Heat Pumps: anyone have one/thought about it?

The usual ignorance in the comments on that article. I can never understand why some are so hostile to solar/EVs/heat pumps? It's bizarre.
They probably get their info from Facebook, or they've had a bad install, or they try to use them like a boiler.

We know better though, a little over four weeks until my installation.
 
The success of the install comes down to the system design and the general competence of the installer. Price isn’t necessarily an indicator of competence.

I’ve got a cheap entry level install from Octopus and it’s quiet and incredibly cheap to run and that’s before considering time of use electricity, solar and batteries.

I’ve seen people spend multiple times what I did and got an install which didn’t work because the installer was completely incompetent. That said, this is getting less common and even the bad installers are starting to ‘get it’.

The ingredients for a successful install are:
A decent heat loss survey
A simple system designed to run as a single loop running the same flow temperature in all parts of the property.
Correctly sized heat pump for the heat loss.
Correctly configured controls with weather compensation.
Sufficient water volume in the system itself.
Fit as the largest water cylinder you physically have space for although this is a nice to have, a standard 180-200l cylinder is fine.

That’s basically it. KISS is very much the approach here.

That’s bad is:
Oversized heat pumps (this is really bad)
Undersized radiators (as above)
3rd party controls
Generally trying to be ‘clever’ with zoning, pumps and trying to run things at different flow temperatures - it does not work.

You can bin off third party thermostats, any underfloor heating actuators, supplementary pumps, TRVs (leave them installed and fully open as still required for EPC ratings). You don’t need any of it, it, it just adds expense and lowers performance.

As for the video, it’s complete nonsense hot air to keep your typical skill builder viewer happy, no detail, no substance. The comments are an absolute dumpster fire.

Yes I agree it is down to the design of the system. Octopus was very good we had two site visits our heat loss was calculated at 7.6kW, first visit suggested a 8kW system first but this was upgraded to a 9kW heat pump after the second visit in the end. Maybe we could have run with the 8kW which would be cheaper to run but the house is very large.

We did have a number of problems in balancing the underfloor heating down stairs to upstairs that has radiators to the bedrooms. Took them a few visit to resolve the issues, I did ask them to upsize the radiators more so we could run at a lower flow temperature to improve the efficiency of the heap pump. I only had the system installed for the last 6 months, but when I checked the SCOP was just over 3.6 not to bad.

Octopus originally set up the heat pump as a single zone but were forced to reinstall the underfloor heating actuators with the individual room thermostatics downstairs as we found that some rooms were getting to hot.

We found that the heat pump does keep the house warm, works very well with underfloor downstairs but upstairs bedrooms are cooler but not cold, still a learn curve for us.

I would say that it is important to get the radiators sized correctly in the design and the size of the heap pump some companies suggested 11kW to us .
 
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My heat pump naturally cycled off today for the first time since winter due to the heat loss dropping below it’s minimum output.

Outside of my usual overnight preheat on off peak electricity, it’s only ran for about 3 hours today.

We are currently at 22.3 on the thermostat so it’s going to be awhile before it comes on again tonight, if at all. My office is a nice and toasty 23.3C.

It will be short lived mind, it’s due to drop off again next week. As I said in the solar thread, this week has been a bit of a blip in the matrix.
 
Yes I agree it is down to the design of the system. Octopus was very good we had two site visits our heat loss was calculated at 7.6kW, first visit suggested a 8kW system first but this was upgraded to a 9kW heat pump after the second visit in the end. Maybe we could have run with the 8kW which would be cheaper to run but the house is very large.

We did have a number of problems in balancing the underfloor heating down stairs to upstairs that has radiators to the bedrooms. Took them a few visit to resolve the issues, I did ask them to upsize the radiators more so we could run at a lower flow temperature to improve the efficiency of the heap pump. I only had the system installed for the last 6 months, but when I checked the SCOP was just over 3.6 not to bad.

Octopus originally set up the heat pump as a single zone but were forced to reinstall the underfloor heating actuators with the individual room thermostatics downstairs as we found that some rooms were getting to hot.

We found that the heat pump does keep the house warm, works very well with underfloor downstairs but upstairs bedrooms are cooler but not cold, still a learn curve for us.

I would say that it is important to get the radiators sized correctly in the design and the size of the heap pump some companies suggested 11kW to us .
I suspect we're going to have issues like this that have to be ironed out when ours goes in. Although overall the house is still cold enough to need heat at the moment, the kitchen is a wall of windows and heats up to 25C now when it's sunny. We usually just turn off the radiators in there at this time of the year, but I understand this isn't a good idea on a heat pump system. Octopus have actually suggested two radiator upgrades in there for the heat loss too.
 
As your room temperature goes up, the output of your radiators drops due to the temperature difference being reduced.

You’ll probably find it’s fine but you can use your TRVs as needed to prevent overheating (say set them to 4 of 5).

If you are getting a Daikin heat pump, it has a setting called ‘modulation’ which can use the Daikin thermostat to adjust the weather compensation curve based on how far you are overshooting or undershooting the temperature target.
 
