Having trouble installing my sub!

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Hi guys

I bought a Fli Trap sub, I've installed the battery wire, the earth wire and the low input wires.

The only one I have not done is the remote one. I presumed I could get away with using my sub without his for the time being but it appears not? Where does this go? I have been told it should go into my head unit, but I cant seem to find a port despite my head unit being quite new..?

Any ideas? Heres a picture from the manual: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11365869/stupidsub.png

I have done it all apart from the "rem" bit. My head unit is a Kenwood 4047u.

Thanks!
 
you should have a loose wire in the wiring harness coming out the back of the headunit, which in most cases i have seen, is blue. This wire is your remote wire.
 
There will be a wire on the back of the head unit, usually blue you need to splice into this, as a temporary solution although I wouldnt recommend it is to connect a small length of wire from 12v+ on the amp to the rem port on the amp.
 
I've got that blue wire which came with the sub, but I can't see anywhere for it to go in my head unit... :(
 
This is what I've done with mine, really need to get around to sorting it properly but it does the job as long as I remember to unplug it overnight!

Not sure if it matters, but if it does: I bought a sub which has an amp built in!
 
Not sure if it matters, but if it does: I bought a sub which has an amp built in!

You could also put the remote on an unused switch in your car, tap into a 12v source run blue wire to the switch then from the switch to the amp , flick switch and profit. Just remember to turn it off after your done otherwise you'll end up with a dead Battery unless the amp has an auto shutdown feature when not receiving signals

i used to do this on my old car i had 6 switches for my amps so they came on in order and progressively louder :D

is it the fli trap 12 by the way ?
 
You could also put the remote on an unused switch in your car, tap into a 12v source run blue wire to the switch then from the switch to the amp , flick switch and profit. Just remember to turn it off after your done otherwise you'll end up with a dead Battery unless the amp has an auto shutdown feature when not receiving signals

i used to do this on my old car i had 6 switches for my amps so they came on in order and progressively louder :D

is it the fli trap 12 by the way ?

Cool, ok. I'll have a look tommorow. Also, yes it is the fli trap 12. Any opinions on it? :)
 
Cool, ok. I'll have a look tommorow. Also, yes it is the fli trap 12. Any opinions on it? :)

Yeah it's not bad for an active, i do custom installs for mates tho ranging from £500 to 10K so i've heard some pretty insane stuff, my latest was a custom build for a VR6 corrado , wanted a single 10 inch and custom stealth box making along with the rest of the boot doing to match. Something i enjoy and also get paid for doing it :)

are you using high pass or RCA's?

Also if you don't have a spare switch in your car you can get one for a couple of quid from a high street retailer who sell that kind of thing, just ask for a 12V circular push switch can be hidden very easily . IIRC they only need a 8mm hole for the casing. I wouldn't connect the remote to the 12v feed for the amp without a switch otherwise u might end up with a dead battery. You can always loop the amp feed run the remote wire from the amp's 12v up to your dashboard connect to switch then trace back to the remote on the Amp. thats the other way if you struggle to find the remote lead on your head unit..

What AWG power cable did you use from your battery too the amp and what fuse?

You need any help just ask mate :)


Few pics of the corrado, lazy **** wouldn't let me do a false floor on the boot cause of the spare wheel would take 3- seconds longer to remove LOL. He supplied everything i just made up the box to fit into the extremely small arch and did the same to the rest then carpeted it all. Next week i got a mk5 golf to do with a Vibe space 12, 3 amps and EQ, He wants everything hidden apart from the sub so should be a interesting one.
Wow long post sorry JD and coke really makes me waffle on

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Nothing wrong with wanting decent sound in your car. Are you a chav for having a decent home audio setup? Nope!
 
no they don't. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with installing quality sounds in your car.

Remote is the signal to switch on your device. You need to connect it to the remote (or electric aerial) connection on your Headunit (I had to splice into the remote wire on the ISO adapter) and into the remote +12v of your amp.

Ant :cool:
 
Be warned tho the electric aerial lead sometimes only comes on when when listening to the radio. My Alpine is on all the time but my old Sony unit was only on when when listening to the radio -- selecting aux in etc turned it off. You could just splice into the switched +12v which goes on and off with the ignition. Then your amp would be running all the time the car is running and go off when you take out the key.

The problem with car audio is the people who whack a massive subwoofer or 6x9s in the boot and don't put any deadening in :(. I've got a set of JL C5-650s up front and a 10w3 in the boot powered by an Audison SRx3. Sounds lovely, and it's all deadened by Dynamat to make sure it's only ME enjoying it ;)
 
The problem with car audio is the people who whack a massive subwoofer or 6x9s in the boot and don't put any deadening in :(. I've got a set of JL C5-650s up front and a 10w3 in the boot powered by an Audison SRx3. Sounds lovely, and it's all deadened by Dynamat to make sure it's only ME enjoying it ;)

How did you find this affected the sound in your cabin?

Ive fitted deading in my boot pan and door panels and the difference certainly wasnt night and day.

Ant :cool:
 
Do those oversized capacitors actually make any difference on just a single 10" driver?

Yeah they can do on old technology amps they smooth out the power delivery to the amp and make sure it stays constant. But it's very car specific depending on the build. Most of the time they are just for show. Lots of people install them not actually knowing how they work.

On the other hand all my JL audio gear was rated from 11.5-14 volts and 1-8 ohm

so no matter now the power fluctuated or how the subs were wired up it would always be constant and consistent power delivery.

The best thing anyone can do is get an uprated alternator and battery as this will stop the lights dimming when the bass hits hard. I used to get pulled a lot by police 8+ years ago cause my lights used to dim on heavy bass lines, uprated the alternator installed a yellow top deep cycle battery and problem solved.
 
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