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How much AS 5 on E6600?

daddyorchips said:
Jimbo,

Did you clip the 40mm Akasa Blue fans directly on top of the heatsinks that come pre-installed on the motherboard?

Cheers :cool:
He followed my example, they screw straight on, or you can use a glue gun if you don't want to scratch them. i.e.you may want to RMA it at some point.

 
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Jleo said:
LOL :)



I can definitely understand your apprehension, but this amount works and works extremely well, try it you will not be disappointed, by the way I wouldn't try to spread the As5, I just put the the heatsink down on it give a firm press and then turn the whole heatsink left then right and back to starting point, pop the clips into place job done :)
Seems there are two types of IHS circulating on C2D's, sharp edged and beveled. It's looking like the beveled edge IHS can be very concave. Either way if a IHS is concave and you use the small grain method, you will more than likely end up with no TIM contact at all. Always check with a straight edge before mounting the HSF, especially if you plan on using the above method.
 
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daddyorchips said:
Jimbo,

Did you clip the 40mm Akasa Blue fans directly on top of the heatsinks that come pre-installed on the motherboard?

Cheers :cool:

Yeah just screw em on with the screws that come with the fans. ;)
 
Took (more like ripped) those covers over today and instantly the temperatures lowered by 3-4 degrees (42/43 from 46). What a difference. The northbridge heatsink is still hot to the touch. I've placed an order for a couple of those akasa fans, hopefully should arrive by the weekend. Fingers crossed they're not too noisy - little fans can be notorious for whining.
 
i use a 40mm fan on my nb but don;t you think it would be better to place the fans on top of some small screws so oyu have a raise area above the nb so you don;t have a dead zone in the middle..

i mean when you screw it down tight, isn't the fan very close to or touching the nb, wouldn;t that make the center of your nb no very effectively cooled?

i leave about 1-2cm of space between the nb adn fan where i think it works better
what do you think?
 
I don't think it will make any real difference, unless you duct the air (excluding losses), moving it away lowers the pressure and therefore the air velocity. All the air moving through the fins is turbulent flow and plenty of air gets to the center. Mount it on the top.
 
40mm fans are not an option for me they are too noisey, want to watercool the northbridge of the P5W DH but can't find anything for the mosfets :(.
 
The vregs don't get very hot from what I've seen. The 8 under the heatsink are in 4 close pairs, I would think 4 larger ram heatsinks would fit, no need for WC I'd say. The 40mm Akasa AK-210 is only 20db btw. There are some nice passive heatpiped northbridge coolers around? As you've probably seen, there are no holes in the P5W pcb to fix WC blocks by the NB, only hook loops. Have you a block that fits?
 
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Well I have the asetek full dual rad kit and you could use cable ties for the north bridge but that solution isn't ideal. I know I don't need to watercool the mosfet but not sure what coolers to use the vantec vga memory ramsinks that overclockers used to have on their site do you reckon they would fit?

I could always buy another nb block if you can suggest one that is more compatible with the loop method.

Apparently the Alphacool Asus A8N Series & A8V-E Motherboard Mosfet Cooler (WC-011-AC) works for the mosfets but they are out at the moment.
 
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nick_000000 said:
Well I have the asetek full dual rad kit and you could use cable ties for the north bridge but that solution isn't ideal. I know I don't need to watercool the mosfet but not sure what coolers to use the vantec vga memory ramsinks that overclockers used to have on their site do you reckon they would fit?

I could always buy another nb block if you can suggest one that is more compatible with the loop method.
Look at these, mosfet coolers are around, can't give you a direct link, but they're about a £1 each.



Its a small core on the MCH, it's got to be pull down tight and level. Cable ties would be iffy. I don't think it gets hot enough for WC, a nice passive with a bit of air over it would do imo. I've seen these in my travels, Thermalright HR-05 & CM Blue Ice. If you look at the Coolermaster they have a hook/loop system. Same on their NB block, "NB-AQUA"



 
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Yeah I have even seen a tuniq on that northbridge I wouldn't want to risk that would probably end up ripping the hoops out or crushing the poor little nb. I could use some sort of padding under easch out the sides of the block to make sure it stays level and doesn't crush th chip done it b4 for my p4c800-e dlx worked fine with that. I might just leave it for the moment though, I am still waiting for my asetek pump to be sent to me because mine died :(.
 
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fornowagain said:
Seems there are two types of IHS circulating on C2D's, sharp edged and beveled. It's looking like the beveled edge IHS can be very concave. Either way if a IHS is concave and you use the small grain method, you will more than likely end up with no TIM contact at all. Always check with a straight edge before mounting the HSF, especially if you plan on using the above method.


I can confirm this with an OEM E6700


I was getting what i thought were pretty high temps under water.

40 idle and 60 load

I checked the contact of AS5 and it was literatly on the outside edges of the heatspreader.

Having just lapped the heatspreader (almost down to copper) it has reduced temps to 27idle 43load

Concave and bevelled edge fyi
 
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Jimbo said:
Can you post a guide or pics how to do this?


Not sure if your referring to my post,

All i did was get some very fine Wet And Dry sandpaper.

Placed the paper face up on a Worktop with a light sprinkle of water, and held the CPU heatspreader down onto the paper and just kept rubbing gently in a circular motion untill the h/s was flat.

Its pretty daft having to do that to a new CPU but i had no choice really as it was too concave to make any decent contact with the Water Block.

Just take your time and keep checking across the surface with a flat object like a stanley knife blade or anything flat.
 
Coolasmoo said:
Not sure if your referring to my post,

All i did was get some very fine Wet And Dry sandpaper.

Placed the paper face up on a Worktop with a light sprinkle of water, and held the CPU heatspreader down onto the paper and just kept rubbing gently in a circular motion untill the h/s was flat.

Its pretty daft having to do that to a new CPU but i had no choice really as it was too concave to make any decent contact with the Water Block.

Just take your time and keep checking across the surface with a flat object like a stanley knife blade or anything flat.

Yeah sorry I was reffering to your post and thanks for the tips. Cant understand what intel where thinking about here?
 
Coolasmoo said:
I can confirm this with an OEM E6700

Having just lapped the heatspreader (almost down to copper) it has reduced temps to 27idle 43load
Gutsy move, knocking the resale value on a E6700. I'd think twice with a E6600, luckily my temps are similar to yours lapped. Imagine having to do that with an X6800 :eek:
 
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fornowagain said:
Gutsy move, knocking the resale value on a E6700. I'd think twice with a E6600, luckily my temps are the similar to yours lapped. Imagine having to do that with an X6800 :eek:


I should have mentioned that they are not stock temps , but its true what you say.

I usually pass down my CPU's to other machines in the house and eventually give them away when they become near to obsolete so its not too much of a problem for myself, but i can see it being a problem for others.
 
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