DIY ensuite bathroom replacement - build log

Participant

Participant

Participant

Caporegime
Joined
13 May 2003
Posts
34,465
Location
Warwickshire
Hi all

I'm going to document the replacement of my ensuite bathroom in this thread. It's the first time I've done a bathroom myself (closest so far is the downstairs toilet) so it would be great to get people's opinions / feedback and have a place for me to ask the inevitable questions in one place, as I come up against situations and need views on best practice. Might also be useful to others interested in trying.

Before photos:

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Started ripping out today; had some other stuff to do (constant theme in this I'm sure) so didn't finish all the walls. The SDS drill with a tile chisel bit made this very easy on the block work. The plan for the stud walls is to cut whole areas with a grinder then pull the plasterboard off in large chunks.

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Pretty sure this is not the belt and braces way to install a shower tray :o. They appear to have laid the tray on laminate flooring with some tile adhesive, or mortar not sure, but it was very crumbly. The plaster and wood at the bottom is mouldy and disintegrating. I expect lots more examples of this shambolic bodgery in this room and as I make my way round the rest of the rooms.

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dlockers said:
Put power for a backlit mirror and defogger!
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That's an interesting one actually. All the kit is sitting in my garage and it includes a powered cabinet but a vanilla main mirror (bundle deal from Victorian Plumbing).

I had been debating whether to run a 1.5mm T&E and terminate it behind the vanilla mirror, just in case I change my mind in future and want a defoggy one.
 
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Forget the grinder just wear googles and smash the walls with a lump hammer and pull the tiles/board off that way, with a crow bar/hammer. Much more fun and less likely to cut a finger off.
 
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Don't bother using a grinder to get a stud plasterboard wall out - that's the dustiest tool going.

Just bang a hammer through the hollow sections and tear it down/out.


As for the mirror I would recommend a light up mirror, I bought mine from pebble grey (it is the "halo" model I have in 2 bathrooms) £117. Their customer service is very good also.
I prefer the lighting to the side rather than pointing "at" you

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Guys can I chase a 75mm Grohe shower valve into brick, as in external bricks? I was going to put the valve on the wall where the towel heater is so you can switch it on without reaching in, but not sure if I can safely remove that much brick.

It's structural as it's the old external wall of the property pre extension.

The side with the electric shower is a stud wall so it's not a great issue if not, I just ideally wanted the valve perpendicular to the shower heads.

Buffman said:
To be fair based on your rip out pics looks like you could just tile onto some of the previous plaster. I'd just put backer boards where shower is going. Unless you need to rip out the wall anyway for noise insulation etc.
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Would be nice to avoid it, but I think I'll unfortunately need some kind of board to make sure it's flat and plumb.
 
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Semple said:
More importantly is it wired into Home Assistant!
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Haha not yet.

Participant said:
Guys can I chase a 75mm Grohe shower valve into brick, as in external bricks? I was going to put the valve on the wall where the towel heater is so you can switch it on without reaching in, but not sure if I can safely remove that much brick.

It's structural as it's the old external wall of the property pre extension.

The side with the electric shower is a stud wall so it's not a great issue if not, I just ideally wanted the valve perpendicular to the shower heads.


Would be nice to avoid it, but I think I'll unfortunately need some kind of board to make sure it's flat and plumb.
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75mm sounds too deep to me, especially if it's an external wall. Have you allowed for tile, backer board, glue, with that depth? Might only be 30mm once you've done all that.
 
Nah i wouldnt be chasing out that much of an external wall. I'm sure some house bashers would and it'd probably be OK but ill advised.

You could stud out the entire wall to hide it in though which is what most bathroom fitters would do. Tbh tho I'd rather have a bar shower and not lose the space. Especially given its a long thin room and you can't gain lose much shower space with the door open unless you're moving the shower.
 
Buffman said:
Nah i wouldnt be chasing out that much of an external wall. I'm sure some house bashers would and it'd probably be OK but ill advised.

You could stud out the entire wall to hide it in though which is what most bathroom fitters would do. Tbh tho I'd rather have a bar shower and not lose the space. Especially given its a long thin room and you can't gain lose much shower space with the door open unless you're moving the shower.
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I thought about studding out the whole wall to accommodate pipes and valve, but unfortunately that would mean the shower waste fouling a joist and the door possibly hitting the shower tray.
 
Participant said:
I thought about studding out the whole wall to accommodate pipes and valve, but unfortunately that would mean the shower waste fouling a joist and the door possibly hitting the shower tray.
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Joists can liekly be cut to acoomodate a shallow shower waste trap (depending on their size). You can also sister the joist up to add the strength back into it.

You don't have to stud the whole wall, you could just stud out the back wall where the shower is to allow you to fit a valve (where the electric shower is currently).
 
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