Installing a bathroom myself.

And use bottle trap either a standard or shallow on the basin, can save you much grief, if you need to clean trap.

Once had a S trap squeezed in behind a pedestal, impossible to get it apart,ending up removing basin, & pedestal before I gain access to it.

Had tried various methods to unblock it without success.:(
 
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my advice for what its worth
if you are soldering pipes, clean the pipes properly with wire wool (the ends you are soldering) and dont be shy with the flux

if you are using compression joints, dont be shy with the plumbers mate, and dont overtighten the joints

if there is a place to fit a stop valve to make life easier in the future do it
eg to change taps easier or near the cistern in case of an issue with the toilet

its easier to buy a pack of fittings than a couple, check the price (they will get used at some point

ooo
and lastly get a proper pipe cutter
they are cheap enough
 
valerian said:
my advice for what its worth
if you are soldering pipes, clean the pipes properly with wire wool (the ends you are soldering) and dont be shy with the flux

if you are using compression joints, dont be shy with the plumbers mate, and dont overtighten the joints

if there is a place to fit a stop valve to make life easier in the future do it
eg to change taps easier or near the cistern in case of an issue with the toilet

its easier to buy a pack of fittings than a couple, check the price (they will get used at some point

ooo
and lastly get a proper pipe cutter
they are cheap enough
Click to expand...

Don't need to go over board with flux, I just used a artist brush with handle cut down to brush on flux,50p from 'Wilkinsons'.

Steel wool is useful cleaning pipes before fluxing, & heat resisting mat can prevent unnecessary scorching.

Isolating valves certainly make your life easier, over tighten is the biggest cause of problem with compression joints, I find ones with brass olives better to use than copper olives, grips tighter.

Pipe cutter, you might find a 'Autocut' one easier to use, plus it's great for tight access.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Autocut/p11815
 
valerian said:
my advice for what its worth
if you are soldering pipes, clean the pipes properly with wire wool (the ends you are soldering) and dont be shy with the flux

if you are using compression joints, dont be shy with the plumbers mate, and dont overtighten the joints

if there is a place to fit a stop valve to make life easier in the future do it
eg to change taps easier or near the cistern in case of an issue with the toilet

its easier to buy a pack of fittings than a couple, check the price (they will get used at some point

ooo
and lastly get a proper pipe cutter
they are cheap enough
Click to expand...

Don't need to go over board with flux, I just used a artist brush with handle cut down to brush on flux,50p from 'Wilkinsons'.

Steel wool is useful cleaning pipes before fluxing, & heat resisting mat can prevent unnecessary scorching.

Isolating valves certainly make your life easier, over tighten is the biggest cause of problem with compression joints, I find ones with brass olives better to use than copper olives, grips tighter.

Pipe cutter, you might find a 'Autocut' one easier to use, plus it's great for tight access.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Autocut/p11815

No jointing compound is needed on compression fittings, if it's old fitting then PTFT tape.
Plumber Mait, I prefer to use 'Fernox Water Hawk' compound, it's for use on potable drinking water, & used on both hot and cold water pipes.
 
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Thanks for all the tips and information everyone has given, started ripping out some of the bathroom last night, going to be doing more after work tonight, ready to get on with the new install saturday morning! Heres a few pics!



As you can see the bathroom looks pretty ghastly! really old and horrible!




These are the current tiles, just tiled around the bath and sink area, i plan on re-tiling all walls and floor.



screen shot capture

Carpet removed and just started on removing the nasty skirting boards, surprisingly easy to remove with minimal damage to plaster underneath.
 
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Gilly said:
Are you fitting a panel later then?

My mate had to rip his bathroom apart that he'd done himself so a plumber could fix a problem with his pipe that his tap had caused as they'd tiled the bath in.
Click to expand...

That happened at my parents house, in the end it was cheaper and quicker to take a few bricks out of the external wall and get to it that way.
 
First issue i have come across, well not really a issue but more of an annoyance, their has been a leak around the sink and bath area, which went through to the ceiling bellow causing a brown mark which is one of the reasons for the new bathroom, upon removing the carpet i was greeted with wet floorboards that absolutely stank from wet, mold or whatever, stank out the house. Washed the area with disinfectant and left the window open to to try and dry it out as much as i can. The boards dont seem to have rotted at all just got damp and stinky.

Its being covered by 6mm plywood and tiled so i am hoping any remaining smell from them wont be present after they have dried out and been covered!
 
Is it only a couple of boards? If so, for the sake of doing it once, I'd just replace them. Cost is nothing compared to the bathroom, and it protects you from any future issues.
 
Want to have a look under the floorboards in affected area, did a identical job a couple of yeas ago, & there was brown/green mould on the joists & plasterboard.

As already mentioned I would also replace floorboards around affect area, to avoid possible future problems.
 
Just a little update while i have a quick aero and tea break, been up since 6am ripping all of the bathroom out, managed to get all the plumbing re-done to hide all the pipes and wastes under the floor boards, got the bath installed in place have cut into the wall a few inch to set a good seal around the bath and at the moment have siliconed one side of the bath and i am filling in the corner of the bath with morter to get it up to the bath edge and then silicone up to it to get a nice seal.



going to skim over the walls before i tile to get a good level surface.

Plans for tomorrow are to go buy some 6mm ply and lay it in place and look into skimming the wall.
 
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Yep pretty much everyone i talked to told me to fill the bath up when doing the silicone, so i guess 5-6 people all cant be wrong so i did :) only hickup i have had today was when my evil next door neighbour came round moaning that i was banging at 7 am, in her words "its 7 in the *****G morning give it a rest" my girlfriend just said sorry no, and she called her a Barstool

Once i finish the seal and morter it in, going to finish cutting and laying the new floorboards i replaced and then leave it at that today, pretty productive day i think!
 
Just a quick question im filling in on the wall end of the bath and i have laid down some paper to protect the bath a little, but in places this has torn will it be ok to leave the morter on the bare bath while it is setting? or will it stain/damage the acrylic bath? or will it just be a matter of cleaning it off when its dry and be ok?
 
Might scratch acrylic when dry, so best to remove it while wet, then wipe with a damp rag.

I always stick masking tape along edges of bath first, then cover that with paper or a strip of plastic sheet taped in place.
 
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Nightglow said:
Might scratch acrylic when dry, so best to remove it while wet, then wipe with a damp rag.

I always stick masking tape along edges of bath first, then cover that with paper or a strip of plastic sheet taped in place.
Click to expand...

Yea i was being a ***** as i didnt have any masking tape, just been out and bought some, and removed the paper without disturbing the morter and layed out some tape! just waiting for the silicone to go off along the edge of the bath and then im going to morter that side in!

Really enjoying doing it, learning as i go along! just hope it all comes together in the end, even if it does take a month to be fully sorted i have a working toilet and a bath so theirs no rush
 
How heavy are the tiles? Do you mean skimming with plaster ? I'd just put a layer of tile adhesive (cement based) as a skim
 
Simon said:
How heavy are the tiles? Do you mean skimming with plaster ? I'd just put a layer of tile adhesive (cement based) as a skim
Click to expand...

Not that heavy really, yea i meant skimming with plaster, my plumber friend said he would cover all the walls with a bonding thing, and then skim the walls, at the minute i dont think the tiles would stick too well to the crumbly walls, not sure what the stuff bellow the skim is called? unless a bonding agent can be applied and then the tiles would just stick to it?
 
Where are people buying their bathroom fitting? Victoria Plumb have all the bits I need but is their stuff anygood?
 
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