Drayton Wiser (heater/water smart controller), my install log/issues

I Installed Wiser this week.

Got the starter kit a couple of days ago and managed to work out the wiring. Like you I had to replace the faceplate as, although the terminals on the previous one were right, the faceplate itself was rectangular and recessed into the back of the old controller unlike the square one that the Wiser unit locates onto. Swapping the faceplate over was simple enough. Also had to disconnect the old thermostat which was a little unnerving as this was my first time mucking about with heating system wiring. Reverse engineered it all and worked out which two terminals I needed to bridge and there was no bang when I turned the power back on so I'll call that a win. The only other issue I had during setup was when adding the first TRV to the system. The instructions in the app say to put the batteries in the TRV then turn and hold it in the '+' position until the green light is flashing. I did this and it just sat there with all the lights on but no green no matter how long I held it. Eventually I worked out that you need to install the batteries, but then give it a chance to power up by itself before touching it. Once it settles down you can turn it to '+' and the green light will flash within a couple of seconds.

The intention was always to start with the basic kit with a view to adding TRVs onto all radiators once I was happy it'd do what I want. I managed to hold out for whole day before a box of TRVs was ordered and they turned up today. I've now got Wiser TRV heads on every radiator in the house bar one which doesn't have a valve on it (It's in the same room that the old 'dumb' room stat used to be in and where I now have the Wiser room stat). I'll probably install one at some point but it'll involve draining radiators etc so can wait for now. I've also noticed that of the 9 TRVs I've now installed, maybe 2 or 3 of them didn't seem to do anything during their 'calibration' whereas most of them whirred away for several seconds. I've not noticed any adverse issues with the ones that didn't make a noise but I'll need to keep an eye on them.

I still need to decide what I'm going to do with the configuration of the downstairs rooms. We've got three rooms (Living room, dining room and kitchen) that are all fairly open plan.They're seperate rooms but linked by quite wide arches with no doors between them and all have their own radiators, at the moment I have TRVs on the living room and kitchen rads with the room stat in the dining room which is in the middle. In the app I have it all configured as one room with the three devices assigned but im unsure of whether there's a chance I'll end up with temperature variation within that large space and whether I'll be better off configuring them as seperate rooms. We also have an open fireplace in the living room so the real test will be when it gets cold enough for us to start lighting a fire of an evening.

I'm also unsure of whether a room stat is really necessary in a system of this type. Surely once you have every radiator controlled by their own TRVs, each with the ability to call for heat that a room stat is then redundant.

The app itself seems easy enough to use although there is room for improvement. Rooms seem to be listed in the order in which they were created, there should be a way to easily reorder them to put the more significant rooms at the top. There seems to be no way to force a recalibration of the TRVs without removing them from the system and readding. I'd also like to see a way to copy schedules from one room to another. Finally, when you have a room with multiple devices, it'd be nice if you could see the temperatures of each device rather than just the 'room' temperature as well as name each device independently to allow immediate identification within the app.
 
Installed Wiser this week - very excited - and then discovered it was acting just like an on / off switch. ALL the radiators on or off - despite any schedules you set!
Support is ridiculous. First line support keep telling me they have no update but can't tell me what is happening - is the ticket being looked at? Is it a complex situation that needs more time? Nothing..
Hugely frustrating and they won't even let me talk to a first line supervisor. If anyone knows anyone that could shed some light on what they suggested was a rare but known problem initially, I'd love to hear your experience.
 
Hi All,
Had my Wiser installed 4 months ago and it is really impressive system. Now had my boiler upgraded to combi and the installer suggested wiring it using Opentherm protocol as my new boiler is certified. It works nice and controlls temperature automatically, but for heating it sometimes demands 80 degrees which is way to high. Also hot water temperature is maxed as well. Called technical support and they said I need Kit 1 which would control heat only. Anybody can confirm this ? As I dont know how boiler will know it needs to leave hot water on manual.
Also is there any way to limit maximum temperature using Dryton wiser? Anybody wired boiler using Opentherm protocol?
As if I cannot set maximum temperature I will have to rewire using classic on/off method as 80degree rad can burn skin if touched :(
 
Anyone know why it would be that some radiators are getting hot even when completely switched off? We have just the lounge turned on, with all the other smart trv switched to off. Yet about 4 other radiators get hot. We can't stop it.
 
Anyone know why it would be that some radiators are getting hot even when completely switched off? We have just the lounge turned on, with all the other smart trv switched to off. Yet about 4 other radiators get hot. We can't stop it.

It could be that the valves that the TRVs are sitting on aren't closing properly (especially if they're old), or otherwise that the TRV heads aren't properly calibrated. Try taking the controllers off, pushing the pins on the TRV bodies with the flat of a screwdriver or similar to make sure they push all the way down (i.e. closing the valve) and spring back up. Before remounting the controllers, turn each to '+' and hold till the the red light stops flashing, the valve should completely open. Then reinstall the controller on the valve body and turn to '-' until the blue light stops flashing, the TRV should re-calibrate itself against the full movement range of the valve body pin.

