First Home - Renovation Project
- Thread starter Brozart
- Start date
Soldato
Nice work
I need to catch up on progress, several rooms have been patched up and sanded to a near perfect finish - I'm honestly surprised that our mouse sander hasn't died 
I rewired my 5.1.2 setup after I realised the speaker cable was junk, adding a couple of neat extras such as fitting two double sockets behind the wall to hide the cabling when I install the TV + the mounted IR receiver.
I rewired my 5.1.2 setup after I realised the speaker cable was junk, adding a couple of neat extras such as fitting two double sockets behind the wall to hide the cabling when I install the TV + the mounted IR receiver.
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Gypsum coving fitted in the living room, we may fit ceiling roses to finish it off.
It was hard work preparing the walls, I sanded back the paint as it was so dusty - a couple of pieces fell off when we installed it in the bedroom, so I didn't want to risk it again haha.
It was hard work preparing the walls, I sanded back the paint as it was so dusty - a couple of pieces fell off when we installed it in the bedroom, so I didn't want to risk it again haha.
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Leveling the floors...
The kitchen delivery was booked for early December, so we decided to get a tiler to do the kitchen and utility to speed things up as I was working + I tend to take a little longer on jobs I've never done before
We've gone with Yurtbay Seramik 15x90cm tiles in mono chrome wood effect (9 patterns).
The floor was out of level up to 40mm in some places, the tiler said we needed around 20 bags of leveling compound for him. I cleaned up and mopped the rooms, and primed it so he had a nice clean surface to work with...
But despite my best efforts in prep work, he managed to completely mess it up and to make matters worse - he used a total of 30 bags!
It took ages to dry and when it did, it remained soft, dusty and cracked...
I reached out to Larson to find out what happened as I thought it must have been a bad batch, they were so supportive about it and actually tested it for me. The results came back, the mix was bad, too much water! They said he used so much water that the fibers (as it was fiber reinforced leveler) have separated from the cement and raised to the top...
When I spoke to the tiler, it turns out he used 1-2litres too many per bag, didn't prime between layers and told me that it had cracked in other layers too and that he patted it down and put more on top - fml
The kitchen delivery was booked for early December, so we decided to get a tiler to do the kitchen and utility to speed things up as I was working + I tend to take a little longer on jobs I've never done before
We've gone with Yurtbay Seramik 15x90cm tiles in mono chrome wood effect (9 patterns).
The floor was out of level up to 40mm in some places, the tiler said we needed around 20 bags of leveling compound for him. I cleaned up and mopped the rooms, and primed it so he had a nice clean surface to work with...
But despite my best efforts in prep work, he managed to completely mess it up and to make matters worse - he used a total of 30 bags!
It took ages to dry and when it did, it remained soft, dusty and cracked...
I reached out to Larson to find out what happened as I thought it must have been a bad batch, they were so supportive about it and actually tested it for me. The results came back, the mix was bad, too much water! They said he used so much water that the fibers (as it was fiber reinforced leveler) have separated from the cement and raised to the top...
When I spoke to the tiler, it turns out he used 1-2litres too many per bag, didn't prime between layers and told me that it had cracked in other layers too and that he patted it down and put more on top - fml
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Soldato
I thought the mix was probably the culprit. Is he going to sort it? Guess you tempted to rip it all up and start again?
You have worked so hard.
You have worked so hard.
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Soldato
Shame about the flooring! Have you managed to move in yet?
If the kitchen was fitted on time, we could have moved in for Christmas. It would have looked similar to the final scene on Lethal Weapon 1 haha but it would have been fine.
After wasting the best part of two weeks and 600kg of leveler, I just wanted him gone - no money was exchanged and I now worse off than when I started! I will not be getting another tradesman in except for electrics and gas work, I might take longer but I do a better job.
I had booked a week off to fit the kitchen but this **** up has completely messed up the schedule. I ended up using the week off to rip up the defective compound and start again from scratch.
The floor came up in muddy layers, no chance would I risk tiling and fitting a new kitchen on this...
and to add to the chaos, the kitchen started to arrive.
After days of chiseling, scraping and vacuuming I finally got it back to the concrete floor.
More updates shortly
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Associate
I would have invoiced the tiler for the cost of materials and the cost of the clean up.
Soldato
Similar happened to my cousin's house, tiler was tiling the floors when my uncle turned up and saw the shoddy workmanship. He told the tiler to stop immediately and told him to leave. Tiler himself knew he was crap and was actually relieved to go.
Too many crap have-a-go tradesmen about these days.
Too many crap have-a-go tradesmen about these days.
Associate
years ago when I lived in a private let house the landlord had got his sparky round to do work in the place. I had been working in the back of beyond at the time and was away Monday to Friday so had organised my old man to be at the house..
My old man chased the sparky and reported him!! My dad did the work that was needing done and billed my landlord!! scary thing is he paid!!
