Help problem solving PC that won't boot please

I haven't got a new battery, didn't get around to ordering one when I found my wife's scales had the same size, it wasn't lithium but thought it would do.

The motherboard hasn't been plugged in to the PSU since yesterday, I have taken the battery out and will try again in 20 mins or so.

I too have been going through the thread and revisited this:
Plec said:
i5 9600K retail longer guarantee (internal GPU), Gigabyte entry level motherboard as you have no intention of clocking (UK RMA and great representation on forums) - you use your current memory and the on board GPU:
Click to expand...
So I think I will take the 1050 out of the basket and go with the onboard grahics. After all I always have the 980 to fall back on and could order a 1050 anytime.
 
Drewb said:
So I think I will take the 1050 out of the basket and go with the onboard grahics. After all I always have the 980 to fall back on and could order a 1050 anytime.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a plan - but forgot to stress that 4k HDMI output on the CPU is limited to 24Hz - Clicky and it's 60Hz using DP.

The 1050 will do 60Hz on HDMI 2.0 - something to consider.
 
Plec said:
Sounds like a plan - but forgot to stress that 4k HDMI output on the CPU is limited to 24Hz - Clicky and it's 60Hz using DP.
Click to expand...
So if I went for the ASUS Prime Z390-P Intel Z390 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard (one of your options) which has an external DP connector, instead of the Gig in my basket, (I don't see one on the Gig) then I would get 60Hz from onboard and still wouldn't need the 1050. I also have a DP cable running from monitor to floor already. Am I reading this correctly?
 
No joy following the nearly 30 mins of no battery no cables to mobo and definite CMOS reset. Still getting 00 on the onboard LED. I didn't put the graphics card on again but would expect to see the pre and post memory and cpu test codes on the LED.
 
Drewb said:
So if I went for the ASUS Prime Z390-P Intel Z390 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard (one of your options) which has an external DP connector, instead of the Gig in my basket, (I don't see one on the Gig) then I would get 60Hz from onboard and still wouldn't need the 1050. I also have a DP cable running from monitor to floor already. Am I reading this correctly?
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Yes, for some reason the Gigabyte boards skimped on that (weird) given board specs of higher tier boards - but i suppose they figure people will be using discrete GFX cards.

The ASUS does have the DP port as does the MSI - and yes DP output should be 60Hz according to spec (i've not used/tested this myself).
 
I missed the MSI in your post yesterday, I see although it is £30 dearer than the ASUS it also has onboard wifi/ bluetooth. I think the bluetooth could be handy I have a fairly expensive but very comfortable pair of Sennheiser bluetooth headphones I could use instead of the £15 USB headphones I have been using. :)

I think I prefer the MSI, just need to check current PSU has the extra 4 pin power that mobo requires, by check I mean I need to find the modular cables, the current setup with the X99 only needed the 1x24pin and 1x8pin power.
 
Drewb said:
need to check current PSU has the extra 4 pin power that mobo requires, by check I mean I need to find the modular cables, the current setup with the X99 only needed the 1x24pin and 1x8pin power.
Click to expand...
On the PSU output slots does it have a second CPU 8 pin (4+4) slot?

Drewb said:
I missed the MSI in your post yesterday, I see although it is £30 dearer than the ASUS it also has onboard wifi/ bluetooth. I think the bluetooth could be handy I have a fairly expensive but very comfortable pair of Sennheiser bluetooth headphones I could use instead of the £15 USB headphones I have been using. :)
.
Click to expand...

For me that would £30 well spent to remove a lead and rid yourself of those awful headphones - i too am a Sennheiser fan.
 
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Thanks for that, I like the dearer MSI board with the wifi/bluetooth. I have also been playing with the Alpenfohn fan/heatsink and clips. The instructions concentrate on the thermal paste and heatsink attachment not on the clips. I think I may have had the clips back to front making it harder to attach the fan.
So here is my simplified basket.
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £430.08 (includes shipping: £11.10)​
​
 
Plec said:
On the PSU output slots does it have a second CPU 8 pin (4+4) slot?
Click to expand...
I have just found the original PSU box with cables and small leaflet. Yes is the answer, 1xATX 24pin and 2x EPS12v 4+4 pin which are labelled cpu1 and cpu2 on the PSU itself. So I should be good to go with the simpler basket above.
 
Drewb said:
Thanks for that, I like the dearer MSI board with the wifi/bluetooth. I have also been playing with the Alpenfohn fan/heatsink and clips. The instructions concentrate on the thermal paste and heatsink attachment not on the clips. I think I may have had the clips back to front making it harder to attach the fan.
So here is my simplified basket.
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £430.08 (includes shipping: £11.10)
​
Click to expand...

Well, as a side-grade born out of necessity it brings you smack up to date with INTEL - for today :).

You seem confident that your PC needs aren't going to change any time soon and this path does give you the cheapest option of using your present memory and 'hopfully' fully functioning PSU, plus other components if needed in the future.

*Obviously, the complete ****er will be if the PSU is at fault - but you had to pick one or the other.
 
Yes, I do hope I have made the right choice and it's not the PSU.

I will place the order above I think.

In this exceptional case I guess it would be best to try the new mobo/cpu out of the case first wouldn't it, and then before going beyond the bios install in the case and reinstall windows as an upgrade. What do you think?
 
See above post.

Drewb said:
In this exceptional case I guess it would be best to try the new mobo/cpu out of the case first wouldn't it, and then before going beyond the bios install in the case and reinstall windows as an upgrade. What do you think?
Click to expand...
I always assemble new builds and test out of the case first - so i would always say yes - but especially so with your set of circumstances. (You may need to short the power pins, to kickstart it, on that board but I will have to check that later - very simple to do.)

I would consider installing your 980Ti too (outside of the case - but be careful/support it) - as this will rule that out too.
 
I would prefer the lower profile Noctua cooler, but now I have worked out how to use the fan clips properly (and won't have the 980 in the way), it seems a shame to bin the perfectly usable and working Alepfohn. I haven't ordered yet so will have a think on it a bit more.

I have a tube of Arctic thermal paste left over from a fix of a friends overheating PC last year.
 
Drewb said:
I would prefer the lower profile Noctua cooler, but now I have worked out how to use the fan clips properly (and won't have the 980 in the way), it seems a shame to bin the perfectly usable and working Alepfohn. I haven't ordered yet so will have a think on it a bit more.
Click to expand...
Totally, agree - glad you've grown to like your cooler - check for connectivity to your new socket, but Rev C should be Coffee Lake compatible.

Plus, remember you don't need to connect fan when testing for post/BIOS settings - heatsink on its own will be fine.

*I'm away form computer now - i have a meeting at 12 - i'll check in up until that time on phone - but my responses will be limited for next few hours.
 
Well I have changed my mind again, I downloaded the MSI User Guide and while trying to visualize everything I think the small cooler will be better if I ever have to reach for the DIMMs or the CPU power sockets. It's the height of the heatsink (3 times higher than the Noctua) in the Alpenfohn as well as the awkward sideways mounted fan that makes life awkward.
So I am going ahead and ordering what is in effect your last basket posted.
 
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