Home brewing kits ....

Nice kit mate!

How long do you think youll safe to keep homebrew for? i found about 15 bottles of various brews which i hid in a box out of sunlight and forgot about at the weekend, i would say they were brewed July 2012ish.

Wondering if they'll still be good
 
Nice kit mate!

How long do you think youll safe to keep homebrew for? i found about 15 bottles of various brews which i hid in a box out of sunlight and forgot about at the weekend, i would say they were brewed July 2012ish.

Wondering if they'll still be good

I found one that was about two years old.. seriously overly hopped with american oak during the brewing. The rest were thrown out after a couple of months because it tasted rank (way too much hops, and all you could taste was wood).
After two years ageing.. that bottle was the best beer I've brewed and tasted..

Looking at the BeerAlchemy files.. I think it was this:
The Scottish Brew that cannot be named!
Selected Style and BJCP Guidelines
0- No Style Chosen

Minimum OG: 0.0 Plato Maximum OG: 0.0 Plato
Minimum FG: 0.0 Plato Maximum FG: 0.0 Plato
Minimum IBU: 0 IBU Maximum IBU: 0 IBU
Minimum Color: 0.0 SRM Maximum Color: 0.0 SRM


Recipe Overview
Wort Volume Before Boil: 27.00 l Wort Volume After Boil: 23.00 l
Volume Transferred: 20.00 l Water Added To Fermenter: 0.00 l
Volume At Pitching: 20.00 l Volume Of Finished Beer: 19.00 l
Expected Pre-Boil Gravity: 14.2 Plato Expected OG: 16.6 Plato
Expected FG: 4.8 Plato Apparent Attenuation: 71.0 %
Expected ABV: 6.5 % Expected ABW: 5.1 %
Expected IBU (using Tinseth): 24.2 IBU Expected Color (using Morey): 8.5 SRM
BU:GU ratio: 0.36 Approx Color:
Mash Efficiency: 75.0 %
Boil Duration: 90.0 mins
Fermentation Temperature: 18 degC


Fermentables
Ingredient Amount % MCU When
UK Golden Promise 5.890 kg 87.0 % 8.5 In Mash/Steeped
UK Amber Malt 0.514 kg 7.6 % 3.7 In Mash/Steeped
German Caramel Pils 0.368 kg 5.4 % 0.3 In Mash/Steeped


Hops
Variety Alpha Amount IBU Form When
US Mount Hood 4.8 % 35 g 16.8 Loose Whole Hops 90 Min From End
US Mount Hood 4.8 % 15 g 5.2 Loose Whole Hops 30 Min From End
US Mount Hood 4.8 % 10 g 2.2 Loose Whole Hops 15 Min From End


Other Ingredients
Ingredient Amount When
Irish Moss 4 g In Boil
Jim Beam Bourbon 200 g In Dispense Vessel
American White Oak (cubes) 20 g In Dispense Vessel

Yeast
Wyeast 1728-Scottish Ale

Water Profile
Target Profile: Edinburgh (UK)
Mash pH: 5.2
pH Adjusted with: Unadjusted

Total Calcium (ppm): 27 Total Magnesium (ppm): 7
Total Sodium (ppm): 7 Total Sulfate (ppm): 11
Total Chloride(ppm): 6 Total Bicarbonate (ppm): 103

Mash Schedule
Mash Type: Full Mash
Schedule Name: Double Decoction (35-50-65C/95-122-149F) w/Mash Out

Step Type Temperature Duration
Rest at 35 degC 20
Pull decoction, boil, add back raising mash to 50 degC 45
Rest at 50 degC 20
Pull decoction, boil, add back raising mash to 65 degC 30
Rest at 65 degC 30
Raise by infusion to 74 degC 10

But it could have been this one too:
Wood Oaked Scottish Red Ale
Selected Style and BJCP Guidelines
9D-Scottish And Irish Ale-Irish Red Ale

Minimum OG: 11.0 Plato Maximum OG: 14.7 Plato
Minimum FG: 2.6 Plato Maximum FG: 3.6 Plato
Minimum IBU: 17 IBU Maximum IBU: 28 IBU
Minimum Color: 9.0 SRM Maximum Color: 18.0 SRM


Recipe Overview
Wort Volume Before Boil: 25.00 l Wort Volume After Boil: 22.50 l
Volume Transferred: 22.50 l Water Added To Fermenter: 0.00 l
Volume At Pitching: 22.00 l Volume Of Finished Beer: 22.00 l
Expected Pre-Boil Gravity: 9.4 Plato Expected OG: 10.5 Plato
Expected FG: 3.0 Plato Apparent Attenuation: 70.9 %
Expected ABV: 4.0 % Expected ABW: 3.1 %
Expected IBU (using Tinseth): 23.8 IBU Expected Color (using Morey): 7.7 SRM
BU:GU ratio: 0.57 Approx Color:
Mash Efficiency: 75.0 %
Boil Duration: 90.0 mins
Fermentation Temperature: 18 degC


