HP LP2475w, IPS 24" Official Thread! (Now Available from OcUK)

I'll go with the Pantone Pro, but only if I'm dissatisfied after a week of cheap-skate manual OSD fiddling. It seems like a reasonable price, TFTCentral attested to the LP2575w's impressive calibration results, and I'm covered by the warranty if it all goes to pot. It's a great backup plan.

Has anyone here managed without, though?
 
I'll go with the Pantone Pro, but only if I'm dissatisfied after a week of cheap-skate manual OSD fiddling. It seems like a reasonable price, TFTCentral attested to the LP2575w's impressive calibration results, and I'm covered by the warranty if it all goes to pot. It's a great backup plan.

Has anyone here managed without, though?

Yes, I'm still mulling whether to get one and have instead been using the profile and OSD settings I posted back on page 9 or 10 I believe.
 
I'll go with the Pantone Pro, but only if I'm dissatisfied after a week of cheap-skate manual OSD fiddling. It seems like a reasonable price, TFTCentral attested to the LP2575w's impressive calibration results, and I'm covered by the warranty if it all goes to pot. It's a great backup plan.

Has anyone here managed without, though?

Yep, got my HP from OcUK about 3-4 weeks ago now. Brightness dropped to 15 and RGB Black Level for Red to 30 and it's been perfect.

Can't understand why so many people are wasting cash on calibration devices, TBH. I sit in front of this screen all day (earn my living in IT) and even I can't find reason to justify any further outlay. I guess for those doing 'colour critical work' as a professional it's worth it, but for the rest of us, well...

Cue flames! :)

Cheers,

Nomadd
 
Was curious if the HP Display Assistant now support ATi HD48xx cards ?

Yes it does support it, I was using the HP Display Assistant on mine, but in the end uninstalled it and just used the OSD, I think I might buy a Calibrator for the monitor as I think it will be a good investment as I also have a 24" Aluminium iMac too that I can use it on.

I have to say I am VERY happy with this monitor, the blacks are great and the colours are amazing, I have totally got used to the wide gamut now, I think I am going to keep this monitor for a long time!!

Does anyone know what the best calibrator would be < £100??
 
Just for reference: did you calibrate yours at all? I cant afford a high-end monitor and a colorimeter. Did you manage without?

Nah, didn't calibrate it at all, just adjusted the settings in the OSD until it looked about right. The colours look pretty natural to me without the need for a hw calibrator. Brightness and Contrast also seem fine, black looks completely black (no white tinge).
 
Wonderful. If custom OSD settings are good enough for you guys, it should be fine for me. I've been living with a Samsung 226BW TN (probably C panel) for the last year, and always used that "MagicColor" mode. Even though I know it completely destroys the colour accuracy, I just like the pastel-colours and the vibrancy.

Should be here tomorrow, assuming I dont miss the postman (again).
 
Wonderful. If custom OSD settings are good enough for you guys, it should be fine for me. I've been living with a Samsung 226BW TN (probably C panel) for the last year, and always used that "MagicColor" mode. Even though I know it completely destroys the colour accuracy, I just like the pastel-colours and the vibrancy.

Should be here tomorrow, assuming I dont miss the postman (again).

Unlike the other poster who uninstalled the HPDA, I'd use that as it gives you 3 more RGB sliders (RGB black level) that aren't available on the OSD. These can really help tame down the reds and greens without unduly affecting the balance of the three colours (e.g. by creating a push into blue).
 
Maybe its been asked before, as it seems an obvious question, but with regards to the more expenisve (and maybe even cheaper) calibration devices, why doesent somone hire them out. Maybe even someone on here.


Whilst that’s a good idea it’s not really long term.

You need to calibrate regularly because monitors shift over time and GFX driver updates can also influence displayed colours etc so recalibration is needed whenever these are changed.

It would be pretty cool though if say a bunch of OCUK forum members bought a device together then took turns at sending it to each other for monthly calibration or whenever someone needed assigning it to a designated “keeper” when not I use.

I’m sure something like that could be arrange.
 
Whilst that’s a good idea it’s not really long term.

You need to calibrate regularly because monitors shift over time and GFX driver updates can also influence displayed colours etc so recalibration is needed whenever these are changed.
Backlight fade will be slow, gradual and predictable, so it really would not be worth the price difference (vs. renting) for many. Driver output isn't going to change as long as you ensure any wacky picture enhancements are turned off.

Renting a high end device as and when you need it makes far more sense than buying it, or buying a lower end device instead. I gather proper renting is actually prohibited in the EULA of some of them, though. Bit of a racket.
 
Last edited:
Nah, didn't calibrate it at all, just adjusted the settings in the OSD until it looked about right. The colours look pretty natural to me without the need for a hw calibrator. Brightness and Contrast also seem fine, black looks completely black (no white tinge).

Some hope perhaps after all :)

Maybe if its good with just abit of tweeking one can get away with it at 1st and then perhaps buy a calibrator later on :)
 
It arrived!

