Hand made Infill plane (woodwork)

Now the Cupid bows are cut I can start to shape the plane sides.

I used double sided tape to fix the two halves together then stuck my paper template onto that.

I then cut the shape out on the band saw

srJFXoA.jpg

I then went over the shape with files to clean it up. I won't bother getting it exactly right at this point as I'll be sanding it later once the wooden infill is made and fitted.

DQ5TyjE.jpg

Finally the plane is taking on some sort of shape!

XPu9qH8.jpg

That's all for this evening as time got away from me.

Next up is the part I'm most dreading, peening.
 
Now that the plane sides have been cut to shape I can permanently fix them to the sole.

This is done by peening the metal surfaces together to create a tight fit that will not come apart.

I started by machining a piece of wood to the exact internal dimension of the sole. I made sure it was straight and square as this will help to hold the sides of the plane square when i peen them.
I fixed the piece of wood inside of the plane body and secured it in place with G cramps and screws.

8Z3r9YG.jpg

It's make or break time, this is either going to go well or totally ruin all of the work so far leaving me with no choice but to scrap what I've done and start again.

I needed to peen the side dovetails first as this will drive the sole of the plane tight onto the sides.

I secured the plane into my bench vice and fixed a G-cramp around the dovetail I was working on. This was to help keep the metal from spreading outwards.
I then used a combination of metal punches to try and drive the metal into the cupid bows.

I found that working from the outer edge towards the centre helped to get the brass where it needed to go.

QS5wiOm.jpg

Filling the bow part was hard enough but trying to drive the brass all the way to the point of the cupid bow was incredibly difficult.

I found the hammering force needed was far greater than I had imagined and I was getting a lot of bounce from my bench vice making it even harder work.
I tried hammering on top of an anvil but found the plane would bounce even worse. At least with it held in a vice it left both hands free to work.

Here you can see that the bows are filled but I still need to drive the brass in to the point.

WtVhmlD.jpg

I also found that while brass is quite soft it's also brittle. On a few occasions small pieces would crack and break off as can be seen on the right of the first dovetail.

HukmzWF.jpg

I knew this stage was going to be tough but it was much more difficult than I had anticipated. The bounce from my vice was hindering progress and my poor technique certainly wasn't helping either.
But I persevered, wedging a large bit of wood under my vice as a leg helped to take some of the bounce away and with each dovetail my technique was improving until they where all done.

IRXxEt8.jpg

All I had to do now was peen the steel dovetails on the side of the plane.

I thought I'd have no chance of getting it done, brass is softer than steel and that's been a nightmare but to my surprise the steel seemed easier to peen than the brass.
I used the same technique of clamping the plane in the vice and working from the outside in to drive the dovetail up tight.

With all of the peening done it was time to file away the surplus metal and flatten the sides to reveal the results.
I used a mixture of files to remove the bulk of the waste then fixed 60 grit sand paper to the bed of our over hand planer.
It has a solid cast iron bed which is very sturdy and nice and flat.

thankfully the side dovetails where looking good

P5xzWnR.jpg

And after a lot of filing and sanding the sole dovetails could be seen.

inPEHp6.jpg

i1XHqqU.jpg

ZVqXnh8.jpg

In total with filing and sanding this stage alone took around 5 hours and while they are not perfect I'm pretty happy with the results for my first attempt.
There are some gaps that I'm not happy with but the majority of them came up well.

The project still has a long way to go but I've learnt so much already from it. It's been hard work but rewarding too. I was most apprehensive of this stage and I'm glad its done, I don't think my arms could have taken much more hammering :)
 
That looks brilliant! Love those bowed dovetails in the sole.

I think the brittleness of the brass is probably due to work hardening. It gets harder and more brittle the more you hammer on it and move it around. Could try annealing it with a torch but i'm not sure how that would work with the 2 different metals. Different expansion/contraction rates between them might cause some more gaps? Looks like it's turned out really well for you anyway.
 