Soldato
What kitchen units you gone for?
That job removing the floor looks horrible! I need to get a large area levelled also, is that a standard tiler job?
Does that mean you've not moved in for 3 years? :O
That job removing the floor looks horrible! I need to get a large area levelled also, is that a standard tiler job?
Does that mean you've not moved in for 3 years? :O
Fortunately Larson were brilliant about the situation and refunded me the material costs, it was my time that was wasted the most - nothing more draining than ripping up muddy leveler a couple of weeks after it was poured. I couldn't be bothered with any confrontation regarding the house, especially when it's unoccupied. I'm just going to bite the bullet on this one and wash my hands of him - Lee summed it up perfectly, I'm not risking anymore 'have-a-go tradesmen' in this house!
I'm glad it's not just me having this problem, integrity and quality is hard to find these days - I've managed to find a really good plumber and sparky after a couple of duds; which I'm keeping within arm's reach
We've gone with a Rotpunkt kitchen (German Manufacturer), complete handleless in matte white and a thin matte grey worktop. I'll create a dedicate post on the kitchen soon.
Yes you tend to find mostly tilers and some wooden/laminate floor fitters do leveling as it affects their work on the flooring. If you don't get the subfloor flat they'd have to build up spots with adhesive (bad practice) and may get lippage or hollow sounding spots. I'll give you all the details needed to do it yourself, it's straight forward when done right
Maybe
Are you going with any sort of underfloor heating for your kitchen? The tiles you have chosen look stunning but I'd be a little worried how cold it could get underfoot.
Very interested to hear more about your kitchen and why you chose the brand you did - I'm thinking along almost identical lines as you when it comes to aesthetics!
Very interested to hear more about your kitchen and why you chose the brand you did - I'm thinking along almost identical lines as you when it comes to aesthetics!
No, we considered it but I don't like electric underfloor heating and it would have been too much steps if we retrofitted the whole house with water underfloor heating - Maybe on the next renovation
Stay tuned, I'll write a detailed kitchen post soon.
Leveling
I used two 30L Plasterers buckets for mixing, these were perfect as they were large enough to compensate for splashes when pouring in the powder + a narrow base which makes it easier to mix with a mixing paddle.
I used a 2L paint kettle to measure the water (4.25L per 25kg bag of Ultraplan).
The only tools I used was a Forged Steel Plastering Trowel to help spread the leveler into the corners etc and a cheap bucket trowel to clean the buckets between mixes.
I went with Mapei Ultraplan Renovation Screed 3240 and Mapei Primer G - It was a good value self leveling compound that was fibre reinforced so it could go up to 40mm thick in a single application. Please note: Ultraplan suggests priming the floor with Mapei Eco Prim T but their technical department confirmed that Primer G was fine (both are acrylic based primers).
I started by patching any large gaps in both rooms using a small tub of Cementone Rapid Setting Cement 10KG, this was to limit wasting the leveler + repaired a damp spot by the back door, I couldn't find a leak so I'm not sure if it was a cold spot or the DPM was damaged. Mapei was confident it would be fine and would only be a problem with vinyl tiled as it would trap the moisture but I didn't want to risk it.
Fitted timber on the steps, keeping them flush and level to the edge - this will make it much easier when tiling to it (neat edge finish).
I cemented the gaps to seal them, this will prevent any leveling compound from leaking.
Primed the old floor, 1:1 ratio of Primer G and water as recommended. Please note: This drops to 1:3 between layers of leveler.
I used two 30L Plasterers buckets for mixing, these were perfect as they were large enough to compensate for splashes when pouring in the powder + a narrow base which makes it easier to mix with a mixing paddle.
I used a 2L paint kettle to measure the water (4.25L per 25kg bag of Ultraplan).
The only tools I used was a Forged Steel Plastering Trowel to help spread the leveler into the corners etc and a cheap bucket trowel to clean the buckets between mixes.
I went with Mapei Ultraplan Renovation Screed 3240 and Mapei Primer G - It was a good value self leveling compound that was fibre reinforced so it could go up to 40mm thick in a single application. Please note: Ultraplan suggests priming the floor with Mapei Eco Prim T but their technical department confirmed that Primer G was fine (both are acrylic based primers).
I started by patching any large gaps in both rooms using a small tub of Cementone Rapid Setting Cement 10KG, this was to limit wasting the leveler + repaired a damp spot by the back door, I couldn't find a leak so I'm not sure if it was a cold spot or the DPM was damaged. Mapei was confident it would be fine and would only be a problem with vinyl tiled as it would trap the moisture but I didn't want to risk it.
Fitted timber on the steps, keeping them flush and level to the edge - this will make it much easier when tiling to it (neat edge finish).
I cemented the gaps to seal them, this will prevent any leveling compound from leaking.
