Just dropped a deposit on some M Power - Trackday Project Car

1 or 2 of the pics looks like 19's but the rest do seem to be 18's lol. Also I don't think the door is shut properly hence the funny close line?
 
Got the saggy velour door trim on my M3 at the top of the frame hanging down, anyone any suggestions on what Glue / Silicone to try before I nip to bmw and pick up some of the Butyl tape.
 
Gibbo, who are you insured with? I thought my insurer did track day insurance, as advertised on their site, but it seems they don't now I've enquired. I've got quotes coming out at £280 for 1 day on the GTR, hoping a joint road/track insurer can do it cheaper than that!

edit:

Just had a search and it looks like you're using someone who specialises in specific car manufacturers, I'll have to keep looking!
 
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Gibbo, who are you insured with? I thought my insurer did track day insurance, as advertised on their site, but it seems they don't now I've enquired. I've got quotes coming out at £280 for 1 day on the GTR, hoping a joint road/track insurer can do it cheaper than that!

edit:

Just had a search and it looks like you're using someone who specialises in specific car manufacturers, I'll have to keep looking!

Try classic line car insurance, they do track cover included, £515 per year on 911 :)
 
Cheers, will give them a bell on Monday. Reis quoted me £3.5k for normal insurance plus 4 trackdays. Sky Insurance can do it per trackday for £280 (with 10% excess).
 
Cheers, will give them a bell on Monday. Reis quoted me £3.5k for normal insurance plus 4 trackdays. Sky Insurance can do it per trackday for £280 (with 10% excess).

I was insured with Mannings who only do Aston, TVR and Porsche, they wanted £640 a year with unlimited track day cover including Europe and the ring, so good value.

But as I don't track the 911 any more all my cars are now insured with
http://www.classiclineinsurance.co.uk

911 upto 5 track days UK: £515
M3 with track cover: £380
Jaguar S-Type: £275

They are all classic policies and don't use my NCB but are all capped at 5000 miles per annum which is fine for me. My NCB is not used but protected as I have like 8 years worth. :)
 
There's quite a few missed apex's in the middle section of the track during the faster (est 90-100mph?) right hand corners, is it pushing out wide when turning right or are you just turning in later?

The left handers and the slower 50-60mph corners are all fine though :D
 
There's quite a few missed apex's in the middle section of the track during the faster (est 90-100mph?) right hand corners, is it pushing out wide when turning right or are you just turning in later?

The left handers and the slower 50-60mph corners are all fine though :D

In a car you miss the first one after red gate which is 100+ and keep a set steering lock which naturally brings you to the next. Then try to ride the curb down through craner and then take as much curb at old hair pin then flat to the top of the hill, apex at top then apex for blind turn coppice but don't take the apexs in a car, that's the bikers line. :)
 
Gibbo, what did you buy as RTAB limiters? The Rogue Engineering spacers/Turner Motorsports kit or other?

I've just ordered some new OEM RTAB's and want to fit some limiters but unsure what to go for?

Have you done engine/gearbox mounts?

Neil.
 
Gibbo, what did you buy as RTAB limiters? The Rogue Engineering spacers/Turner Motorsports kit or other?

I've just ordered some new OEM RTAB's and want to fit some limiters but unsure what to go for?

Have you done engine/gearbox mounts?

Neil.


Neil, hope you are well mate, enjoying the Z4?
Yes for the limiters I have Rogue Engineering ones, but both are fine, they are just spacers to prevent un-necessary movement but give a noticeable improvement, cost about £30-£50.

OEM RTAB's with spacers are the best solution and all OEM RTAB's are now the revised CSL ones.

In answer to your question about engine/gearbox mounts:-

photo1-10.jpg~original



New clutch kit, flywheel, engine mounts, gearbox mounts, new springs and knuckle joint for gearbox going in along with all other components refreshed, re-greased on it before going in. I am sticking with OEM as the OEM stuff did 100,000 miles and over 30 track days, they are clearly more than upto the job. :)


Also some additional bling:-

photo2-6.jpg~original



Lightweight aluminium adjustable rear camber arms, upto -4.0, I shall run around -2.00 in the rear and -3.00 up front, these are also so easy to adjust, no more seizing camber bolts.

When my bootfloor is repaired and re-inforced in September these shall go on and every single bush in the rear shall be replaced for new OEM or Lemforder, so that's all suspension, rear subframe and diff bushes. Its all new upfront anyway and with new engine/gearbox mounts this car will drive like it just rolled out from the dealership brand new, just better. :)


Oh and an item people rarely service but should:-

photo3-3.jpg~original


That's the air oil separator located just under the cam cover, it clogs up and causes your engine to use oil, mine is original and after 100,000 miles was a little grubby so I am leaving it to soak in hot soapy water for a few hours. Takes 5 minutes to remove so its a good idea to service it on any engine especially when so easily accessible on the S54, or simply buy a new one, about £25 from dealership. :)
 
Neil, hope you are well mate, enjoying the Z4?
Yes for the limiters I have Rogue Engineering ones, but both are fine, they are just spacers to prevent un-necessary movement but give a noticeable improvement, cost about £30-£50.