******* bravo :cool:

That is simply stunning! Must be really satisfying to reveal that beauty as you file off the waste. Similar to when you laminate several different woods and can shave off the mess to expose perfect layering. Even the shavings are stripy then.

That's really impressive work mate, I'd buy you a beer for the satisfaction I've got watching it happen!
 
Thanks for the comments guys I really appreciate it.

I think the brittleness of the brass is probably due to work hardening. It gets harder and more brittle the more you hammer on it and move it around. Could try annealing it with a torch but i'm not sure how that would work with the 2 different metals. Different expansion/contraction rates between them might cause some more gaps? Looks like it's turned out really well for you anyway.

I didn't know that about brass. It makes sense now, it seemed to get harder the more I went on.
I'm considering trying to fill the gaps with silver solder. Again not done any brazing before so I'm not sure yet.
My main concern with adding heat is it might warp the sole which would potentially ruin the plane.

Have you gotta do the same thing with the steel (force into the “bow and point”)

I'm leaving the cupid bows on the side of the plane unfilled. I had always intended to do it like this and didn't leave enough steel to peen any way.

That's really impressive work mate, I'd buy you a beer for the satisfaction I've got watching it happen!

Thank you :) still have a long way to go yet.
 
Really cool! In this age where everything is cheaply made and disposable it's great to see something so creative like this and seeing the progress. I'm sure you'll treasure it forever. :)
 
Finally with the sides and sole secured I can move onto the wooden in fill.

Traditionally Box wood, Rose wood and Ebony where the most popular choice for metal infill planes.
Unfortunately these woods are hard to come by now and if you do find a piece there is a high price tag to go along with it.
Wooden moulding planes where normally made from Oak and some from Beech or Ash.
Many different woods have been used for plane making but these where the most popular.

The main criteria for the infill is that its strong, Tight grained straight timber that's been seasoned well.

We have a nice variety of woods at work but one of my favourites is Hard Maple.
Beautifully white in colour with dark cathedrals. Its very tight grained and strong, just right for an infill.
I was even luckier that we had a piece with some "birds eye" in which is stunning when polished.

Only down side is it wasn't thick enough so I had to glue two bits together.

7XKyZMl.jpg

Here you can see some of the "birds eye" figuring in the grain.

2KGaDes.jpg

Once the glue had set I planed the Maple so it was a tight fit into the plane body.

Then cut away the excess on the band saw. Hard Maple living up to its name is tough to cut even with a band saw. Though the blade was a bit dull after cutting all the brass.

MX6foky.jpg

With the waste taken away I made a simple jig to hold the plane and infill so I could machine it.

TdeoPHt.jpg

On the over head router I used a twin flute bearing cutting to trim the Maple down flush with the brass sides.
I had to take a cut from each side as the cutter wasn't long enough to do it in one pass.

gBZpnZN.jpg

Maple machines beautifully and I was left with a clean, crisp cut.

I was unsure how I wanted to finish the ends of the plane but in the end settled with a round which I again cut on the band saw.

BvRJoFz.jpg

After some more filing and sanding the profile is complete. Hurrah!

Hp1MIpp.jpg
 
Last edited:
Next up is the Tote.

Lazarus planes incorporate metal into the tote, something I've not seen before. I like them so much I wanted to add something similar to my plane.

After much deliberation I settled on a design I liked then made a paper/MDF template.
I wanted some thing that looked traditional but with a modern twist.

2e1Bdhy.jpg

From there I used the template to cut out two pieces in Cherry wood (another favourite of mine) and one in Maple.

Y5bvhO3.jpg

Then I used the template to mark out the rest of tote onto a piece of 12mm aluminium.
I used the pillar drill to make a series of holes around the lines.

XcxMNJH.jpg

With all the holes drilled all I had to do was cut it out.

L0NbN7Q.jpg

Which I did with a hacksaw.

wjV64ng.jpg

It took a little while, I had to use a junior hacksaw to get round the tighter curves.

