JayGee's Lian Li PC-V3000WX Dual Loop Build
- Thread starter JayGee
- Start date
One aspect of be quiet's Dark Power Pro 12 PSU that appealed to me was that the included cables were all individually sleeved and came with cable combs. What I hadn't appreciated, until just now, was that the included cable combs have been very neatly tailored to how the 24 pin plug is wired up, i.e. the combs make allowance for the fact that four of the pins each have two cables crimped to them by having additional space for those specific runs...
Yeah, they look gorgeous and the sheer heft of them just oozes quality. I also like that the way the pump attaches to the res you're able to orientate the pump such that you can position the cables in the most convient place to hide them (which is kind of necessary given that the power feed is not sleeved).
Soldato
Only potential downside of the waterfall - apart from possibly introducing air into your loop - is that it spilts the loop. It can make it difficult to drain since the coolant cannot/will not flow up the res and backwards through the waterfall. This may not be a problem if you've not got a high point the other side of your loop that also effectively splits it. Just thought I'd mention it as something to be aware of. Guess who needed a second drain port
Nice. I like the way that with the outer cage, there's no central column in the coolant.
Surely you mean "given that the power feed is not sleeved.....yet", right?!
Combs are a bonus. Split as they are, they ought to be installable without de-pinning and hopefully disappear fairly well.
Yeah, had no problem with mine, big as.s caselabs with plenty of ports to open for fast drain.
I had (sat on the shelf now) the other aqau PWM D5s. Weren't that great for cable management with 3-4 connectors on the btm but your's look sweet.
I had (sat on the shelf now) the other aqau PWM D5s. Weren't that great for cable management with 3-4 connectors on the btm but your's look sweet.
Soldato
The extra connectors might have been for some selection of USB, Aquabus (connection to an Aquaero) and a temperature header. Good if you're in that ecosystem. Sometimes they split the power-in and rpm-out connections so you don't overload a motherboard fan header.
I'll see your "plenty of ports to open for fast drain" and raise you a cracked acrylic pipe for instant drain! There's wisdom in carpet-coloured coolant!
I'll see your "plenty of ports to open for fast drain" and raise you a cracked acrylic pipe for instant drain!
There's wisdom in carpet-coloured coolant! In my last build I sleeved the pump cables because placement meant they would otherwise have been an eye sore; but with this build I'll have the ability to feed the cables straight through the back panel and with their placement I'm 99% confident that they'll be out of sight so sleeving won't be a necessity.Surely you mean "given that the power feed is not sleeved.....yet", right?!
I'll see your "plenty of ports to open for fast drain" and raise you a cracked acrylic pipe for instant drain!
Haha, yep, red dye in one build was a really bad idea...
Today is a good day.
This morning I received notification that the Dark Hero that I had on pre-order is shipping.
This afternoon I received notification that the 5950x that I had on pre-order is shipping.
Today is a very good day indeed.
This morning I received notification that the Dark Hero that I had on pre-order is shipping.
This afternoon I received notification that the 5950x that I had on pre-order is shipping.
Today is a very good day indeed.
Soldato
Today is the day you received notification that your motherboard might not even post with the CPU unless you struck lucky on getting one with a very new bios. Do you have any older AMD CPUs you can use temporarily in the board to update it? Failing that, does it support Flashback (push button on the I/O shield)?
It supports flashback.
Edit: reference -> https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-crosshair/rog-crosshair-viii-dark-hero-model/spec/
Edit: reference -> https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-crosshair/rog-crosshair-viii-dark-hero-model/spec/
Last edited:
Soldato
Ah, good choice! Sorry to try and drag you down with me - but forewarned....as they say!
Sorry to try and drag you down with me - but forewarned....as they say!Not a problem. I don't know about you but one of the appeals of building is the problem solving along the way. Starting out with an idea of what you want to achieve and then working through how you accomplish that.Ah, good choice!
A very small, very silly example, from this afternoon, to illustrate that. I dug out the three Noctua fans I want to use for intake at the front of the case for a test fit to see how the cables would route. To have them in the right orientation, i.e. pulling air into the case, the labels on the fans will be visible on the inside of the case (even when spinning because they're on the frame). If I orientate them so the label is the right side up it means the fan cables are on the outside edge where they'd potentially be more obvious; but if I flip the fans to get the cables to the inside edge, out of sight, then I'd have the labels upside-down. Obviously(!) neither is ideal, but it should be clear that having upside-down labels would be a direct afront to any sane person's sensibilities. So, with the orientation decided it was then simply a matter of figuring out how to route the cables between the fans to take them to the other side out of sight. That in turn reduced the length of cable available and therefore limited further options on routing. All of which culminated in figuring out that I need to drill out a pass through in the case. For me that is all part of the fun. Pull together a bunch of kit from a multitude of different manufacturers and suppliers and get it working together both in form and function.