Fermentables
Ingredient Amount % MCU When
UK Golden Promise 3.000 kg 73.2 % 4.5 In Mash/Steeped
UK Pale Ale Malt 0.600 kg 14.6 % 0.7 In Mash/Steeped
UK Light Crystal 0.300 kg 7.3 % 4.7 In Mash/Steeped
UK Caramalt 0.200 kg 4.9 % 1.0 In Mash/Steeped


Hops
Variety Alpha Amount IBU Form When
UK Phoenix 8.1 % 14 g 13.1 Loose Whole Hops 60 Min From End
UK Golding 5.1 % 14 g 6.4 Loose Whole Hops 30 Min From End
UK Golding 5.1 % 15 g 4.3 Loose Whole Hops 15 Min From End


Other Ingredients
Ingredient Amount When


Yeast
Wyeast 1728-Scottish Ale


Water Profile
Target Profile: No Water Profile Chosen
Mash pH: 5.2
pH Adjusted with: Unadjusted

Total Calcium (ppm): 27 Total Magnesium (ppm): 7
Total Sodium (ppm): 7 Total Sulfate (ppm): 11
Total Chloride(ppm): 6 Total Bicarbonate (ppm): 103


Mash Schedule
Mash Type: Full Mash
Schedule Name: No Chosen Schedule

Step Type Temperature Duration

IIRC it had additional Bere grain that I got from Bruichladdich themselves.. very different type of grain as it's genus is over 1000 years old. More chaff and much smaller amount of starch/sugars.. as that's not commercially available.. I'm not going to see another bottle of it..

For those wondering .. Innes & Gunn.. American Oak cubes+Jim Beam.. Don't use French Oak, as that works for wine not for beer.
 
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Does anyone batch-prime but then bottle direct from their primary fermentation vessel? Is it feasible to gently mix the sugar solution in to the beer without kicking up too much sediment? I realise sediment in the bottle isn't the end of the world if you are careful when pouring in to a glass but I'd like to avoid as much as possible.
 
Does anyone batch-prime but then bottle direct from their primary fermentation vessel? Is it feasible to gently mix the sugar solution in to the beer without kicking up too much sediment? I realise sediment in the bottle isn't the end of the world if you are careful when pouring in to a glass but I'd like to avoid as much as possible.

We batch prime but I don't think it's really that feasible to mix the sugar thoroughly without stirring up sediment (we transfer the beer to a secondary before we prime).
 
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My Brewmaker old english ale after 5-6 weeks in the bottle. This glass makes the head overflow like that. It is carbed perfectly for the type of beer, so think i'll be using the syringe method to prime again. Tastes really nice, i'd put it on par with the Wherry.

Think my next purchase will be a hydrometer as I'd love to know the alcohol content of my beers. I'd say this was around 4.5-5%.
 
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I only use the hydrometer to check my brew has finished, couldn't care less about working out the strength. Going to bottle my Woodfordes Sundew tomorrow. I have about 200 bottles now conditioning and I have a wherry to put on at some point.

All I have left if a Canadian blonde which is frankly dreadful, but I can face throwing it out so I'm drinking it with a couple of slices of lime in the glass :D
 
Just got my first kit bubbling away at the weekend. Bit worried about the sanitising part, and whether I cleaned it all enough or may have contaminated it. Any easy way to tell? Is it more the smell/taste being off as the main indicator?

Regardless its bubbling like mad, the temperature is higher than I'd like ~24C but I have nowhere else cooler to put it! I guess sunlight at this point doesn't matter, but its left in the storage area in pitch blackness. Fingers crossed it turn out OK!

Last note, the 'hydrometer' I got is marked as an alcoholmeter. It only has percentage markings from 0-100%. In water it floats at 0% but with the wort it was like -20 i.e off the scale below 0. Is this odd?
 
I only use the hydrometer to check my brew has finished, couldn't care less about working out the strength. Going to bottle my Woodfordes Sundew tomorrow. I have about 200 bottles now conditioning and I have a wherry to put on at some point.

All I have left if a Canadian blonde which is frankly dreadful, but I can face throwing it out so I'm drinking it with a couple of slices of lime in the glass :D

This.. basically you have already defined the potential alcohol content before the yeast has got to it. Then it's just a case of measuring at the start and watching the sugar level drop.

It's a long time since I did this but it's something like 1008 to 1005 is when it's safe to bottle (priming the bottle for some controlled fizz.. bottling early and leaving it uncontrolled in a bottle is asking for random detonations of beer!
 
I assumed too early would be worse than late.

Correct, leaving it in the fermenter in most cases will improve your beer and it will come in to condition quicker.

