De-lidded 3770k!!

BrianB said:
Still a big difference between the core temps must be because they are at either end of the die? Nice results.
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Yeah I think it's partly to do with the cf3 thermal compound.. When I lifted the lid off there wasn't much paste above those cores and it seems to have done the same again even though I'm sure I put enough on.. We're see how the liquid metal does though. Will try doing the heat sink up one 1/2 turn at a time so it clamps equally but otherwise I think it's just not the best chip, much better then it was mind..

Will see how the new pastes do and no doubt I'll be water cooled by next weekend :D
 
Just 1.050V in BIOS, set LLC to Extreme for now haven't tweaked it much. It works out about 1.07V at load. My offset is +0.005V at the moment, with LLC on Turbo for 1.248V under load, it sometimes spikes to 1.27V but it's only when opening stuff.

@Demons UK, I put a very thin line of TIM down the whole die, it seemed to give great coverage.

I might have to delid mine now, but I'm only going to use the knife on 1 corner, the rest will be done using my Gelid plastic spreader that comes with the paste. If that doesn't work, I will just use the knife. If I break the chip I'll just get a new one. Got a new job now so won't be a problem. I'd be able to get to 4.7 under air I think with decent temps, or just have very good temps. My max temps currently are 65C so if I can get it under 60C at load I'll be well happy.
 
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Haha yeah, I can't help myself. I like the look of that Liquid pro stuff, but look's a pain to apply and I'm very happy with Gelid paste performance...think I'll stick with the gelid.

What would you recommend for cleaning the actual die of the heatsink? I need something very soft and lint free but can't think of what to use. All I have at the moment is 99% Isopropyl, might try just using cotton buds.
 
i have a big bottle of meths,i use that and a cotton bud for cleaning cpu's/heatsinks ect,you can buy a small blue coloured bottle in the shops

i thought if you had one of those dremmels and a round cutting disk you could cut all the way round at the top of the heatsink and leave the rest stuck to the pcb with the sides ect,then when you mounted your heatsink/fan the sides would stop it touching/crushing the exposed core? sounds good but would be hard but not as hard as cutting the usual way
 
Meths makes me gag. Can't use that. :D The 99% alcohol is pretty good, it's more the cleaning fabrics I used in past have been too harsh I think.

That sounds bloody difficult, the IHS is really dense. I also think it would be a bit hard to get it flat, maybe someone could lap their IHS for about a week until it was just the outside part. xD

Probably easier to cut it off, with the right blade this time around. Then get some rubber stopper of some kind around where the IHS used to be. I don't trust myself to tighten my D-14 down with the core naked though. Also nothing holding it in place with the socket removed and I don't like that. At least with the IHS it's still nice and secure.
 
Yeah with the liquid metal (both new pastes come today but have no time to sort it his weekend) theres a small brush included so ill probably paint in around the chip evenly..

I've also got a certain water cooling kit coming Monday...
 
Well I'm hoping to lap the lid some more later... I have a flat sander I could use with 1200 grit I'm sure... :D

I will be careful I have a solder sucker that I expect will work but I will be as gentle as I can be, then I'll do some test and all being well tomorrow I'll watercool it and see the temps change, hopefully for the better! I'll have a redundant silver arrow extreme then..

Oh and ill probably have ago at getting the RAM at 1800 as it's rated for 1600..
 
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rapt0r said:
Oh lord, not you again lol. troll elsewhere please.
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Is that the best you can do? Accuse me of trolling?

I've referenced the specific section of the spec to show that the 1.52V figure is not the max safe Vcore. Anyone can look at the datasheet and confirm that for themselves. As a comparison, here's the applicable section for the SB-E max safe Vcore value:-

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/core-i7-lga-2011-datasheet-vol-1.html

Page 55 Table 7-3 - Max VID register value 1.52V (it's exactly the same values for SB)

Page 60 Table 7-8 - Max Vcore 1.4V

Page 61 Table 7-9 - Max Vcore VID 1.35V

For Sandy Bridge-E Intel have stated max values for Vcore, not only that they have even stated that the maximum VID you will ever see is 1.35V for SB-E. That information is completely missing for SB and IB, they only give the VID register values.
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Since you seemingly missed this post, have a look at this since it explains everything you need to know about VID and Vcore being two separate things.
 
Ouch at his vcore. Nearly 1.7. :o Yet the ones I've seen over there said the suicidal volts they were posting was 1.5.
 
MrMarvelous said:
Can you de-lid a 2500K or is there no need?
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You cannot delid a 2500k, sandy-bridge is soldered to the integrated heat spreader, only ivy-bridge.


What's all this max voltage talk going on, i'd say the max is when the CPU goes bang, who wants to try it out? only max voltage is what the motherboard can supply surely, as long as you can cool the chip then throw what you want at it till it pops:D
 
I think what we mean by max voltage is, max voltage for overclocking and leaving it like that for the rest of the cpu's life. Apparently too high and you can reduce it from like 15 years to say, 5. XD I don't really know, but I do know that my max voltage is 1.4V because anything higher and I'm scared I will solder my chip to my heatsink.

@Wazza BTW, +.5V to my DDR voltage and took my Greens to 2200 9-11-11-21 TRFC96 will confirm if stable, taken it down to 33.7ns latency I've never seen it that low before. 2400 booted at 1.65V 1.1VTT but not sure what is better, lower VTT or higher overclock.

edit: 1.525V DDR 1.060V VTT 9-10-11-21 trfc96 33.6ns o_o I want faster, might try achieve 2400 which is highest I can go on UP4 I think.
 
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