Wonderful monitor. All the ports have been tested, and there are no disappointments with image quality (after tweaking the colours, and using some profiles posted here). I'm using the following ports:

DVI-1: PC (1920x1200 via 9800GTX)
DVI-2: Xbox 360 (1080P)
HDMI: PS3 (1080P)
Component: Wii (480P)
S-Video: Playstation 2 (480i)
Composite: DVD Player (480i)

The analogue input scaling represents the only problem I've encountered so far. For example, with Component, you have three scaling options: 1:1, Aspect Ratio, and Fill (all pretty self-explanatory). As mentioned before in this thread, the Wii outputs 480P (as in 640x480) even in widescreen mode (16:9). However, the monitor will obviously only interpret it as a standard 4:3 signal when any of those scaling modes are used. It really needed a forced 16:9 option for this. Fortunately, playing the Wii in 4:3 aspect ratio tends to give a much cleaner image; the 16:9 ouput is only a stretched 4:3, and therefore ultimately only creates more noise (and jaggies) when it finally reaches the screen. This is a problem at the Wii's end; most other standard definition devices will use genuine anamorphic widescreen (720x480).

Ghosting is very minimal, and response time is great. I can see a very faint shadow behind the ball in Top Spin 3 (playing at 720P), but only when I really look. Thats the worst of it so far. FPS's such as Portal and Bioshock didnt give me any trouble, surprisingly. Meanwhile, I havent noticed the input lag at all, even having come from Samsung's 226BW: a 3-5ms input lag TN panel. I'm very happy with the gaming capabilities of the monitor.

As for the wide gamut: you may despise it. I personally love the richness of the colours, but I also appreciate that people may prefer more a more realistic pallette. It's like marmite, and I'd urge you to find a site which compares the image ouputs of both, and decide for yourself. You can counteract it with wide-gamut profiles, of course, but bear in mind that few programs support it, and certainly no HDMI, Component and S-Video devices will. It's also worth considering that this wide gamut format may be the future standard for all applications and operating systems; Dell are currently implementing it into all their 24"+ monitors, likely in preparation for a changeover with Windows 7. Also, similarly to Dell's monitor, a DisplayPort is featured in this model to "future-proof" it.

I did pick up a stuck red sub-pixel in the bottom-left over the first 2 days of use, and I have noticed a very slight inconsistency in tone across the screen; the right side being darker than the left. These are minor gripes though, and both will be common defects in any monitor you buy. I've heard the latter disappears over time anyway, but I'd quite happily live with it.

I've only focused on the negatives so far, but I assure you that the LP2475w has far more positives than i'm giving it credit for. It's a sturdily-built, industry standard monitor with a generous wealth of OSD options to fiddle with. If you dont like the colour settings out of the box (and you probably wont), you'll definitely be able to set it up to your liking, given time and patience. Or you could buy a calibrator, and achieve some of the best DeltaE and Black levels possible in LCD technology. As for me, I'm very glad I exhanged my Hyundai W240D-PVA for it, and I think it'll last me for a good couple of years before my next inevitable upgrade (come on SED!).
 
Right then. I've just had a bash at this input (output) lag business. I know there are many professional reviews which have covered this, but I just had to see the difference for myself. I'll post it all here for who-ever's interested :)

Naturally, I ran the "input lag" test at Vanity.DLK:

http://tft.vanity.dk/

Specs:
CPU: Intel Quad Core 6600 @ 2.4Ghz
GPU: Nvidia Geforce 9800GTX

Camera: Sony Cybershot DSC-W55

Compaq S710 CRT: 1280x1024 @ 60hz
Hewlett Packard LP24752 LCD: 1920x1200 @ 60hz

Here are a few sample photos (Compaq on the left, HP on the right):

DSC08349.jpg

DSC08350.jpg

DSC08360.jpg


Here's a comprehensive list of the results (milliseconds only):

Code:
Compaq  HP    Input lag
		
141	110	31
110	79	31
313	297	16
110	94	16
860	829	31
891	860	31
579	547	32
188	157	31
688	657	31
360	329	31
907	875	32
250	219	31
907	891	16
875	844	31
641	610	31
485	454	31
188	157	31
641	610	31
969	938	31
172	141	31
485	454	31
516	500	16
266	250	16
110	79	31
282	250	32
485	454	31
766	735	31
766	750	16
672	641	31
954	938	16
735	704	31
391	360	31
985	969	16
688	657	31
500	469	31
844	813	31
250	219	31
79	47	32
782	750	32
813	797	16
As you can see, I mainly achieved values of 31, 32 and 16; I've no idea if this is a fault in my test method, but they seemed quite consistent reasonable.

Average input lag: 27.75ms

Conclusion:
Not a bad result, although it will account for up to 2 frames per second lag in a game. Slightly faster than the Hazro HZ24W (32ms), but slower than that of the Hyundai 241D-PVA (~20ms). So we're left with an average input lag result that perhaps wont be ideal for a hardcore FPS gamer; for everyone else, however, it'll be more than adequate.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom