DC2's

Muffin`

Muffin`

Muffin`

Caporegime
Joined
21 Apr 2004
Posts
33,232
Location
Bristol
Saw this at the weekend at Paul Sheard Auto's in Congleton:

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It was on DC2-OC at £4,800 and he traded it in there and it's now up at £4,995

Seem a fair price? Or over priced?


What I noticed:

Worn steering wheel (How much for a new one? Worth keeping the air bag?)
Worn bolsters which is expected on a car of this age and seats like that (:D)
Rust around the rear arch, I've seen the thread on DC2-OC about them and they do seem a common fault that can lead to serious rust issues if it's not addressed early on - walk away if it's bad or worth a fix?

Can anyone answer some questions about how much a full fluid change is before a track day? pads/discs etc and general running costs?

It had 3 RE010's on and a Potenza of some sort, these are getting old and rare now and I don't want to put out of date tyres on. Is it just fanboyism with tyres or would Eagle F1's / Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta ruin the ride and handling?
 
Muffin` said:
It had 3 RE010's on and a Potenza of some sort, these are getting old and rare now and I don't want to put out of date tyres on. Is it just fanboyism with tyres or would Eagle F1's / Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta ruin the ride and handling?
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Yep.

Eagles would be one way to ruin a teg.
 
They havent got the sidewall stiffness. The bushes on the Teg has a decent amount of compliance for the passive rear steering that allows the rear toe to change a lot under bump and droop and cancels yaw effects at the rear when you have a big difference in tyre grip side to side.

Add compliance from a tyre and they feel like your on jelly and you dont really wanna go above 85mph.

Its nothing to do with the quality, its about the tyre dynamics.
 
the vredsteins are renowned for having quite stiff sidewalls ?

assume that would only apply to the F1s and their infamous sidewalls of cheese :D
 
I thought the ITR-DC2 was designed to run with the characteristics of the RE010 tyres. Maybe F1's would be too soft?
 
Shouldn't you worry about actually purchasing the car before worrying about what brand of tyres you *might* put on a car which you *might* purchase?

On the subject of tyres - I didn't realise different tyres could cause such a change in handling characteristics!!
 
Phil W said:
Shouldn't you worry about actually purchasing the car before worrying about what brand of tyres you *might* put on a car which you *might* purchase?
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No I should enquire now, I'm not your average spur of the moment man, I'd like to know what I'm letting myself in for and £400 consumables are important.


Phil W said:
On the subject of tyres - I didn't realise different tyres could cause such a change in handling characteristics!!
Click to expand...

Good thing I didn't buy it then and not own what I've read about.
 
The rear end of that looks sooty, my main concern would be to make sure it doesn't smoke heavily, this is an issue with Integras which can be costly to sort out. Steering wheel is one of the ugly early UK spec ones, it would look much better with the 98 spec JDM wheel but that'll cost a fair bit to retrofit. Tyre choice is critical as has been said, Hankook RS2s are getting rave reviews by most at the moment, they're a pain to get hold of though.
 
Hankook RS2's are pretty damn awesome for DC2's, pretty cheap as well!

Price seems a little steep for a 90k'er, I bought my '99 spec UKDM for £5,200 with 65k on the clock.

Steering wheel will be about £19,000 from Honda but just keep an eye on itr-dc2 and there's pretty much every part you could ever want being sold on the (relative) cheap (99 spec wheels are sexier though)

Tegiwa Imports in Stone are brilliant for Integra parts too, every time I've rang them after a part they've had it!
 
Apprently the F1's are still very competent in the wet but as I won't be commuting in it RE010's or RS2's seem the best bet.

What is the soot issue? Anything to look out for or what to do when going to look at one?
 
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