Heat Pumps: anyone have one/thought about it?

[bimbleuk]

To manage expectations, you won't get an ASHP quickly.

By the time an installer has been booked, attended to do the survey, designed the installation, agreed the price, booked the installation, done the paperwork to get the grant and finally installed, you are looking at a timeline measured in months, not days.

Mine has taken almost a year but there were a few changes along the way and a delay waiting for planning permission which I needed for the original Daikin. Then didn't need it for the Cosy 6 when it became available but needed a trench dug. Then switched back to a Daikin for an easier install but then also switched to the loft location rather than the camped airing cupboard. That then neded a full structural survey to get passed.

So a simple 2 bed mid-terrace ended up with 3 surveyor vsits and a final installer visit. Now asking for proper ducting to hide the insulated pipes (no problem with extra cost) and to upgrade all 5 rads rather then the pifling 3 rads.

I'd rather have waited after winter anyway.

 

[Simon D]

Is this for pasteurisation?

Yes normally the immersion heater would be connected to the ASHP this would carry out the pasteurization . I use my Eddi, Octopus setup a schedule to heat the cylinder to 60C and for hold for 45 minutes once a week.

I also have my Eddi to boost the water temperature as well for 30 minutes per day if required as my wife like long hot showers

 

[jpaul]

I use my Eddi, Octopus setup a schedule to heat the cylinder to 60C and for hold for 45 minutes once a week.

so, daily/generally 52C has been fine for DHW ? - from earlier comment I'd thought you were boosting it every day

and to upgrade all 5 rads rather then the pifling 3 rads.

the feed pipework is of sufficient diameter , or that's being updated too (have micro bore, in 2010 property)

 

[b0rn2sk8]

Your microbore will likely be fine if the required output of each individual radiator is below 1000w.

1000w is a substantial radiator and will only be a factor if you have a very large open plan area which is covered by a single radiator which is unlikely to be the case.

 

[bimbleuk]

the feed pipework is of sufficient diameter , or that's being updated too (have micro bore, in 2010 property)

In my case 15mm copper. I asked but as upgrading 3 of my 5 rads meets the heat loss calcs for the 50C flow rate Octopus use. They won't make any changes beyond that. So I will get my MCS certification and then upgrade the last 2 rads myself. So the rads are of similar age and to give me some scope to play with flow rates further.

 

[Simon D]

so, daily/generally 52C has been fine for DHW ? - from earlier comment I'd thought you were boosting it every day


the feed pipework is of sufficient diameter , or that's being updated too (have micro bore, in 2010 property)

Sorry my mistake I have re-edited the post, yes you are correct I do have my Eddi to boost as well for 30 minutes. I had the immersion heater in the cylinder set to to the maximum temperature number 5 (65C).

So in general my hot water is close to 60C or over sometimes in the morning as my wife does like long hot showers.

But I would say that normally 52C would be fine for most people, showering and washing up, but if you like a very hot bath you may need to boost the water temperature. I notice that you can set up the ASHP to re-heat the DHW during the day if required so you can set a minimum DHW temp.

I was also informed by Octopus that the DHW needs to be pasteurization and a separate schedule was setup to heat the cylinder to 60C and for hold for 45 minutes once a week on my Eddi

 

[reef]

Your microbore will likely be fine if the required output of each individual radiator is below 1000w.

1000w is a substantial radiator and will only be a factor if you have a very large open plan area which is covered by a single radiator which is unlikely to be the case.

Is the 1000w a strict rule? We have a single radiator in the living room which is a 1100mm x 600mm K2. At Octopus' 50C design temp, it outputs 894w and they've calculated a heat loss of 727w for that room. The problem is, with the current combi boiler at 55C flow temp, the room doesn't ever get to 20C if it's below about 5C outside. As on paper the radiator is big enough, Octopus aren't replacing it, but I wanted to buy one myself and get them to fit it during installation. The ones in mind are either 1400mm or 1600mm x 600mm K2, which is about 1140w or 1304w at the 50C flow temp. We have 10mm microbore. Would this work?

 

[b0rn2sk8]

Is the 1000w a strict rule? We have a single radiator in the living room which is a 1100mm x 600mm K2. At Octopus' 50C design temp, it outputs 894w and they've calculated a heat loss of 727w for that room. The problem is, with the current combi boiler at 55C flow temp, the room doesn't ever get to 20C if it's below about 5C outside. As on paper the radiator is big enough, Octopus aren't replacing it, but I wanted to buy one myself and get them to fit it during installation. The ones in mind are either 1400mm or 1600mm x 600mm K2, which is about 1140w or 1304w at the 50C flow temp. We have 10mm microbore. Would this work?

It will work but may not get the full power out of it as it will not have enough water flowing to it.

 

[reef]

It will work but may not get the full power out of it as it will not have enough water flowing to it.

Probably best going for the 1400 x 600mm then, as that's about 1140w heat output at 50C flow temp. A little over 1000w, but should be enough to keep it a bit warmer in there. I also hope to reduce that slightly in time, so it should be more suited.

In anticipation we've already replaced the permanently open airflow vents in there for the log burner with closable ones, which has made a big difference.