GOLF VR6 100k miles

I have just picked mine up now, as soon as I got to leicester put it on the rolling road. 189bhp and 173 lb/ft. Not bad for a 170K engine! :)

I spy a 6 - 2 - 1 tubular manifold, big bore exhaust, could have a larger TB and could have cams (not sure..?). What chip or software are people using to re-map?

Will get some pics of car and RR graph on the gallery tomorrow if i have time.
 
Can i just ask a question, all these people complaining about belt changing intervals on their cars, tried looking at the belt to see visible signs of wear. . . ?
 
Pants said:
I have just picked mine up now, as soon as I got to leicester put it on the rolling road. 189bhp and 173 lb/ft. Not bad for a 170K engine! :)

I spy a 6 - 2 - 1 tubular manifold, big bore exhaust, could have a larger TB and could have cams (not sure..?). What chip or software are people using to re-map?

Will get some pics of car and RR graph on the gallery tomorrow if i have time.
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yup as long as the engine is healthy, has good compression the output of the engine will usually exceed factory vr6 figures.

sounds like a plan! grab a tubular manifold, complete 2 1/4 full system (to big and gassflow slows down, has time to cool and then you actually get more back pressure!)

if your gonna put higher lift cams in it I would really recommend getting the head ported, gas flowed, re skimmed and fit a metal gasket.

a larger throttle body will help to.

if your car is obd 2 theres really is no need to mess about with the ignition and fuelling map, it will have enough scope to cope with those modification, and adjust according to knock etc...
 
Hi, sorry my post may have been misleading.

The car is OBD1, but when I say I spy, I mean the mods are already on the car!

But I can't confirm the cams or TB as not had the rocker cover off and I don't know what a standard TB looks like (the one on mine look big tho!).

Does the OBD1 also have enough scope to deal with these mods standard or should I invest in some Omex 600?

The car was 1K for a reason tho, I need a full suspension (quality one if possible), new gear linkage's or bush's and the clutch is behaving very odd. It slips when you put the power down then regains grip. It's like the more you abuse the clutch the more it grips? Werd.

Will be a lovely motor when i'm done with it.
 
my mondeo si snapped a belt at 142k :) original belt too i foolishly assumed it had been changed when i bought at 110k alas no makes me wish i had looked atht the S/H in more depth :)
 
W!ll said:
Can i just ask a question, all these people complaining about belt changing intervals on their cars, tried looking at the belt to see visible signs of wear. . . ?
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Cant always see or estimate the wear and tear that way unfortunately
 
W!ll said:
Can i just ask a question, all these people complaining about belt changing intervals on their cars, tried looking at the belt to see visible signs of wear. . . ?
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Also it's quite likely your belt snapping will actually be because your tensioner locked up and the belt was ok...
 
Pants said:
Hi, sorry my post may have been misleading.

The car is OBD1, but when I say I spy, I mean the mods are already on the car!

But I can't confirm the cams or TB as not had the rocker cover off and I don't know what a standard TB looks like (the one on mine look big tho!).

Does the OBD1 also have enough scope to deal with these mods standard or should I invest in some Omex 600?

The car was 1K for a reason tho, I need a full suspension (quality one if possible), new gear linkage's or bush's and the clutch is behaving very odd. It slips when you put the power down then regains grip. It's like the more you abuse the clutch the more it grips? Werd.

Will be a lovely motor when i'm done with it.
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lol I thought a whole 15bhp over stock was pretty damn good! although you can never tell with some dyno operators :rolleyes:

Omex 600?! sweet! I have the manual right in front of me! my friend has pretty much decided to fit this engine management system to his rover t16 turbo, so ive been trying to get my head around the ecu, ready to whip up a loom to plumb it into his car. Im trying to track down the MAP3000 Software, but i guess i will have to wait till he gets the ecu :(
one big problem you have with the omex 600 and a vr6 motor, it is really only optimised for 4 cylinder engines. semi-sequential injection triggering and the ability to use a distributerless ignition system is not possible with the 600 when running any more than 4 cyl. you can run the injectors grouped and continue to use the vr6 distributer but it isnt as ideal. the omex 600 is also heavily orientated towards forced induction engines, turbo wastegate control, turbo anti-lag system, intercooler water spray control etc etc....

great for an evo not so great for vr6 golf :(

with regards to your clutch slip you may find you have a gearbox or rear main crank bearing oil leak, which gets on the clutch plate and cause it to slip until the oil burns off.
 
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I owned a VR6 for a year or so - great car. They are prone to water leaks which leads to overheating and head gasket failiure, the hydraulic cluch slave cylinder can go a bit sticky and eventually fail and they are prone to a bit of rust on the sills - nothing drastic tho.
Replacement OEM exhaust are very expencive - its normally cheaper to get a performance one and this has ofeten been done on older ones.
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As far as the Ford Zetec cambelt discussion goes - iv been in the car game for over 10 years now and im sure i remeber Ford along with vauxhall revising their cambelt change mileage to about 70k after a lot of failures - defo the Vauxhall ecotec was and still is prone to belt failiure. Granted I personally havent seen many zetec belt failiures.
 
Hesky82 said:
to list just a few issues noted with many 2001 mondeo :)
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- Starter Motor death whine leading to eventual failure
-Brake disks warping
-Cooling system failures
-engine noises
-Cutting out when cold, worse when damp
- Heater vent breakage - caused by rubbish flimsy design
- Burning smells - caused by resistor pack in footwell
-Pulling to one side
- HT Lead breakdown - caused by the huge Ford specified plug gap
-cam belt failure
- Wrong oil problems - use 5w30 oil - this TSB was issued 10 years ago
-Catalytic converter breakdown
-Noise on Pull away
-Draft from Door
-Cat Converter Failure damages Braking
- Rubber T Piece Failure - these are common and cause bad warm idle
-Coil Springs Snapping
-Door noises when opening/closing

Most of those common faults were with the earlier Mondeos - if the new ones suffer from so many faults which were common to the early Mondeos then somethings definately wrong with Fords techs!
 
manc said:
I owned a VR6 for a year or so - great car. They are prone to water leaks which leads to overheating and head gasket failiure, the hydraulic cluch slave cylinder can go a bit sticky and eventually fail and they are prone to a bit of rust on the sills - nothing drastic tho.
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Do you think that is what could be wrong with mine, i.e. when I floor it the clutch slips but the regains grip and pulls to redline?

Even if I drop the clutch in 5th at 6000 rpm it will grip.

It's got to be either slave cylinder, oil leak, or it simply needs a new clutch!
 
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Fairly recent (bad) pic of mine. Soon to be featured in Golf+ :D
 
I'm going to hopefully have a look at 2 VR6 Highlines 3dr on Thursday, they are £3800 and £3900, do those prices sound about right, one of the cars has done 100k miles, the other 80k miles, from the pics they look like they are in very good condition.
 
Yeah, they are both the right colours then. Should have BBS solitudes on them, and no side skirt or plastic wheel arch. Gearknob should be wood and they should have puddle lights in the doors. Check the V5 too, to prove that it is an original highline. :)
 
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