Ah nice might try it with my 7m wall... Is there a video on how you're meant to single lift it?
Garden room / posh shed /workshop build log
- Thread starter Buffman
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I think in his solo build video he did. TBH the main thing is being ready to secure it - so have an offcut of 4x2 with 45s cut into each end, and the screw mostly home in the right face of it lol.
It didn't move nearly as much as I expected - I don't think I toenailed it or anything, but I believe that is the "official" way, i.e. whack a nail through it so it can "pivot" and not fall backwards.
Day 3 of a garden room build tutorial
Day 3, like a total tool, I forgot the Paslode and Davey forgot the levels. Not the best start to a day or a build tutorial. But in true style we over came t...www.youtube.com
1:10 but obviously half the size!
If you think it's too much, you could "chop" the fall and do it in two halves.
Funnily enough I just watched that! That's the main miniseries I'm going to watch.
I'll try it on the 7metres, got a few hop ups I can put under it.
Where I've got my 4.8m lengths on the header wall did you add a double timber to support it?
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Floor is in.
Any issues from the neighbors?
Not yet..... Altho I am going to go slightly over the permitted development (circa 2.6m in height) so here's hoping even if there are issues id have planning accepted (over 1m off all boundaries). Gonna have 200mm extra headroom over the build pack and doors I've ordered are 2100 high.
I realise fitting the back wall and overhang and gutter is going to be a pain in ass!
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@dlockers did you cut your boards flush with your frame or allow a small overhang to stop the OSB clashing with the wall?
Looks like to stop a clash would need a 2cm or so offset if that makes sense. But realise with walls over 2.3m and 100mm floor beams the 2.4m OSB probably won't hit it anyway.
Looks like to stop a clash would need a 2cm or so offset if that makes sense. But realise with walls over 2.3m and 100mm floor beams the 2.4m OSB probably won't hit it anyway.
Yeah I thought generally the whole idea seems a bit low for internal head height to be honest. I guess it's so the people selling them don't need to block themselves with planning but if doing DIY can either sort the planning or take the risk.
I'm talking about this overhang of the floor sorry, how much past the floor is yours? (if at all?)
Ah cool, to be honest as I'm now so tight at the back I might be tempted to jigsaw it flush but think it will be able to square up my floor slightly.
Made part of the wall and need to put horizontal battens on then lift it. It says to screw the osb3 to the wall every 300mm which seems crazy amounts of fixings (especially as the battens will further tie it down so I've done far less
I was thinking for horizontal to only put 4 or so battens to support this. Seems it only needs every 1200mm anyways
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I've split the long wall into a 4.8m length and 2.3 ish length.
I was thinking for horizontal to only put 4 or so battens to support this. Seems it only needs every 1200mm anyways
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I've split the long wall into a 4.8m length and 2.3 ish length.
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They go right along garden so no
They say just about horizontal for a couple I've seen but surely that risks standing water behind it? Can't be any risk if you can fit vertical.
When you say correctly what do you mean? I did bottom first then a significant overlap (as its longer than I require.)hopefully that's right
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Oh aye done the bottom sheet first so should be sound (at least I hope I have!!)Yeah I am with you - going to do it vertically and line up with the metal fixings.
Correctly - as in, when its stood up, the overlap means rain will drip from top to bottom and not go from top sheet, behind the sheet beneath it etc. Imagine cladding but clad upside down. I think it is an easier mistake to make when it is on the floor!!
Glad I made this wall in half's, needed the wife to help me lift the 4.8m section
Couple qs mainly for @dlockers :
I am slightly out of plumb on the outside of the built corner but the inside is Bob on. Presume that is due to something wrong with timber? It's inside the level bubble so preshme it's fine.
I made a mistake with the OSB in that corner so had to make a slither end on the back wall rather than tie it to the adjacent wall
Also a dumb question..... Is much of an overhang required at the back (presumably mainly so it passes your cladding?) and do you even need a gutter if you have an EPDM roof?
Going to be a bit tight here
Couple qs mainly for @dlockers :
I am slightly out of plumb on the outside of the built corner but the inside is Bob on. Presume that is due to something wrong with timber? It's inside the level bubble so preshme it's fine.
I made a mistake with the OSB in that corner so had to make a slither end on the back wall rather than tie it to the adjacent wall
Also a dumb question..... Is much of an overhang required at the back (presumably mainly so it passes your cladding?) and do you even need a gutter if you have an EPDM roof?
Going to be a bit tight here
Ah yeah that makes sense about the gutter thanks.
Why do you think 15cm? I was thinking the 50mm to overcome the battens plus say 50mm which will be more than the sheet cladding. Then whatever a gutter is.
Also think I've ****** my hands up/given myself carpal tunnel, hopefully it goes away when I have a break!
Realise I put the side wall all the way to the front rather than leave room for the front to "cut in place. Hopefully a packer on the top will solve that :X
All the **** is behind the photoVery neat and very tidy, did you clean up just to take photos
Got the 3rd wall up today and fixed the other side wall but that's it.
Did you fill your steel with insulation @dlockers ? Is it necessary?
Did you fill your steel with insulation @dlockers ? Is it necessary?
Got my final wall built but will need some help to lift it, especially as it's now soaked up a load of rain!
Cut out the openings for 2* 600mm wide by 2100mm height windows and made the steel wall for the French doors (opening will be 1900 wide by 2100). Before I put the windows in I'll cut the base plate so the windows align horizontally with the door.
In the end bought a 2.3m steel for 140 quid which seemed quite good.
Cut out the openings for 2* 600mm wide by 2100mm height windows and made the steel wall for the French doors (opening will be 1900 wide by 2100). Before I put the windows in I'll cut the base plate so the windows align horizontally with the door.
In the end bought a 2.3m steel for 140 quid which seemed quite good.
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Managed to get the wall up, it's perfect in the prop bits but on Corner it's about 3mm out of plumb on a 1.8m level. Presume that's not a big deal @dlockers ?
As you can tell I over think it
As you can tell I over think it
I went for the Oakwood "ladder" way to lift the steel. Felt quite easy so yeah could probably do with just one set of pins or my taller ladder.
Also the build pack 200mm leaves **** all room for the tech screws to the steel from the bottom.
The rip on the steel I've slightly ballsed up and it sits lower than the steel but guess it doesn't matter
What do you think for this detail on the breather membrane. Does it matter if I get a 3rd sheet going right to left to cover the gap?
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How's this look for soffits /fascias? Seems expensive! :'( @dlockers
Do you know if the j trim is required?
Do you know if the j trim is required?
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I put the roof beams in today and there's multiple 100mm screws (4 to 6) in each beam. Should be fine.
I think you already replied @dlockers on fb but this is a weird detail I think you told me about.
The gaps make sense to fill with PIR but even the blocking is only 2" thick rather than 4". Suppose if you use 50mm PIR the heat loss would be pretty similar.
300mm overhang is very close at the front to this tree!
