How to optimise your combi boiler
- Thread starter dirtychinchilla
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Jul 2005
- Posts
- 9,083
- Location
- Birmingham
Ok thanks, that seems to contradict what Ive been reading or watching on youtube. Eg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbcVKU1QxJ4 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzKG44TsoLM
I'll have to re-watch in case I misunderstood.
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Jan 2003
- Posts
- 3,093
- Location
- Derbyshire
You need to Google 'Boiler plus', that will tell you that installers have been fitting energy efficient controls and boilers to new installations since 2018. And boiler/control manufacturers have also complied.
Also, if you're concerned about how efficient your boiler is running, then you should concentrate on the temperature difference between flow and return. That will be when your boiler will condense the most, and most boilers will monitor flow and return temps and adjust its energy output accordingly to maintain condensing as long as possible.
Also, if you're concerned about how efficient your boiler is running, then you should concentrate on the temperature difference between flow and return. That will be when your boiler will condense the most, and most boilers will monitor flow and return temps and adjust its energy output accordingly to maintain condensing as long as possible.
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Jul 2005
- Posts
- 9,083
- Location
- Birmingham
In that case why are systems such as Tado still not supplying digital connection units into the UK market? Having to faff about trying to source an EU product or for other manufacturers an OpenTherm compatible interface of some kind.
What is the most efficient method out of these:
a) keeping your boiler heating temperature dial on 1, until its too cold for 1, then upping it to 2, then when its too cold for 2, upping it to 3 etc etc. And controlling the whole thing with an on/off thermostat (whether smart or not).
b) letting a smart device control the flow temperature via digital bus connection either OpenTherm or equivalent.
c) fitting an OEM externally mounted weather compensation sensor hardwired into the boiler terminals, and using an on/off thermostat (whether smart or not).
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Jan 2003
- Posts
- 3,093
- Location
- Derbyshire
(b) which would also integrate internet weather data like (c).
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Jul 2005
- Posts
- 9,083
- Location
- Birmingham
Ok, cool. In that case I will press ahead with sourcing the EU version of the Tado device for my system.
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Jan 2003
- Posts
- 3,093
- Location
- Derbyshire
What system to you have? Make model variant etc
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Jul 2005
- Posts
- 9,083
- Location
- Birmingham
I have my own thread with all the details, which I'll update when I do the install. Its a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 25Si mk4 with WB's proprietary EMS protocol.
Improving my heating controls - going smart - advice welcomed
Hi all, I currently have a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 25Si combi boiler located in the kitchen with a wireless Drayton Digistat thermostat wall mounted in the hallway. All rads except the bathroom towel rail have a Danfoss TRV. The boiler with its rotary manual timer: The Drayton thermostat...
forums.overclockers.co.uk
Last edited:
Evohome is still doing it's thing really well.
Few mornings now the rooms have gone below the set temp but weather optimisation steps in and turns it off. I imagine it won't be long though before it's coming on. Couple more degrees drop in day time temps.
Few mornings now the rooms have gone below the set temp but weather optimisation steps in and turns it off. I imagine it won't be long though before it's coming on. Couple more degrees drop in day time temps.
Last edited:
I haven't watched those videos but, if a boiler condenses it's RETURN water and this happens at a specific temp (let's say 50oC for this example) then, as long as the return temp is lower than 50oC, the condensing will occur.
Sure you can run your supply temp at 50oC and it may save a little money whilst talking longer for your room to heat up but that doesn't negate the point that it's the return water temp that is important for condensing, not the supply water temp.
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Jul 2005
- Posts
- 9,083
- Location
- Birmingham
Thanks, yeah that clarification is really helpful because I was concerned that a smart stat like Tado would be running the flow temperature higher than 55 a lot of the time. But now I realise that is fine as long as the heat demand is there to drop the return temp sufficiently.
10% gas saving !
folks recently replaced theirs with a combi , yes it's got a 8 year guarantee I think but it will take as many years to break even;
combi I have in current place has had one significant call out in last 6 years, folks had no problems for 20+ years; combis are like modern cars ?
threads where people claiming 50% gas/oil reduction is a pipe dream.
UK offers for cavity wall/loft insulation /boilers - father wanted to know if it was worth while updating a 20 year old boiler -
turns out the government cost cutting figures are optimistic versus reality
Research published by DECC last month showed that home insulation measures deliver half the savings that are claimed. A study of homeowners installing a package of cavity and loft insulation and a new boiler in 2010 indicated a 19% reduction in energy use, and a likely saving of about £140 at current gas prices.Actual energy savings from efficiency measures only half what is officially claimed | Carbon Commentary
( This article provided some of the data for the Guardian's article on energy efficiency on 18.01.14. I have put it at the top of this web site in order to make it easy to find. Chris Goodall) Research published by DECC last month showed that home insulation measures deliver half twww.carboncommentary.com
(gas prices increased since then but the percentages remain the same)
Household Energy Efficiency detailed release: Great Britain Data to December 2020 18 March 2021
Soldato
- Joined
- 2 Feb 2010
- Posts
- 11,114
- Location
- Crowmarsh
Still haven't had my heating come on as I have had the thermostat set to 17c
Really don't want a 3k energy bill.
Problem is with 65c is that it won't put the boiler in condenser mode, which is where the real economy is.
.10 years old is not that old in the scheme of things. I doubt you'll see many, if any savings.
What would bring you bigger savings is getting it fixed, serviced and working correctly.
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 May 2010
- Posts
- 12,827
Still haven't had my heating come on as I have had the thermostat set to 17c
Really don't want a 3k energy bill.
Problem is with 65c is that it won't put the boiler in condenser mode, which is where the real economy is.
Fair enough, my Mrs won't have that unfortunately and I CBA arguing with her about it
65c is the output temp though, not the return temp
Any lower than that and my rad in the hall won't heat up and therefore the thermostat rises very slowly and the boiler is running for a lot longer, 65c it heats up fine and the boiler shuts off quicker. Much better than the 75c it was set at as default
Sounds like a radiator/flow issue rather than a boiler problem. Do you have a blockage? Do you have the valves all the way open on that rad?
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 May 2010
- Posts
- 12,827
Definitely not, system is four years old and the water and inhibitor was replaced this year. Rads are balanced. The issue is 55c isn't hot enough, the flow is fine
Last edited:
That doesn't sound right at all. How can 55c water not be enough to heat the rad? Either the valves aren't set up correctly or there is some form of other restriction in the system. Do you have a thermostatic valve on that radiator? If so, what's it set to?
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 May 2010
- Posts
- 12,827
It's the last rad in the loop, 65c works fine like I already said