Ignore the instructions and use a hydrometer. Check it after 10 days then a few days later if the reading is the same then give it a few days as the yeast needs time to clean up the bi-products of fermentation this can be problematic in the bottle. Leaving 5-7 days after reaching final gravity or just leaving it for 3 weeks in the fermentation vessel without interfering with it is not a bad idea.
 
14lbs of honey ordered. Got 4 1gallon glass demijhons. So can start experimenting with short/show mead recipes.

Short mead: Also called "quick mead". A type of mead recipe that is meant to age quickly, for immediate consumption. Because of the techniques used in its creation, short mead shares some qualities found in cider (or even light ale): primarily that it is effervescent, and often has a cidery taste. It can also be champagne-like.

Show mead: A term which has come to mean "plain" mead: that which has honey and water as a base, with no fruits, spices or extra flavorings. Since honey alone often does not provide enough nourishment for the yeast to carry on its life cycle, a mead that is devoid of fruit, etc. will sometimes require a special yeast nutrient and other enzymes to produce an acceptable finished product. In most competitions, including all those that subscribe to the BJCP style guidelines, as well as the International Mead Fest, the term "traditional mead" refers to this variety (because mead is historically a variable product, these guidelines are a recent expedient, designed to provide a common language for competition judging; style guidelines per se do not apply to commercial or historical examples of this or any other type of me

Ideally what I want (or at least what I imagine I want) is a medium, 6-8% sparkling. Easy drinking when chillied. To go with BBQ etc.
The simplest one I've found for sparkling, is before bottling stir in an extra 2/3 of a cup of honey per 5 gallon. Should give enough to sparkle without blowing the bottle.
 
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Mead is in and bubbling away nicely, gone for two different moneys, annoyingly they were out of most so got a Spanish orange blossom and a undisclosed clear blossom.

Just straight mead, 4 different strengths,



Spanish one at 900g and 1300g per gallon
And the clear at 600 and 1700g per gallon.

First time so went for scatter gin approach, and hopefully from their in future batches can narrow it down, to my preference and experiment with other aspects of it.

I also broke my hydrometer, so that doesn't help things.
 
Oh, brilliant, this is really intersting. What yeast are you using for the mead? And how long are you fermenting them for? Is it just honey and water and yeast, or have you used some yeast nutrients too?
 
You need nutrients as well.
It's Champaign yeast.

Ferment till it stops, the stronger one could be 4 weeks. Then I'm wanting a sparkling mead. So add a further 2/3rds of a cup of honey per 5 gallons. Stronger one may very well not ferment a second time due to strength killing yeast. But as I say shot gun approach to try and learn something for next batch. Ideally you want to be far more selective on yeast. And pick yet that matches what you want. so if you want a sweet mead, you need to have a yeast that can't handle high alcohol and stops fermenting when theirs sugars still left to digest. Again I didn't go this in-depth to begin with, just generic Champaign yeast from brewery shop. White labs are very good and provide lots of info with their yeasts.

The other thing I didn't have was a ph enter, but it seems to be happily fermenting away, which seems to be thru main reason for checking it.

I got honey from http://www.paynesbeefarm.co.uk/honey-in-bulk/
 
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I'm just starting the home brew journey. Bought the young's starter kit with the Woodfordes Wherry. Barrel conditioned and it's got better and better since barrel day +5!

Now that's running out I've got the Brupaks Belgium Tripel just started primary. Only 10l and long maturing so that's going to be bottled and left until October hopefully.

After the primary bucket is freed up I'll likely do another Wherry but dry hop to see the impact.

Fun!
 
Sounds good. I've just started drinking the Evil Eye Double IPA kit i mentioned above. It tastes very good but not quite how i would've expected it to.

Its a lot lighter and fruitier than i'd expect a double IPA to be so not sure if i've made a mess of it at some stage but given its summer its actually a perfect drink for a warm summers day!
 
Okay I am blaming all you lot for the potential damage to my wallet and liver...
After reading this, the all grain thread and some of the home brew forums it has persuaded me to grab a couple of the premium kits and see how they turn out, if they are good the missus has promised me a BrauMeister when my birthday comes around in a few months, so I can go all grain with minimum hassle.
Has anyone tried any of the Bock kits and do they use lager yeasts? I love Bock beer and thought I might try one alongside a couple of ales but don't want to have to lager it.
 
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I'm just starting the home brew journey. Bought the young's starter kit with the Woodfordes Wherry. Barrel conditioned and it's got better and better since barrel day +5!

Now that's running out I've got the Brupaks Belgium Tripel just started primary. Only 10l and long maturing so that's going to be bottled and left until October hopefully.

After the primary bucket is freed up I'll likely do another Wherry but dry hop to see the impact.

Fun!

I can't remember the keg timing .. but from memory it needs a month or three..
 
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