OEM RTAB's with spacers are the best solution and all OEM RTAB's are now the revised CSL ones.

When my bootfloor is repaired and re-inforced in September these shall go on and every single bush in the rear shall be replaced for new OEM or Lemforder, so that's all suspension, rear subframe and diff bushes. Its all new upfront anyway and with new engine/gearbox mounts this car will drive like it just rolled out from the dealership brand new, just better. :)

Yeah I'm good thanks, enjoying the car overall but there's a few things that could be improved I feel. Most notably the ride quality over bumpy b-roads is extremely lively to say the least so will sort the RTAB's and get the car geo'd asap with a good check over of all the suspension.
It does seem like the car is sprung a bit weirdly with soft springs on the front and hard ones at the rear make for a fair bit of pitching under acceleration/braking.

Where are you getting your boot floor repaired? The place I'm taking mine for the work does a full on repair scheme with plates etc:

http://www.redish-motorsport.com/E46M3FloorSubframeCrackRepairReinforcement.html

Mine doesn't use any oil at all, none in 2K since I've owned the car :)
They'll also be checking the VANOS and investigating a flat spot I've got between 1-2k which seems to be a Z4M trait as it runs a few different components to the E46 such as the ecu etc.

Neil.
 
Yeah I'm good thanks, enjoying the car overall but there's a few things that could be improved I feel. Most notably the ride quality over bumpy b-roads is extremely lively to say the least so will sort the RTAB's and get the car geo'd asap with a good check over of all the suspension.
It does seem like the car is sprung a bit weirdly with soft springs on the front and hard ones at the rear make for a fair bit of pitching under acceleration/braking.

Where are you getting your boot floor repaired? The place I'm taking mine for the work does a full on repair scheme with plates etc:

http://www.redish-motorsport.com/E46M3FloorSubframeCrackRepairReinforcement.html

Mine doesn't use any oil at all, none in 2K since I've owned the car :)
They'll also be checking the VANOS and investigating a flat spot I've got between 1-2k which seems to be a Z4M trait as it runs a few different components to the E46 such as the ecu etc.

Neil.



Mine uses a bit of oil and the oil separator was a bit cloggy so no doubt why, cleaned it with degreaser and hot water, quite a bit of junk came out, shall also order a new one as for £20 be silly not to.

Yes Redish I know them, they are very good, but my friend is the owner of Mprove and they do the same thing with plates and well its at mates rates. ;)
 
Hi there

We all know how fast a Caterham R500 is, here is one up against my mates 996 GT3:-



GT3 is such an epic car when in the right hands, he is lapping Donny in 1:17-1:18's amongst traffic. Yes the owner of the GT3 can drive, being with him on the road and at Donnington, bit of a nutter. That is also an R500 Caterham, so its not a slow one and is on Avon race series tyre. The GT3 is on slicks, uprated pads as can be heard and power wise about 380ish. :)

Just impresses me so much that a car like the GT3 which is not a bad place to spend your time in on the road is hustling a well driven R500 Caterhams fastest dedicated track car. for me the GT3 has 90% of the Caterhams track performance but is 90% better on the road and in this case cost no more either. :)
 
Hi there

Well new clutch slave finally arrived, so upto now we have done:-
Oil and filter change
New flywheel, clutch kit, fork, bearings, clips, SMG springs, SMG knuckle installed
Fresh gearbox oil added
Fresh hydraulic fluid added
New engine mounts fitted
New gearbox mounts fitted
New air oil separator
New oil cap
New vanos sealing plate

All that had failed in the end was release bearing, clutch had very little wear but flywheel was not to great, but whilst the box was off it made sense to refresh everything which suffers wear and tear.


So to get car back on road get slave cylinder installed and re-run the automated bleeding programme and adaptions and hope all is well as then car is back on the road.



Then I can add this little lot:- :D

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So there you can see slave cylinder, clutch line braided cable and following:-
BMW coolant and distiller water, gonna flush the engine and replace coolant,
Rear trailing arm bushes
Subframe bushes
Loads more bushes for rear, essentially refreshing every rear bush on the car
Centre console, I want cup holders :p
Carbon front grills
Carbon side grills
Plus fit new eibach rear lower ALU camber arms.

As I've got CSL front bumper with carbon splitters and carbon rear diffuser I thought I'd complete the look, especially if I end up getting a carbon roof too. :D

So next week will fit slave cylinder and flush engine coolant, get car back on road, test all is ok and hopefully another track day end of month.

Then in September the boot floor gets re-inforce meant kit welded in and resin injection along with all new rear bushes installed and camber arms. Once done new allignment settings will be:-

Front camber: -3:15
Front castor: +7:45
Front toe: 0:00

Rear camber: -2:15
Rear toe: +0:10 each side


It should be epic on track and for road I just undo the three top mount bolts and push wheels back in which sould reduce front camber to around -2:25 for the road.

That leaves harness bar or cage, this enabled me to have harnesses installed correctly and then I can move to slicks and as I've reinforced the suspension, subframe and new bushes the slicks will be fine as they stress the chassis a lot more.
 
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Surely if your going to slicks it makes complete sense to have a roll-cage fitted? In fact I am surprised you don't have one fitted now
 
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