Soldato
I think it depends on your intentions when you start out. If it's a project you expect to be long and involved and partly done for the purpose of making something challenging, yes absolutely. When it's something "simple" you're just trying to get done, the endless layers of fixing one problem to be able to fix another to be able to even start addressing the issue that stopped you making progress in the first place can be..... frustrating. Lately everything seems to fall into the latter category and the sanity required is a limited resource!
Another option for fan stickers upside down is to replace them. Some, I think, have managed to wet them, lift them and reapply (you'd have to check how) but otherwise you can either stick a round black (adjust colour as appropriate) sticker over the top or something with a logo. These days you can probably get some custom printed and cut for you. You certainly can with PCBs as long as you don't mind waiting for them to ship from China.
Can you solder and/or crimp? If so, you could probably make custom length sleeves extensions and/or Y splitters as an alternative solution....not there's anything wrong with drilling a pass-through.
Yeah, that's fair - and it was pretty much my approach with my home server build, it's entirely utilitarian and sits mostly out of sight - a quick build and the issues I encountered with that were frustrations more than fun distractions.
I hadn't considered either of those approaches, but they certainly could have been options. Removing them and rotating them feels like it would have been more faff with a fair chance of leaving things not quite perfect enough though. I'm not quite sure how I feel with covering up the Noctua stickers with something else or nothing - I see pros and cons (with the biggest con that it would force me to be creative (if I went with an alternative design)).
Absolutely, and I will almost certainly be breaking out both my soldering iron (again) and crimpers before this project is done.
Soldato
Sometimes some ideas - even if you don't go with them - can be useful or thought-provoking. For me, that's one of the benefits of this sort of project log. You're right, trying to rotate existing stickers could prove difficult/frustrating/impossible. Design of new stickers is something you're either wired for or not; I'm not. I did recently read about someone getting some goodies from Noctua 
Perhaps if you contacted them and said you wanted to display their logo the right way round on a build, they might send you some spare stickers? You don't ask, you don't get.
I'm eyeing up their 200mm Chromax jobbies for the stealth look. Never liked the 200mm Aerocool fans I had to put in, louder than they should be with an irritating quality to the sound.
If you're considering custom PCBs - and it sort of looks like you should be with the breadboard - you might want to check out this build:
If you're going to be doing much crimping, I can recommend the Engineer PA-09 crimpers and the Knipex 12 40 200 strippers. Both preserve a little sanity with each use
Perhaps if you contacted them and said you wanted to display their logo the right way round on a build, they might send you some spare stickers? You don't ask, you don't get. I'm eyeing up their 200mm Chromax jobbies for the stealth look. Never liked the 200mm Aerocool fans I had to put in, louder than they should be with an irritating quality to the sound.
If you're considering custom PCBs - and it sort of looks like you should be with the breadboard - you might want to check out this build:
First mention: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/posts/32602301
Continuation: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/posts/33464551
Plenty of other interesting stuff in that build besides the PCBs, of course.Continuation: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/posts/33464551
If you're going to be doing much crimping, I can recommend the Engineer PA-09 crimpers and the Knipex 12 40 200 strippers. Both preserve a little sanity with each use
Soldato
The PA-09's only crimp one set of wings at a time - which seems like a lot more hassle than doing both at once. It is....but you can see what you're doing more easily and select different size dies for different size wings. It also seems to do smaller crimps better than the two-at-once kind.
Some pics here https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/posts/30214228 and result on the next page. Have used them since for dupont pins and they work very nicely.
The Knipex let you do repeatable length stripping and that particular model goes down to a minimum of 3mm strip-length which you need for some of the crimp-pins. Other models don't seem to - or at least don't claim to - go down to as small a setting as that.
Both are ....not cheap - but if you have a number of these to do or might do more in the future, it's worth getting a set.
Some pics here https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/posts/30214228 and result on the next page. Have used them since for dupont pins and they work very nicely.
The Knipex let you do repeatable length stripping and that particular model goes down to a minimum of 3mm strip-length which you need for some of the crimp-pins. Other models don't seem to - or at least don't claim to - go down to as small a setting as that.
Both are ....not cheap - but if you have a number of these to do or might do more in the future, it's worth getting a set.