Hive, really??

Caged said:
If I have a British Gas UP2 programmer (rebadged Drayton I think) then I assume the Hive install is a really simple task?
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Backplate is compatible so yes I think this should just snap on :)

You will need to bypass the room 'stat in the wiring centre.
 
It's here!

I'll let you know if I block the boiler up, electrocute myself, or spray water all over the place :p

Is there a cheaper way to get the frames anywhere does anyone know?

EDIT:

Or not, checking the box its the hot water one lol :(
 
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Rather than start a new thread, thought I'd ask in here. Been looking at the Hive 2 to do the heating and hot water. Looks as though it could be easy enough to install. Setup is Ideal Classic SE15FF, Horstmann Centaurplus C27 programmer, tank stat and a wired Honeywell DT90e room stat. Was just wondering if anyone could say whether it would just be a straight swap of the programmer for the Hive controller? Also, what would you do with the live and switched live at the room stat?

Pic of the wiring at the programmer end.

http://i.imgur.com/VlLmsGF.jpg

Please resize your image.

Wiring diagram in the programmer manual says:
N - Neutral
L - Live
1- HW OFF
2 - CH OFF
3 - HW ON
4 - CH ON
 
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Yes straight swap (make sure you get the dual-channel SLR2 receiver).

Best thing to do with the room stat is find the live and switched live in the wiring centre and bridge them together.
 
GeForce said:
Yes straight swap (make sure you get the dual-channel SLR2 receiver).

Best thing to do with the room stat is find the live and switched live in the wiring centre and bridge them together.
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Great, thanks :) Can I just link the live and switched live with a terminal block at the room stat end? Would make it a bit easier to change back if there was ever a need.

Apologies to mods, didn't realize the image was so big.
 
I notice that the Amazon price has jumped up a fair whack :(

Cant even reorder the correct one haha, Paid £125, they now want 180 to replace it :/

Thgouth they'd just exchange it tbh, they sent me the water and heating one, I only needed heating :(
Only option Ive been given is return it for full refund :(
 
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~Divine~Wind~ said:
I notice that the Amazon price has jumped up a fair whack :(

Cant even reorder the correct one haha, Paid £125, they now want 180 to replace it :/

Thgouth they'd just exchange it tbh, they sent me the water and heating one, I only needed heating :(
Only option Ive been given is return it for full refund :(
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That's not on. Send me your details. I have a single channel heating receiver you can have if your interested. I'm a BG technician. Will post it out to you.
 
Jon20 said:
Great, thanks :) Can I just link the live and switched live with a terminal block at the room stat end? Would make it a bit easier to change back if there was ever a need.

Apologies to mods, didn't realize the image was so big.
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You can do this, but I advise bridging at the wiring centre end and disconnecting the cables to the 'stat.

You can leave them in the wall and label them up if you ever want to go back.
 
Hi, just.moved in and we've got a Combi boiler in the loft which I think is a Baxi, can't remember the exact model but can get it if needed. Room stat is a Siemens RDJ10RF which I think is wireless. What would be involved in installing a Hive 2 if I were to buy it and install it myself? Thanks.
 
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I have the above connected to a communal heating water supply and water tank.

The above is also connected to thermostat controls in each room for underfloor heating.

Does anyone know if Hive/Nest can replace the main unit and hopefully also work with the room specific thermostats?
 
Matt-Page said:
Hi, just.moved in and we've got a Combi boiler in the loft which I think is a Baxi, can't remember the exact model but can get it if needed. Room stat is a Siemens RDJ10RF which I think is wireless. What would be involved in installing a Hive 2 if I were to buy it and install it myself? Thanks.
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The receiver you have should have 4 terminals wired up:
L - permanent live
N - neutral
LX - live for boiler
L1 - switched live for boiler

You need to check whether LX is connected to mains (i.e. your boiler uses 230V signalling) or to a 24V supply (this would usually come from the boiler itself).

If it's all 230V you're golden, either the single or dual channel receivers will be fine (SLR1 or SLR2).

If it's 24V or other low voltage signalling, you MUST use the SLR1 (single channel) Hive backplate.

I can tell you how to wire it up once you determine the above.
 
GeForce said:
You can do this, but I advise bridging at the wiring centre end and disconnecting the cables to the 'stat.

You can leave them in the wall and label them up if you ever want to go back.
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Thanks for your help GeForce. Got it installed yesterday, was nice and easy. Seems to be working well.
 
challengedavid said:
is it worth getting the dual channel one for future proofing?
i need the combi version one, but probably only at current house for the next few months?

can the dual channel one be wired for a combi boiler?

thanks
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This is fine providing your combi uses or supports 230V signalling for demand for heat. If it only supports low voltage signalling you must use the single channel receiver.
 
GeForce said:
This is fine providing your combi uses or supports 230V signalling for demand for heat. If it only supports low voltage signalling you must use the single channel receiver.
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It is possible to get round this, if need by by putting a relay in, but you won't find it in the Nest instructions
 
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