We did have a number of problems in balancing the underfloor heating down stairs to upstairs that has radiators to the bedrooms. Took them a few visit to resolve the issues, I did ask them to upsize the radiators more so we could run at a lower flow temperature to improve the efficiency of the heap pump. I only had the system installed for the last 6 months, but when I checked the SCOP was just over 3.6 not to bad.
Has the temperature and quantity of DHW been OK then, for washing up during food prep/shaving ... ? where often use temperatures higher than showers (any immersion heater boosting needed)
 
Has the temperature and quantity of DHW been OK then, for washing up during food prep/shaving ... ? where often use temperatures higher than showers (any immersion heater boosting needed)

Yes I found the hot water to be fine, Heat pump is set to heats up the 300L water cylinder to 52degC overnight using cheap electricity for 1.30 hours. I then use the Eddi to boost with the immersion heater to 60degC for 30 minutes at 4am. The Eddi will use any surplus power from the solar to reheat the water cylinder again if required.
 
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As your room temperature goes up, the output of your radiators drops due to the temperature difference being reduced.

You’ll probably find it’s fine but you can use your TRVs as needed to prevent overheating (say set them to 4 of 5).

If you are getting a Daikin heat pump, it has a setting called ‘modulation’ which can use the Daikin thermostat to adjust the weather compensation curve based on how far you are overshooting or undershooting the temperature target.

The TRV to the upstairs radiators are fully open the heat pump was setup with the Daikin thermostatic in the main bedroom with weather compensation curve.

We found that we needed to use the individual room thermostatics downstairs to prevent overheating in some of the smaller rooms as the builder had set the house up with 12 separate heating loops on the manifold.

Octopus originally had the Daikin thermostatic downstairs in the hall but was switching off too soon so very little heating upstairs, this was later moved upstairs to allow the radiators to stay on longer which worked for us.

Yes it is a Daikin heat pump so I going to have a play with the ‘modulation’ setting
 
Yes I found the hot water to be fine, Heat pump is set to heats up the 300L water cylinder to 52degC overnight using cheap electricity for 1.30 hours. I then use the Eddi to boost with the immersion heater to 60degC for 30minutes at 4am. The Eddi will use any surplus power from the solar to reheat the water cylinder again if required.
thanks- so that's 3/4 Kwh you take from your battery to boost water temp, to leave some headroom in the batteries for following days solar - without solar just using cheap electricity wouldn't be too dear either.
My combi's set at circa 60C and with pipework losses mostly use unmixed hot water in the kitchen, or bathroom basin

(e: thinking about it the cost of topping up the hot water temp 52->60 at overnight rate has similar cost to using gas ...
just checking - hadn't appreciated you can get gas powered heat pumps lol ]
 
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thanks- so that's 3/4 Kwh you take from your battery to boost water temp, to leave some headroom in the batteries for following days solar - without solar just using cheap electricity wouldn't be too dear either.
My combi's set at circa 60C and with pipework losses mostly use unmixed hot water in the kitchen, or bathroom basin

Hot water heating is done overnight at the same time as the 40 kWh batteries are being charged using the off peak electricity (7p per kWh) as I am on the tariff Intelligent Go with Octopus.
 
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Gas boiler has been written off by insurance, valve failed yesterday, water everywhere across the internals and board. Long list of replacement parts needed.

Going back to page 1 to read this thread...
 
To manage expectations, you won't get an ASHP quickly.

By the time an installer has been booked, attended to do the survey, designed the installation, agreed the price, booked the installation, done the paperwork to get the grant and finally installed, you are looking at a timeline measured in months, not days.
 
Yes, three months for me. Initial quote on 15th January and our install date is 22nd April. It might be a little quicker due to the time of year but still a couple of months at least.
 
Gas boiler has been written off by insurance, valve failed yesterday, water everywhere across the internals and board. Long list of replacement parts needed.

Going back to page 1 to read this thread...

My gas boiler only lasted 10 years before the heat exchanger started to leak.

I was lucky that it failed in April last year and I was able to run the hot water from the Eddi but ASHP process took 6 months for me not a quick job.

My ASHP was done by Octopus much cheaper than other companies quoted me.
 
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I suspect we're going to have issues like this that have to be ironed out when ours goes in. Although overall the house is still cold enough to need heat at the moment, the kitchen is a wall of windows and heats up to 25C now when it's sunny. We usually just turn off the radiators in there at this time of the year, but I understand this isn't a good idea on a heat pump system. Octopus have actually suggested two radiator upgrades in there for the heat loss too.

I was expecting some issues with balancing the underfloor heating down stairs to upstairs that has radiators. I general I have been happy with Octopus process in resolving these issues that we had.
 
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Yes I found the hot water to be fine, Heat pump is set to heats up the 300L water cylinder to 52degC overnight using cheap electricity for 1.30 hours. I then use the Eddi to boost with the immersion heater to 60degC for 30minutes at 4am. The Eddi will use any surplus power from the solar to reheat the water cylinder again if required.

Is this for pasteurisation?
 
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