Soldato
- Joined
- 13 Aug 2004
- Posts
- 8,388
- Location
- England
If you have a drill then a hole saw would work.
Help me stop my desk from going saggy
- Thread starter MrRockliffe
- Start date
And if you want a neat hole then drill half way from the inside then finish from the outside. This avoids the hole blowing out if you drill just one way.
If you can't get at the back use less pressure and just the hole saw spinning do all the work
You can also cover the opposite side in masking tape (or any tape really), which can helps stop the laminate splitting
Something like this https://amzn.eu/d/fVGMaRI ?
Or this: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-6-Piece-Assorted-Hole-Saw-Set/p/500584 ?
Seems like they would make an almighty mess of the wood? I guess I could sand it back, it’s not going to be visible.
Last edited:
Masking tape the front as well and shouldnt be too bad. You'll unlikely be able to sand anything as the wood isn't necessarily solid.
You can always get grommets etc to go into holesaw holes e.g.
Thanks. like I say not too worried about strength as the weight is taken by the other drawers. Right, I'm off to for a last min dash to Wickes. Typical
Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Sep 2020
- Posts
- 4,866
Nice and slow and use a sharp bit!
Also I’d consider using something like button fix to fix the worktop down to the drawers, do them so you have to shift them inwards to take the desk off - it would then require two people to remove it but will be solid and won’t move on the drawers but you also have the option to easily remove it if needed.
Also I’d consider using something like button fix to fix the worktop down to the drawers, do them so you have to shift them inwards to take the desk off - it would then require two people to remove it but will be solid and won’t move on the drawers but you also have the option to easily remove it if needed.
Now I have the hole saw set I’m wondering if I could get bits and pieces to install a usb fan at the top of the rear panel to suck out hot air.
www.instructables.com
My PC isn’t top of the range but it can run hot and will be upgraded at some point. Doubt I need to do the side intake like he did though.
Wondering why they had to be attached to the mobo? Would usb stay on if the plug is on or something?
Cooling an Enclosed Computer Desk - Ikea Alex
Cooling an Enclosed Computer Desk - Ikea Alex: This is my first Instructable. I bought a desk from Ikea, it has two legs on one side and a cabinet on the other to house the PC tower with a shelf for accessories (model name - Alex - http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S09932691/ …
www.instructables.com
My PC isn’t top of the range but it can run hot and will be upgraded at some point. Doubt I need to do the side intake like he did though.
Wondering why they had to be attached to the mobo? Would usb stay on if the plug is on or something?
Deleted User 298457
Deleted User 298457
The Amazon one is substantially better than the Wickes one. Just hold the vacuum next to it while you do it, it'll cut through it like butter. If you want to get particular, the drill bit within the holesaw will be visible on the rear, so you can stop cutting one way and start cutting from the back. This makes it perfect both sides.
Last edited by a moderator:
Soldato
- Joined
- 28 Dec 2017
- Posts
- 9,520
- Location
- Beds
USB is 5 volts, PC headers are 12V. If you factor this in e.g. get some fans that will reliably start at 5V and provide decent airflow, then great. Motherboard can adjust fan speed based on temperature though - worthwhile as a PC in an enclosed space can get toasty. Remember however much air the PC needs to bring in through its multiple fans, that's how much air your cabinet fans must provide also.Now I have the hole saw set I’m wondering if I could get bits and pieces to install a usb fan at the top of the rear panel to suck out hot air.
Cooling an Enclosed Computer Desk - Ikea Alex
Cooling an Enclosed Computer Desk - Ikea Alex: This is my first Instructable. I bought a desk from Ikea, it has two legs on one side and a cabinet on the other to house the PC tower with a shelf for accessories (model name - Alex - http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S09932691/ …
My PC isn’t top of the range but it can run hot and will be upgraded at some point. Doubt I need to do the side intake like he did though.
Wondering why they had to be attached to the mobo? Would usb stay on if the plug is on or something?
Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Sep 2020
- Posts
- 4,866
And if you really want to go the “hole” hog. Start it in reverse. It’ll give it and even cleaner cut. Just do 2 seconds in reverse then forward to mid way. Flip over and do the other side.
I was wondering how on earth you would line up doing it this way but of course the drill pokes through first. Duh
So, last question which I'm going to pearoast in the PC cases forum... I did get the cheaper Wickes one so I could get cracking today. The saws have diameters of 32, 38, 44, 51, 57, 63mm.
I don't have a fan to fit in the back yet but going to pre-drill the hole for it, then I reckon I could (hopefully) fit the fan at a later date without having to move everything around too much.
Looking at fan sizes on OcUK for reference, of course they don't match. They seem to come in 40, 50, 60, 80mm. So err, as a punt what size hole should I drill?
57 for a 60mm fan I guess is the closest? I'm guessing 63mm hole might be in danger of not leaving enough room to mount the fan.
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 28 Dec 2017
- Posts
- 9,520
- Location
- Beds
If you visualise the fan blades as being slightly smaller than the square frame which the measurement comes from... I expect 3mm will be fine. The 4 mounting screw holes are in the square, so outside the circle IYSWIM.I was wondering how on earth you would line up doing it this way but of course the drill pokes through first. Duh
So, last question which I'm going to pearoast in the PC cases forum... I did get the cheaper Wickes one so I could get cracking today. The saws have diameters of 32, 38, 44, 51, 57, 63mm.
I don't have a fan to fit in the back yet but going to pre-drill the hole for it, then I reckon I could (hopefully) fit the fan at a later date without having to move everything around too much.
Looking at fan sizes on OcUK for reference, of course they don't match. They seem to come in 40, 50, 60, 80mm. So err, as a punt what size hole should I drill?
But 57 might perfectly let air through with no leaks around the frame.
Last edited:
The airflow specialists in the case forums are already telling me I need a 120mm fan
Not sure how to achieve that when my biggest blade is 63mm…
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 28 Dec 2017
- Posts
- 9,520
- Location
- Beds
I'd agree, 120mm in and out for a full PC with graphics probably. Is it just that fibre board stuff? If so I'd say Stanley knife and steel rule, cut a square*The airflow specialists in the case forums are already telling me I need a 120mm fan
*Leave 4 corners off diagonally like a weird octagon for mounting screws
Last edited:
Deleted User 298457
Deleted User 298457
What pc is it? Some airflow holes will probably be fine; fans a bit overkill imho.
The OCD in me wants all circles
I do have a coping saw. Maybe draw my 120mm circle, cut a 63mm proportion of that out (to an edge obviously) and use the coping saw to finish the circle. Worth a punt. I'm imagining 3 holes along the top back, like this: o O o with the middle one 120mm for the fan. And a hole at the bottom for cables obvs.It's an old build. i5 3.5Ghz with Geforce 1650 SUPER. It did struggle in the summer in my old desk which had no back on it's cupboard mind. I would like to upgrade it at some point though (when I've stopped spending all my money on the house!)
Deleted User 298457
Deleted User 298457
It's 8 quid for a 120mm hole saw.
Presumably you'll need intake and exhaust?
Presumably you'll need intake and exhaust?
My other half is waiting for me to do this so she can set up my old desk as hers. I'm delaying the rest of her bank hol tidying up plans. Hence the panic buying yesterday
Deleted User 298457
Deleted User 298457
Hah fair. I wouldn't make the fan a p1 issue tho, just get the holes for your cable done and do the fan hole properly. Leave the door open temporarily