015
- Posts
- 18,512
already posted up . eteknix had one up . its about 2c warmer then DR4
https://www.eteknix.com/be-quiet-shadow-rock-3-cpu-cooler-review/5/
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Don't you find it kinda suspect when companie's best cooler with more heatpipes and fin area has higher CPU temps than smaller cooler with less heatpipes and fin area? Especially when the test procedure says "Ambient temperatures should be between 21-23 degrees in all our tests unless otherwise stated." That is a 2 degree variable not being addressed. They also say air temp is "ambient", so not actual air temp entering cooler. So how much more difference is the temp of air entering cooler than elsewhere in room? They also say "There is approximately a 1-degree Celsius margin of error in our temperature recording software." We now have up to at least 3c variable, but that means little when we don't even know what the air temp into cooler is at time CPU temp is taken. Thermostat thermometer reading somewhere else in room is at least a degree or two different than workbend where there are bodies, lights, power supply, etc all radiating heat and changing air temp near them and motherboard on far from surface of test bench .. quite possibly more than a degree or two. They say nothing about the importance of actual air temp entering cooler at same time CPU temp is recorded. End result is temps in graphs could easily be 3-6c different than they would be if done properly.
For testing to be even remotely accurate the air temp entering cooler must be monitored and recorded, not the air temp elsewhere at some other time during / before / after testng is done. Air temp into cooler must be recorded at same time CPU temp is recorded. If it is not, test results can not be replicated making it impossible to verify them or show how far off they really are.
Sorry to be so blunt, but fancy graphs, pictures and writing do not make testing accurate. If the test procedure is flawed, so are the results. It's the problem with most all cooler testing.
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