Hope that helps,

Neil
 
Forgot about this thread

I recently changed provider to BT from Sky and the new home hub is way mroe powerful wifi, once connected (you do a semi install in effect) wiser unit has been 100% stable and fully connected at all times.
Amazing how different a router can be.

Changed the battery in the thermostat recently as it was low.

Still really impressed with wiser actually. I did turn on then off the pre heating and the one to stop heating towards the end of the evening (forget the names) but I may switch them on later in the winter, but I need to adjust the schedules as I set the schedules based on the heating being on and allowing the temp to drop before we would go to bed.
 
Anyone using Wiser with the BT Whole Home Mini? I’m having constant issues with it. Seems to lose connection every day at the minute, and the only way to get it back is to power cycle the Wiser hub a couple of times. Incredibly frustrating!

My WHM consists of 3 discs (have a 4th too) that are all connected via Ethernet backhaul, so the connection to them is perfect. The closest to Wiser is literally 8-10’ away, and the next closest is around 18’ away.

All other devices at home seem to be fine, and once connected, Wiser shows full Wi-Fi bars. I’m wondering if it just doesn’t play well with the WHM system.

Might give Drayton a call and see if they have any suggestions. I’ve got another week or so left to return the WHM setup to Amazon, which I’d prefer not to do.
 
I'm unfamiliar with the way the home mini works, are they different IDs to connect to, or all the same ID? Could be its picking up the wrong one somehow?

It could be worth doing the install again, there is a guide on how to do this if you change provider / newwork, I found it worked very well, very quick to do. You basically delink the wifi and start the setup again, enter new codes and your done.

The wiser system does seem to be quite poor reception, was talk of the antenna being shielded by the system itself, certainly I knew if I placed an alexa, iphone, or ipad by the wiser all would have a far better signal than the wiser so its definately the unit itself, which is frustrating as of course you cannot move it. Equally once you get a decent signal to it, it seems rock solid so its worth finding a solution.
 
Has anyone got any more information about the external antenna, that @gr1nch mentioned a while back? I've googled around and can't find any reference to anybody attempting this. Was hoping for some guidance so that I could try it myself. I've had lots of issues with both Wi-fi and Zigbee signal, and have had to buy one smart plug so far, which is temperamental, and the decision making for the routing (either direct or via the relay plug) seems very odd. I've reported all of this to the Drayton Wiser support, and they are being very helpful, but they've also just told me that only six devices can connect via a smart plug relay, and I've now got six, so if I want to connect anything else I'll have to buy yet another expensive "smart" plug. All of this because the Zigbee network reception on the hub is terrible (I've got one TRV in the same room as the hub and it gets "poor" signal). I have to check all of the signal strength and routing information by using the Drayton Wiser integration in Home Assistant, because the DW app doesn't report any of that useful data. If I could figure out how to attach an external Zigbee antenna (I know the original was for the Wi-fi one, but if I could get a start on the Wi-fi one, I'm sure I could work out the other one) I could at least save myself a few quid by connecting more devices directly to the hub. My only other idea at the moment is to run a longer cable from the boiler and move the hub to a more central part of the house, but I'm not totally convinced that would help.
 
I've actually got 8 TRVs in total, and 6 of those are now routing via the plug. I just read my message back and I can see why that was confusing, sorry. So I'm fine right now, but we would like to fit another small radiator in the hall at some point, the position of which is easily as far away as some of the others that are having to relay, because of poor zigbee signal strength, so then I'd have 7 of the 9 TRVs vying for the 6 slots on the plug.
 
To be honest i found that just a better wifi signal fixed my issues.
For me the backbox is a metal one and i am pretty convinced this is a lot of the issue, typically boilers are on outside walls and hence are likely to have the controls situated close by and using a metal back box.
Metal back boxes of course being great for blocking wifi signals!
 
Did anyone ever sort the WiFi issue. Had Wiser for over 12 months, with 1 Thermostat, 1 Smart Plug, and 5 Radiator TRVs. The system itself is great, however we have countless issues of not being able to connect it to the WiFi.
Yes occasionally it is possible to use the wiser app, however the signal drops out several times a day.
At the mo we use the Virgin media hub 3, split into both the 2.4ghz and 5ghz channels. We've also used Powerline adapters and still have probs.
So as I'm still having issues using Powerline adapters, I'm wondering whether to go down the mesh route and buy a mesh system to improve the whole house WiFi.
The question is though, if we go down the Mesh Route, will the Heat Hub connect better, as I've read with a mesh system you cannot split into the 2.4ghz or 5ghz. Wiser support told me you need to split your channels to get it to work properly.
Or would I be better with a more powerful router.
Anyone got any experience?
 
i had the issue which seems now to be solved by using a tp link extender. unbelievably this has meant now that whenever i try access the app it's almost instant when at home, where as before it seemed like it was forever unable to connect.

maybe worth trying as they are cheap to get. perhaps something about how tp link sends the signal that wiser likes :confused:
 
Cheers mate, can you advise which one you brought. Like I say I've tried the Devolo Powerline and still had probs, and also tried an old £13 Netgear extender.
The thing I've noticed with WiFi extenders, they use your WiFi address but put the -EX on the end, so when you set up the TP link, did you connect the Heat hub to the Ex version of the WiFi.
 
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