Primed the old floor, 1:1 ratio of Primer G and water as recommended. Please note: This drops to 1:3 between layers of leveler.
Mixing - Self Leveling Compound
I'll be honest with you, my first attempt was a disaster... I started off with a 14L bucket and a small paint mixing paddle which overfilled. I had to quickly transfer the mix to a large gorilla bucket - Mixing 25KG of leveler with a small paint paddle and a wide based gorilla bucket was hard work and it showed in the mix - luckily it was forgiving, although it looked light and dusty, it managed to pass the finger nail test (It set solid and I couldn't mark it with my finger nail). So this is why I recommend the 30L plasterer buckets
Here was my first layer, my first attempt was the light mix towards the back of the room - you can see the second darker mix that I poured from the step and back door.
Once dried:
But after this small trial run, I got the larger buckets + mixing paddle and started to perfect the mix to the best of my drills ability haha, more on this below.
I've only got a old 700W and 800W drill with 10mm chuck (suitable for the mixing paddles I bought), the large paddle burns out the drill - so I start the mix with the small paddle, adding half a bag first, then slowly add the rest. Once it's almost mixed, I'll use the large paddle to catch any large lumps that I might have missed.
Baby paddle
Large paddle (140mm), see the difference!
I later bought a Paddle Mixer Adapter for my SDS drill which didn't flinch, highly recommended
Some tips when mixing:
I'll be honest with you, my first attempt was a disaster... I started off with a 14L bucket and a small paint mixing paddle which overfilled. I had to quickly transfer the mix to a large gorilla bucket - Mixing 25KG of leveler with a small paint paddle and a wide based gorilla bucket was hard work and it showed in the mix - luckily it was forgiving, although it looked light and dusty, it managed to pass the finger nail test (It set solid and I couldn't mark it with my finger nail). So this is why I recommend the 30L plasterer buckets
Here was my first layer, my first attempt was the light mix towards the back of the room - you can see the second darker mix that I poured from the step and back door.
Once dried:
But after this small trial run, I got the larger buckets + mixing paddle and started to perfect the mix to the best of my drills ability haha, more on this below.
I've only got a old 700W and 800W drill with 10mm chuck (suitable for the mixing paddles I bought), the large paddle burns out the drill - so I start the mix with the small paddle, adding half a bag first, then slowly add the rest. Once it's almost mixed, I'll use the large paddle to catch any large lumps that I might have missed.
Baby paddle
Large paddle (140mm), see the difference!
I later bought a Paddle Mixer Adapter for my SDS drill which didn't flinch, highly recommended
Some tips when mixing:
- Start off with about 1/2 bag and slowly add whilst mixing - this was the quickest way for me to get a nice lump free mix.
- ALWAYS keep the paddle submerged in the mix to prevent trapping air and causing foamy bubbles
- Once lump free, leave the mix to slacken for 3 minutes before giving it a stir and pouring
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Once dry, you can prime (1:3 ratio) if another layer of leveler is needed.
Here is my second layer, a far more consistent mix.
Result - level and flat in most places but 3-5mm gap towards the back where I must have been too reserved.
Although I could have gotten away with this, I couldn't resist but to try tapering it flat - I might have pushed my luck too far and will find out tomorrow if it's flat or caused a hump haha.
I primed the area, and marked a line on the deepest point - then poured and tapered out with a trowel.
Here is my second layer, a far more consistent mix.
Result - level and flat in most places but 3-5mm gap towards the back where I must have been too reserved.
Although I could have gotten away with this, I couldn't resist but to try tapering it flat - I might have pushed my luck too far and will find out tomorrow if it's flat or caused a hump haha.
I primed the area, and marked a line on the deepest point - then poured and tapered out with a trowel.
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Kitchen Floor
The first layer in the kitchen went on well, the hardest part was getting the mixing done quick enough after each pour. The mix starts to dry after 20 minutes and goes tacky, so it was important to get each pour infusing and settling as one.
Primed (1:1)
7 bags poured:
Note: Ultraplan takes 1-3 days to dry depending on the thickness and temperature, I kept the heating on low throughout the night to keep the chill away - Mapei warns not to go below 5 degrees celsius. I found it fine to walk on within 24 hours (my layers were 20mm thick).
Todays layer and hopefully last.
Primed (1:3)
5 bags poured:
The first layer in the kitchen went on well, the hardest part was getting the mixing done quick enough after each pour. The mix starts to dry after 20 minutes and goes tacky, so it was important to get each pour infusing and settling as one.
Primed (1:1)
7 bags poured:
Note: Ultraplan takes 1-3 days to dry depending on the thickness and temperature, I kept the heating on low throughout the night to keep the chill away - Mapei warns not to go below 5 degrees celsius. I found it fine to walk on within 24 hours (my layers were 20mm thick).
Todays layer and hopefully last.
Primed (1:3)
5 bags poured:
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