How to wire up garage RCD

Traffic_Warden said:
I will look up this busbar lark...but i find c2 for that a bit harsh...but i'll do some research
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It'd depend on a number of factors in my book...

i) Is the clip in blank secure and unlikely to pop out
ii) Is the board at risk of interference by children, etc i.e. low level, etc
iii) How much is exposed with the cover off.. on those wylex boards, not a lot

I could justify a C1, C2, or C3 depending on such things :cool: No one size fits all

I prefer to use the DIN rail mounted blanks, much better.
 
Adam_151 said:
It'd depend on a number of factors in my book...

i) Is the clip in blank secure and unlikely to pop out
ii) Is the board at risk of interference by children, etc i.e. low level, etc
iii) How much is exposed with the cover off.. on those wylex boards, not a lot

I could justify a C1, C2, or C3 depending on such things :cool: No one size fits all

I prefer to use the DIN rail mounted blanks, much better.
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Yes, all of them factors are taken into account on a normal job, I am talking about this one specifically, being graded a c2 is not something I would do under these circumstances.

If you look at the C/U on the other thread the OP posted, you can see it's nearly touching the ceiling, not within distance of kids to touch, or infact anyone to touch (depeding on how high a ceiling)! may even need steps to reach it.

I've worked with a lot of them c/u's, the busbar is really low and once the covers on it'll be impossible to touch the busbar without intentionally putting your finger in the cover's blank space (which would mean the blank has been popped out or came off)

I agree, the din rail blanks are a lot better, which cover both bases :)
 
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Traffic_Warden said:
If you look at the C/U on the other thread the OP posted, you can see it's nearly touching the ceiling, not within distance of kids to touch, or infact anyone to touch (depeding on how high a ceiling)! may even need steps to reach it.
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C3, accessibility of switchgear

:p

Seriously though if you don't put it on the cert and do not cover it by a suitable limitation (don't see how you could limit opening the DB though) then your leaving yourself liable to comebacks.



OP - as for him not taking the time to show you I agree. I'd be very reluctant on showing anyone how to do anything aside from very basic things. Your not just paying for the job to be done, your paying from the years of experience to get around all the issues that crop up whilst doing the job, the knowledge of any wiring and building regs etc etc.
 
Lisapete said:
I have someone that can sign it all off once he has checked it. He is not willing too take time to do it or show me how.
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That is a little far fetched isn't it.
You claim you have someone who is not willing to tell you how to do it properly but is willing to falsify a document stating that he was there at 1st & 2nd fix and has tested the installation?
That's impossible as he can not test it in the state it's in due to the use of 2x 30ma RCD's for one.
Even if some monkey is willing to give you a hookey certificate and notify it to his scheme provider he can't unless he wants to falsify more documents claiming that he designed and erected it, once an electrician sees it (if they ever do) he'll make you do it properly if he wants anything to do with.
Plus, as no-one can test it how are you ever going to know it's safe?
Good luck.
 
JohnnyG said:
That's impossible as he can not test it in the state it's in due to the use of 2x 30ma RCD's for one.
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Its poor design for sure, though its perfectly possible to get the trip times for the downstream RCD without affecting the upstream RCD, its left as an excercise for the reader to figure out how though ;)
 
You can discriminate between the 2 RCDs. But yeh OP just save the hassle and get someone local who knows what to do to have a look. Trying to do it over the forum is silly.

Its easy and in many ways it would probably be ok. But for safety and best practice just get someone competant to take a look. People get paid for a reason.
 
Prysmian LV Armoured 6493X 3-Core Cable 4mm² x 10m Black -http://www.screwfix.com/p/prysmian-lv-armoured-6493x-3-core-cable-4mm-x-10m-black/94686

Tower SWA Cable Cleats CC6 (15mm) Pack of 25 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-swa-cable-cleats-cc6-15mm-pack-of-25/45541

Tower External Gland Kit 20S IP66 Pack of 2 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-external-gland-kit-20s-ip66-pack-of-2/25996

Wylex 32A SP Type B MCB 6kA - http://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-32a-sp-type-b-mcb-6ka-domestic-circuit-protection/55617

Have spoken with the boss and she's happy for the cable to be done.

I aperchate people get paid to do this job but to over charge because I live in the most expensive part of town doesn't mean I have money to burn.
 
Have a word with your friend? Tell him you will run everything in, but would like him gland off, connect and test? That won't cost much surely? They are the important bits. Will only take him 30min-1hr. No material mark up etc.
 
ZG002 said:
Have a word with your friend? Tell him you will run everything in, but would like him gland off, connect and test? That won't cost much surely? They are the important bits. Will only take him 30min-1hr. No material mark up etc.
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He doesn't want to do it, have already asked
 
Quotes have been £850 - £2000

That's with all the sockets fitted, cables dropped and ran back to garage consumer, consumer mounted and all fittings and cables present.
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Perhaps the quotes he is getting are of the type intended to loose a job... if presented with an outbuilding with all final circuits installed and second fixed by a DIY who is expecting the chap to fasify paperwork and say he did it...

As the OPs mate doesn't want to do it, then its no supprise that a random electrical contractor doen't want to
 
Adam_151 said:
Perhaps the quotes he is getting are of the type intended to loose a job... if presented with an outbuilding with all final circuits installed and second fixed by a DIY who is expecting the chap to fasify paperwork and say he did it...

As the OPs mate doesn't want to do it, then its no supprise that a random electrical contractor doen't want to
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My mate doesn't want to do it as he's doesn't have the time to spare. He'll only be able to come and test it that's it. His wife has him on a silly short leach.

Quotes had been for both no install present and install present.

The price I had for downlights, 10 in my front room was a full joke.

Items supplied by me:
LED bulbs
Downlight
Cable
Chockblocks

Work done:
Locations marked out
LED bulbs fitted to dowlights
Holes for lights drilled

So run of cable from old ceeling rose, drop down holes and daisy chain, fit chock blocks to length of cable off light. Check, test sign off....

3 hours work max? What you think the price quoted had been?
 
Probably a lot, because even if it's just a few hours it still has to be fitted in around other potentially more profitable work. Sometimes trying to fit in a 3 hour job can be more hassle than it's worth, especially for anyone half decent with plenty on.
 
These threads always make me laugh, I'm surprised there's been no "Home and Garden" related fatalities over the years.

That CU is an abomination, that'd be a contract loser for me, seriously. What is wrong with people?!


*EDIT*

Just noticed the mix and match Wylex MCB's too. Smooth.
 
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Home and Garden is fairly new, all this stuff used to be in GD, you should have seen the advice!

Said many times that electrical threads shouldn't be allowed. The problem being, this is a custom pc building forum at heart. The users just don't find any type of electrical work beyond them, they wouldn't dream about touching gas though lol.
 
Won't touch gas. It's far too risky.

Electrical it'll either work or not. Respect it and it'll respect you. Know the basics and anything more ask. Your an idiot if you don't ask.
 
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