I am Oldskool

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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OK guys, time to trigger the old skool feelings again. Remember these?

vbZWFJH.jpg

Bought that in "As new" condition for £7. That is why I wanted the game port on the sound card :)
 

Kurgen

Kurgen

Kurgen

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Blimey game port, id forgotten about them, usb killed all the fun.. serial ports, parallels ports.. I even remember the days when you had cards for all of those, and even the disk controller. I had a full length Disk controller... MFM I think was the type... I wish I was good at modding. and had the time
 

ubersonic

ubersonic

ubersonic

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Awesome build.

Original Sidewinder pads were awesome, so responsive, such a shame they are incompatible with USB-Gameport converters and the USB version of the pad had a much cheaper build quality :(

Out of interest, what made you decide to make a new top for the old block, as opposed to either using old fittings or a new block?
 

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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OK so I crumbled. I tracked the res this morning and it was still in Shanghai yesterday.

TBR0jfV.jpg

I'll just sell it on once it arrives. Shouldn't have any problems shifting it and charging postage on top.

Uber - The holes on the old top were in really bad shape. Using old fittings would mean that the barbs were too big and thus the hose would not have been compatible with the 11/8 fittings. Plus it had three holes, and plugging one would have made it look terrible. I think aesthetics were a lot less important back in those days. I think it was more of a case of "holy crap I have water cooling my PC" than making it look nice.

I also did not want to use a new block because there was a big possibility it would not have fitted. The socket and CPU are tiny and the holes are right next to it. Plus the new top cost me £3 and the Oring stuff was £1.90. So yeah, better to make a new top :)
 

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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First side panel complete. I hate man flu.. Now I am sweating and feeling dizzy AF :(

xWdkL08.jpg

I've also ordered a meter long strip of UV LEDs.

eztT1Q4.jpg

I got them with their own power supply as I am worried I will over load the 300w one I am using.
 

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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Problem - mirror like black case that you shouldn't touch. To power it on, however, you must open the door by pressing here where it says "push".

mRR1vKC.jpg

In order to access the power button hnyar.

cjzGBPI.jpg

The solution, fit an external power button I can put on the desk. Just one issue, it came with no splitters so I had to make my own.

RoyNkfF.jpg

Which then goes to hnyar.

1BtrKmV.jpg

Cool beans :D
 

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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The OCUK stuff arrived and I assembled the res. Not sure I like it really as even when assembled really tight you can still pull the ends off. This means the pump will need to me propped up to stop it pulling the res apart. PITA !

Because of my mistrust I have set up a "faux loop" and am going to run it for a few hours and see if anything leaks out.

PVg5QmY.jpg
 

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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LePhuronn said:
Interested in your test on the res then, one of my pie-in-the-sky builds is planned to use one of those with a D5.

Loving the work as always, you've managed to make garish quite tasteful :D
Click to expand...

haha wait until the UV lights get going. :D

It didn't leak, amazingly. But I would not hang anything from the bottom of it at all. Probably best mounted onto the floor of the case tbh.
 

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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This res. What a piece of crap. Firstly if you pull the ends they come right off and then the brackets? sheesh, I've never seen something so bad.

Last night I figured I would spend some time playing around with the rest of it. The brackets are awful. Truly dire. Firstly the guide hole that the M4 plastic bolt is supposed to go through was tiny so the bolt would not go through it. So I took both brackets to the kitchen and dremeled the holes out so the bolt would fit through. Came back in and the bolts then aim about 2mm out of the hole (I just made them larger, not changed the position). Any way, I go to do up the first one and it gets about 2mm in and then pops and has threaded itself because it's plastic. So the whole bracket falls off. I try the other one and it does exactly the same thing. So I dig around for some M4 metal bolts and start doing one up. As soon as I can let go of the bracket mech and turn the screw a half turn more (so it actually holds the tube and doesn't slide around everywhere and I hear *SNAP*. Yup, bracket snapped in half.

So now I have no way of mounting the res. So I go off to Youtube to try and make sense of it all and the brackets I have are handily left on the table in the video whilst they use clear ones I do not have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nAAGjQHfJM

Probably because they are crap. Not sure what to do now, too sick to care atm (man flu).

Just looked for more videos on Youtube, no one is using the stock brackets. So that is me screwed then.
 

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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Well with some good luck, and having to settle on it sticking out ever so slightly I have it fitted and connected to the rad.

NYwNGQT.jpg

When I feel better I will tackle the mobo and get it looped.
 

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

ALXAndy

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Current state of affairs. As you can see, the next job on the list is wiring the FP. This is why I have printed out the page.

yi4NeWB.jpg

Which reminds me, I installed and played Gunman last night and it was as smooth as butter. Still makes me laugh how it comes up as Half Life in running apps :D OK so here is how the inside is looking right now.

JcotztQ.jpg

I am hoping very much that the Grid+ arrives today so I can hook up all of the fans etc. Lith, this is where your badge lives now mate :)

1eBu13s.jpg

Still left to do.

Make a BP for the sound card.
Design and make two more acrylic panels.
Fit top panel.
Fit Grid+ and then use my Win 10 PC as a mothership to set up all of the fans using CAM, which will then make them remember :)
 
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