R2JMQ4b.jpg

From there I fixed the two Cherry wood pieces to the aluminium with double sided tape. Because the aluminium is soft I could use a oscillating bobbin sander to clean up the outside of the tote in one go. This saved a lot of work sanding a filing by hand.

5G2AlOH.jpg

I want the tote to be a stand out feature of the plane so wanted something bold looking.
I also wanted to shape the tote to fit my hand perfectly and include a palm rest, this is something you don't often see on production planes as they have to cater for many different hand shapes and sizes.

I used a mixture of rasps and files to start shaping the tote.

ejmidNx.jpg

Adding in the palm rest first. I was constantly checking the tote in my hand to make sure it was a comfortable fit and adjusting where needed.

SORmJC9.jpg

The right hand side was getting there, just needs to be sanded through the grits.

dqgnEHR.jpg

I also added a thumb indentation on the left side.

5g3yPvx.jpg

The rear view shows the contours of the tote well. I'm pleased with how it turn out, it fits my hand perfect and is very comfortable.

6RNu8SF.jpg

I've still got to cut and fit the maple piece and sand it all the way up to finish but first I have to fit the aluminium to the infill.


I'm out of time for today though.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the comment.

The extra piece of maple is for the top of the tote. The aluminium wasn't big enough to fill the centre of the tote so I'll use the piece of maple to make up the difference.
I had planned to do it like this anyway as I wanted the top of the tote to be all wood but I wasn't sure how much aluminium I wanted on show so just cute a whole piece of maple out.
 
Next I could fit the aluminium part of the tote to the maple infill.

I marked it out and drilled a series of holes in the maple.

2yn963P.jpg

I then used a gents saw to cut out the remaining waste.

STzFueo.jpg

And finally chisels to get a tight fit

NARvt7J.jpg

The aluminium is sitting proud of the maple at the moment but this will get filed flush once the tote is fitted to the infill.

kQPORW6.jpg

Next I used epoxy to glue the cherry sides and maple top to the aluminium.

9mmMVdY.jpg

Once the epoxy had cured I sanded the tote up to an initial 240 grit.

BZOsPCP.jpg

With that the tote is pretty much complete and ready to be fitted to the infill but there is a lot more to do before that.

f2TKuJy.jpg

IOSnjK2.jpg

I'm pretty happy with how the tote turned out. I like the balance of metal and wood, it's comfortable and its a large feature of the plane almost to the point of being over powering but that's what I was aiming for.

Next up is the front knob.
 
For the front knob I'm keeping with the theme of wood and metal.

I planed an straight edge on a piece of cherry wood, our over hand planer decided to break this morning so I pulled out an old jointer plane I made.

6FtVGba.jpg

Next I went over to the engineering lathe. It doesn't get used much any more and tooling is sparse.
While I've done a fair amount of turning on our wood lathe I've only used this engineering lathe a hand full of times over the years and am only self taught (which equates to me probably doing every thing wrong)

I'm turning soft aluminium so it's not to bad. Here I'm machining the bottom part of the front knob.

mU2bEDi.jpg


From there I cut a piece of the cherry wood and fitted a threaded insert into the centre.

WwqgyYg.jpg

I then used epoxy to glue the aluminium to the cherry wood, using the bolt to pull them tight together.

Once the epoxy had cured I Glued the cherry to a sacrificial piece of wood that I could secure in the wood lathe.

E7rBi62.jpg

Back to the familiarity of the wood lathe I turned the front knob to size.

Zc9rjFP.jpg

Next I marked out and fitted another threaded insert into the maple infill.

we2vPh0.jpg

And finally it's starting to resemble a plane.

4P2uLsR.jpg

zJ5TF5S.jpg

With all of my fumbling with the engineering lathe that was time for another evening.
 
I think patience is the hardest part of this project. I'm trying to do every thing as well as I can and going with the motto that it will take as long as it takes.

As with many things if you start to try and rush it, it soon goes pear shaped.

With that said it is taking longer than I had anticipated :)
 
Back
Top Bottom