First Water Project: The Mad Titan

Size and length you can do something about; it's if they're in different places that you've got problems.

How clear is that purple backplate? If you were to put some LED striplights round the edge of it - and I mean with the LEDs facing against the edge not on the front near the edge - could you edge-light it? Might need the panel shaving down at the edges by a mm or two to fit them but could look really cool....or disappointing.

I have an idea for that... I need to be careful about the subtle stealth type look not being offset to much by leds or the liquid, but I think I have it covered! ;)

Watch this space! :)

Cheers
Ras
 
First loop complete (other than pump to res - need to complete the plate mod and pass through positions for that first):

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Question: Would it look better with the bitspower water bridge rather than the EK one? Thoughts please!

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Have you considered using individual fittings and acrylic tubing to link each card, it's a bit more work but personally I have always thought it looked neater than using a block and you can still see the coolant colour. An example would be any of the 8pack systems.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/8pac...-4.7ghz-extreme-overclocked-pc-fs-002-8p.html

Anyhow this sort of thing is in the eye of the beholder so best go with whatever you personally prefer.
 
There's not a lot of difference between the two to be honest - both just clear blocks of acrylic. Just depends if you like the Bitspower logo more than the EK - I certainly wouldn't buy the Bitspower one if you already have the EK.
 
There's not a lot of difference between the two to be honest - both just clear blocks of acrylic. Just depends if you like the Bitspower logo more than the EK - I certainly wouldn't buy the Bitspower one if you already have the EK.

Fair enough, I will see what i think when its finished - but I am inclined to agree with you mate.

Cheers
Ben
 
Have you considered using individual fittings and acrylic tubing to link each card, it's a bit more work but personally I have always thought it looked neater than using a block and you can still see the coolant colour. An example would be any of the 8pack systems.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/8pac...-4.7ghz-extreme-overclocked-pc-fs-002-8p.html

Anyhow this sort of thing is in the eye of the beholder so best go with whatever you personally prefer.

I have indeed - and I might go for this later when i change the cards... honestly being my first foray into WC'ing I am not sure I would do a great job! :)

I will give it some thought though. Thank you! :)
Cheers
Ras
 
Small update: Got the first part of the CPU loop done - it's so hard to get those angles right! I am not 100% happy with it, but i think it looks pretty good.

IMiM4S5l.jpg

Also the HD bridge arrived - I will mod the green to yellow or purple or go carbon all over... not sure which though!

Cheers
Ras
 
Another quick update - my Telios set should be here on saturday! :)

Here are some photos from James at Pexon:

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1RB7lPQl.jpg

Cheers
Ras
 
Cables are looking nice.
SimpleMr: you think the RAM is overkill? Check out the THREE pumps! He's only trying to outnumber my pump upgrade ;) :p
 
Update - just one bend a a bit of tidying up to do! I have found that freehand bending is WAY better than jig bending!

A BIG thank you to Davina and James @ Pexon PCs their cables are second to none!

S8YiSUwl.jpg

Cheers
Ras
 
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Update - just one bend a a bit of tidying up to do! I have found that freehand bending is WAY better than jig bending!

A BIG thank you to Davina and James @ Pexon PCs their cables are second to none!


Cheers
Ras

Those cables look great, will have a look at Pexon, had not heard of them before now.
 
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So today I finished the PETG bends - does the Hard in Hardline equate to difficulty?! ;) I genuinely struggled with the complex bends... Two or three I am just not happy with but I will look at them again when I upgrade in December. I changed the lower cpu run as it had two many Bitspower pieces in it! :)

DRPmcS6l.jpg

What do you guys think as my first custom water cooling loops?

Also, I bought some XSPC LEDs and I'm not sure they are yellow.. What do you think?
WY4lcVkl.jpg

Cheers
Ras
 
They do look more orange than yellow. Not sure if all of them are though.
You can go RGB but you need a controller. Aquaero has one port for a single RGB LED.

Colour Work (aka Farbwerk) has headers for four strips of RGB LED but you can (I hope!) run individual LEDs off them if you can find the right sort and solder in the right resistors. If you're interested I can give you more details but I figure I've probably put you off already! Will post some more details on my project when the RGB LEDs turn up and I've tested the theory - right now I've got the resistors and the farbwerk but no LEDs
 
Can the cables not fit behind the plexi tube? only reason I say that is for aesthetics. It looks damned awesome don't get me wrong but personally I'd try and hide the cables to see the tubes fully.
 
They do look more orange than yellow. Not sure if all of them are though.
You can go RGB but you need a controller. Aquaero has one port for a single RGB LED.

Colour Work (aka Farbwerk) has headers for four strips of RGB LED but you can (I hope!) run individual LEDs off them if you can find the right sort and solder in the right resistors. If you're interested I can give you more details but I figure I've probably put you off already! Will post some more details on my project when the RGB LEDs turn up and I've tested the theory - right now I've got the resistors and the farbwerk but no LEDs

Thanks mate, I will continue to watch your build with much interest! :)

Can the cables not fit behind the plexi tube? only reason I say that is for aesthetics. It looks damned awesome don't get me wrong but personally I'd try and hide the cables to see the tubes fully.

I flipped between in front and behind (that's what she said) but eventually went for in front as I liked the contrast... I will see how I get on though... ;)

Cheers
Ras
 
I flipped between in front and behind (that's what she said) but eventually went for in front as I liked the contrast... I will see how I get on though... ;)

Cheers
Ras

If you can train the PET sleeving enough, I think you should have each set of 6+8 pin bend behind each GPU below.

Have 3x nice small curve, just like your tidy 24 pin. The yellow is a bit too dominating if it runs that close to the side panel.
 
If you can train the PET sleeving enough, I think you should have each set of 6+8 pin bend behind each GPU below.

Have 3x nice small curve, just like your tidy 24 pin. The yellow is a bit too dominating if it runs that close to the side panel.

That's good advice, it's more difficult to do with this type of sleeping, but I will give it a go when my GPU backplates arrive. I quite like the large loop though,but it's difficult to keep tidy.

The GPU loop will be purple and the CPU yellow so this should even things out a bit.

Thanks for the advice!
Cheers
Ras
 
Ok I have had a chat with EK and they advised the following:
  • XE 480 with 120ER Vardar fans can dissipate up to 800W with coolant temperature 10°C above ambient.
  • PE 480 with 120ER Vardar fans can dissipate up to 670W with coolant temperature 10°C above ambient.
  • SE 480 with 120ER Vardar fans can dissipate up to 560W with coolant temperature 10°C above ambient.

I think I am going to go with the SE as it will give me 35mm back into the case.

Cheers :)

In general, each addition of 120mm gives you much better cooling than adding more thickness where you will only see a few degrees here and there realistically
 
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